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I recently got an 86 coupe with 70K on it and it failed the emmissions test for high CO. It was running very cold so I replaced the thermostat and on the advice of some friends, the O2 sensor. Now it warms up and seems to run good, but if I go down the highway, after about 5 minutes, the Service Engine light comes on and it is a code 32 which is the EGR sysytem failure. Any ideas? I have a feeling that this is unrelated to the CO problem which was probalby just the cold running.
:confused:
I had this same problem and it turned out to be a crack in a vacuum line. It was one that went from the charcoal can in the front left of the car to the throttle body. start with your EGR valve and trace the lines from it look for cracks or tubing that isnt connected. Some of those pop off really easily.
...or could be the EGR...I don't know where they are on Vettes, but I know on my 97 S-10, its easily accessable, because I had to change it about 8 months ago...forgot the cost??
If that was bad it would be a good reason why you failed the C02 test. The EGR (from my understanding), recirculates exahust back into the intake when at crusing speeds where you don't need a lot of HP. I'm sure the guys on the forum will correct any flaw with that explination, but I think thats the readers digest version.
WELL,,, I had an EGR failure and it turned out to be caused gy a clogged CAT! I replaced the cat and cleaned the EGR and PROBLEM SOLVED! My 85 had 137,000 miles on the engine but I have seen CAT's fail at 50K. If you can rule out the CAT change the EGR and make sure that the EGR sensor is good!
First check the EGR solenoid vacuum & electrical connections that you may have touched when changing the stat.
If all is well there, use the EGR diagnostic method on my site to isolate the problem cause. In your case the EGR temp switch is not signaling the ECM that the EGR is active after the ECM has commanded the EGR valve to open.
Thanks for the tips, I will hopefully get to check it out this afternoon if it warms up a little (need at least two digits in the temperature before I work on the car).
I have an 85 and had EGR problems. with the same code.
Check the solenoid for proper operation. It should be easy following the manual. Then check the EGR valve for proper vacuum diafragm operation. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum input and it shall hold it about 25 secs. If it falls down quickly it is the vacuum part of the egr THAT IS FAILING.
I chabnge my valve and it became good and after a short time I had the code again and it was a failure in the EGR diagnostic switch so I chabged that. Now everything is ok.
OK, today I ported vaccum from the line going to the pressure regulator to the egr valve and started the car, the valve was definately open because I could feel the pipe getting hot. I put a voltmeter on the diagnotic switch and it had battery voltage and did not change to zero.
So I called the dealer and they will have a new switch tomorrow morning for a little over $8. It looks like an easy enough item to get out although the wire looks like it is going to be a pain to reconnect.
I don't know...
Somewhere else here I read that since it came on during an extended drive, it was most likely the valve.
I just changed mine out. Definite diifference in operation between the old and the new in so far as ability to hold vacuum (tested on bench)
Keep us posted! ;) :auto:
I had an EGR problem on my 85 coupe and it turned out to be a clogged EGR valve seat. It was full of carbon. I cleaned it out with a paper clip and some carb cleaner and it was good as new. While you have access to the valve make sure that you take it out and clean it. My idle smoothed out quite a bit after I cleaned the valve.
A faulty EGR switch (the sensor with the green wire in the pipe on the passenger side going into the exhaust manifold) is the #1 reason for a code 32. And by your symptoms, you need to replace the switch. Trust me.
FINAL REPORT
I bought the new switch this morning for $8.88 and installed it. Mechanically it was a piece of cake, the old one came right out, getting the wire connected was another story. The connector ends up down behind the distributor, had to move the cap out of the way and snake a hand down behind. A pain, but done.
Drove the car about 10 minutes up the highway, same place as the other day and NO LIGHT!!!! I don't think this code always means it is the switch, but with the help of the people on the list, I was able to pinpoint it and not just shot gun the solution. Thanks everyone............
:hurray: