Sorry, I only found it this week. I too am looking for a turbo-to-exhaust v-band. Those shown on that site don't seem to be wide enough for the turbo flange. I really couldn't tell you if there is a difference. Let me know if you find what your looking for.

 

The best thing I've come across is from http://www.cheapturbo.com I called them up and they've got the quick release bands but they are $50 and the extra sideflange thing (flared pipe end) is $25

As for the pic I got my friend to come over and take them, now I've just gotta get on her case about emailing them to me. Should be here pretty quick.

 

any updates? just wondering if ya got any further on the beltless boost project this weekend? keep us posted and tell you friend whos a girls she sucks for keeping us in suspense with the pictures..lol

Chris

 

Well, here's another update for you. I've got the wastegate piping fully welded and the wastegate if mounted in there. I just got my Accel DFI in the mail yesterday but I can't figure out for the life of me where to mount it!! The box is like 6x6x3. Anybody have any suggestions???? PLEASE????

Steps remaining:

1.) Break in Tranny
2.) Install zz9 cam (212/228? low overlap, not ideal, but safer)
3.) Install DFI and reprogram for zz9 cam
4.) Install oil cooler inline with scavage pump
5.) Test for a while without hooking up intake piping(1-2 days or hours depending on my mood) :D
6.) Hook up intake piping and have one heck of a time.
7.) Buy a bigger turbo and have one HECK of a time.


This is my 7 step plan for eternal summer happiness. As for the pictures there was a problem with the camera downloading to the computer. I'm going over to her house tomarrow night to try and figure it out. I'll get something for you guys.

 

here is an idea.... relocate battery to compartment behind passenger seat..now you have plenty of room for DFI Box... :D and have transfered a little weight from the front to the back to asist with the traction issues your going to be fighting at anything over 15% throttle...lol seriously I am going to do this regardless as it free's up some room, and if memory serves correctly, your turbo is mounted rear left drivers side.. might be able to put a mandrel bent pip in there and have a cone filter reside there as well..i think i remember you saying that the filter was crinkled against the mouter mount... also if this is still a problem...talk to Rick (BTF) he made a beautiful motor mount on his passenger side that if replicated on drivers side would eliminate all your fitment issues with the filter, and possible may give you some extra room for anything else that will pop up during your project! worth talking to him I think though for sure!

Chris

 

Battery Relocation sounds like a good idea! Does anyone make a kit??? I hope so.

For the airfilter it wasn't against the motor mount, it was against the cradle bracket that the motor mount sits ontop of. I'd be afraid of weakening the chassy if I did anything to change that.

 

:confused: :confused: :confused:

O.k. I want a DFI too, but I always assumed that since the DFI (gen vii???) was a replacement of the stock computer and not a piggy back, that the DFI could just go on the old computer bracket above the battery (maybe with just a little fabrication of the bracket). 6x6x3 sounds about like the dimensions of my stock computer too, give or take an 1 in the thickness.

 

None of the aftermarket DFI's are replacements for your stock computer. You still need the stock unit to run your guages, automatic trans, etc. I have a FAST unit, but it's about the same size... I couldn't find anywhere to mount it either, so I mounted it in the front of the car down in the well in front of the drivers side front wheel (under the headlight).. I may try to take the dash apart someday and move it under the dash.. If you locate where I did you will need a longer serial cable to reach the passenger compartment..Not the best solution.. but I spend two or three hours trying to find a good place to mount it where the wires will still reach.etc...

 

I was thinking about that but what about the rain from the headlights?? Doesn't it drip on the box then?? How long have you had it up there without any problems?

 

Damn, that sucks. Is the harness long enough to mount it under the dash somewhere?

 

Yes, if you can fit it up there somewhere. I don't think I can and have room for the wires to come across.

 

Actually you might have room under the aluminum cover just below the steering wheel (under the carpeted cover)

I just dropped mine the other day looking for the dimmer wire and I was shocked to see how much room their was. Let me measure tonight and I'll let you know!

:cheers:

 

MN...

hopefully BTF will chime in on the motor mount... he basically replaced the mount and the cradle with a solid plate of thick... i think he said 3/4" 6061 aircrarft aluminum.. he had it bolted to the motor....and had it come up towards the topside of the wheel well, then torched it and bent it flat/horizontal with the ground, and bolted it to the chassis which was still connected to the k member the original mount cradle was connected.. i think his design would actuall be stronger since it was part of the frame.. thisgives a TON of room in the compartment where the old cradle assembly and old mounting bracket was. this should not change any characteristics of handling in any way in my educated opinion. it may however behave more like a solid motor mount which would give you more feeling of what the engine is doing.. i think with a thin ply of very tough rubber (perhaps a small rectangular strip of tire ply between the new mount and the frame where its bolted would cure this if it became a nuisance or annoying. this would also allow for use of a smaller but full square tube Kmember arm to allow even more room for running plumbing to the front of the motor.

as for the battery relocation kit... here is what you'll need...

solder and large copper crimp tube to connect existing battery cables to cable extensions.. a gauge heavier wire then whats used to the battery now as extention cables to avoid voltage drop and maintain good current flow. then just route the cables under the car neatly to the bottom of the passenger side storage compartment.. use two small holes with tight fitting rubber grommets for a tight seal in and run the wires in.. crimp and solder new battery connections on the cable ends and make a battery tray..should be very easy.. I have the boat business here and we have to relocate batteries everyday on boats so the important part is making sure you use the bigger gauge cable, and make good crimps.. we use a torch to heat the copper connector... slide one cable end in and fill with solder while continuing to heat.. once the solder seeps back to the entrance of the cable bring the heat to the open end and continue to fill with solder.... slip the extention end in until the melted solder overflows and cable strands are fully inserted..remove heat hold in place while solder cools...the lay across vice or anvil and give it a few good raps with a big hammer.. they will never come apart and add little to no resistance in the cable..this is important on offshore boats running large electronics so it is proven!! voila complete!! hope this helps!!

Chris

 

Well, Step number 1 got totally hosed up lastnight. I'm really pissed about it. I got the tranny in and the car is all full with new fluids and it won't move!! SO I called the guy that got me the converter and he called the converter place and guess what, they put the wrong stator in it even after they were told specifically what tranny it was going on. So now I get to pull the tranny out and do this all over again. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR Things are put off again. I just want something to work right the first time.


[Modified by mn_vette, 4:27 PM 2/25/2004]