What would happen if you had the wrong esc on the car.What would it affect :confused: 16052401 - 9624 is on now and the one that I suppose to have is 16126761.for 84 vette.

 

Some people have converted to a later ESC, which is less sensitive. It triggers fewer false knock counts from noiser components than are in an origional flat tappet engine. Roller lifters, roller timing sets, and roller rockers, specifically seem to trigger false counts. There is a "Tech Tip" dealing with the conversion. I don't have reference to the part numbers you listed.

On the TPI... DON'T DO IT !!!

RACE ON!!!

 

So that all it performs is the for the knock count. was there a different between 84 crossfire and newer models with tpi’s. :confused:

 

When I discussed my false knock count issue with Gordon Killebrew at Carlisle he gave me the "upgrade" ESC part number and installing that part on my '88 TPI L98 cured the problem.

I'm not sure if it would be the same setup on your '84 L83 though.

Indeed the ESC module simply monitors the knock sensor and signals the ECM when knock is detected. In '90 the setup was changed so that the knock sensor was tied directly to the ECM.

 

]

The 84 was always a problem for the one year and I notice the upgrade was from 85 to 89.I will try the one I bought for a 84 at least it the one that should be on the car.Im running some what of a came higher comp,and sr torker heads and that not going to help with the knock sensor.Thanks for the reply :D


[Modified by EDMGUY, 2:19 AM 2/10/2004]

 

Installed the upgraded ESC on my 87 with no issues,,,,and she's fine :thumbs:

 

I installed an upgraded ESC for my 85 as described in the Tech Tips, it stopped my false knocks.

 

First, the 1984 ESC is not unique. I dragged out my parts book. The 1984-1986, ESC is part number, 16022621. Possibly it is superceded by the 16126761, you cite. The 16052401 is spec'ed for 1987-1989. It sounds like the "up grade" you should want, is the one you're changing out. Good luck, and...

RACE (Don't swap over to TPI) ON!!!

 

No the number does not match the number for the upgrade listed in other posts.Do a search ESC. so Im not sure what its for?I feel better I bought the correct one for it.Never can be sure :D
Do you still have your knock sensor unplug?Randy

 

I went to C4 "Tips". The article written by 65Z01, does indeed, list a different part number (16038331). The part numbers, I listed, do show in my parts book for the applications, as listed.

Yes. My ESC is plugged in, but I have had the knock sensor unplugged from the ESC, for a couple of years, now.

RACE ON!!!

 

:cheers: Curious!

My Knock sensor platic and the wire plastic disintegrated and became disconnected, I got an ESC FAILURE code.

How do you avoid the codes?

:seeya

:steering:

 

I think he's talking to you CFI-EFI :lol: .But I just tried my new ESC and I haven’t even got the tbi's balance and it sound better. I let it get to operating temperature.
Started to think what CFI-EFI said about disabling the blue wire or was that take the blue pill well anyway pull the wire, pull the negative battery cable and started thinking again about adjusting the time back to 6 deg. ok no problem started the engine and have timing light and yes I pull the brown wire for timing.
start to bring it back to from 10 to 6 deg got close and the engine drop to 0 deg made a grinding sound them jump to 8 then grind back to 0.I shut the engine down hook back up the blue wire knock sensor start engine no grind and adjusted to 6 deg. scared the @#$% out of me.
DO NOT PULL THE BLUE WIRE! ! :eek:

 

Jack,
I never got any codes. Therefore, I had no cause to figure out how to avoid or eliminate them. To respond to your question, I refered to my Helms. It states that a code 43 will be set if the ECM "sees" low voltage for more than 4 seconds with the engine running. The ESC should send 6 volts, minimum, on circuit 485 from terminal "C" of the ESC to terminal "4" of the "white" connector at the ECM. That voltage drops, when system senses knock. The knock sensor merely grounds pin "E" of the ESC, when activated. I removed the wire from pin "E" on the ESC. Since that pin cannot be grounded, the ESC sends a constant voltage to the ECM. Maybe when you had your melt down, circuit 496, from the sensor to the ESC terminal "E" became grounded for a period of time. Grounded, simulates knock, less than 6 volts. Open, no knock, 6+ volts.

Randy,
That old ESC MUST have been screwed up. Unless it was "hearing" knocks at idle, it shouldn't have affected how the engine sounded. The wire I disconnected IS the blue wire. It was connected to terminal "E" on the ESC. I am running a base timing (black/tan wire disconnected for setting) of 14* BTDC. *I've* had no problems. It runs great!

RACE ON!!!