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I have decided to rebuild the top end,,, Need advice!!!!!
Mechanic up the road told me he would help me out since it is my first time......
I am going with 1.6RR's......
What kind do I get? Do I get self aligning?
What is the stud size?
Guideplates, is there guide plates on there now? do i need them?
Valve Springs....
What kind and size?
Valve seals
what size?
What kind do I get?
Am I missing anything? What can I expect to see performance wise????
Thanks in advance Gentlemen :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Re: Rebuild the top end!!!!!!!!!! (1990CORVETTE)
Get self aligning if you don't want to use guide plates. Either way is fine, your choice. Your stud size should be 3/8, that will be fine for a limited street engine that won't see extreme RPMs. RR choice depends on your budget. Springs? What Vader said. If you're not changing cams, maybe just a slight upgrade while you're replacing them, which you should with the 1.6 RRs. Going with more spring than you need won't gain you anything.
You cant pick valve springs until after youve picked the cam
vader is right on.
Your post didn't say you were replacing the cam, but in my opinion if you don't, you won't see/feel much gain at all after spending a lot of money.
Look, to put some numbers on it, the stock cam (using 89 specs) has a 273/282 lobe, using 1.5 rockers which you have is 409/423. Spending $300 on 1.6 rockers is going to get you to 436/451. Better, but still a pretty small cam.
You will pick up some advantage from the rollers construction and the new ratio, but the real gain will come from another cam.
:cheers:
....You will pick up some advantage from the rollers construction and the new ratio, but the real gain will come from another cam.
:cheers:
Exactly. I was confused about your subject line, then all you mentioned were 1.6 RR's. Thats NOT a top end rebuild, not even close!
You might see a 10-15 chp gain with straight RR upgrade.
Every time I see a post like this, it reminds me of the thinking I had only a year ago. Just replacing RR's is playing games. Save $$ until you're ready to do it right! That means cam, chip, valvetrain componentry, exhaust, and on & on.....while you're at it, port or buy a good an inexpensive set of ported 113 heads. Cost? Thousands.....but when you're done you're done!
There is about 30HP in those heads if ported properly. I offer that service.
Thanks,
Greg Parker
Steadfast Performance
Complete Cylinder Head Services
Flow Bench
703.609.1200
steadfastperformance.com
I don't know what some of these guys are talking about. Did he say anything about changing cams or porting heads? Anyway, if you're valve springs are tired and you have some miles on the motor you can get some performance back by going through the valve train. I would reccomend new lifters, stock replacement springs, new valve stem seals (they're cheap) and if you want to gain a little extra power you can change the 1.5 rockers to a full roller 1.6 such as comp cams pro magnum's. If you go this route I would change the guide plates and push rods. The stud size is 3/8". There are a few types of different stem seals. Mine are from felpro I believe, they are blue with two steel bands around them which hold them tighter to the boss.
Depending on how worn the stuff you are replacing is will great effect how much power your return to the engine. Don't expect alot, it's really a maintenance item.