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ok, since I am new to vette land (2nd week over ownership ;) ) i have had trouble finding information on intercooler(air/air and air/water) placement on blown C4s. I really dont wanna move the radiator around, and i dont wany the IC blocking the rad anyway.. so I think I have a few options. either dual air/air under the head light area (with scoops under the car) or a single air/water unit mounted SOMEwhere. Any pictures of your guys setups?
Fuel system, any pictures of how youll ran your lines (10an feed, 6an return) where you sumped the tank etc? does the tank have a bladder or anything?
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (JordonMusser)
Jordon,
Baldturbofreak has his I/C tank mounted behind the seats. (by the way Kudos for recognizing a group that is desprate for an LT turbo kit) Go to the post that says "looking for the guy with the big turbo" inside are links to his "work in progress" pic's.
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (JordonMusser)
Fuel system, any pictures of how youll ran your lines (10an feed, 6an return) where you sumped the tank etc? does the tank have a bladder or anything?
I know this isn't exactly the info you were looking for, but just some options to throw at you. Check out what Vette92 and Bruce did with their fuel systems. They ran separate lines. I believe just another 3/8" line using the same stock return line.
1.) ~500HP 1 single intank Walbro 255lph pump (stock replacement)
2.) ~600-700HP 1 single pump w/ boost-a-pump attachment (stock replacement)
3.) ~700-900HP dual Walbro's with another 3/8" line ran to the driver side rail
4.) ~1000+ HP, Single or Dual Aeromotive pumps with a sumped tank.
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (JordonMusser)
I was told by jason at lingenfelter that the stock 3/8 line with dual intank's (zr1 sending unit) and a boost a pump has supported 1100hp TT zr1's that they have done. No mods to the lines at all.
I currently run a aeromotive 450lb/hr shoehorned into the tank with MSD's boost a pump. I'll let you know if I have any trouble with it @1000hp this spring.
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (JordonMusser)
I have two 10an fittings sumped from the bottom of the tank. Each 10an line goes to its own Aeromotive 10001 pump. The primary pump is controlled by an aeromotive automatic transmission which varies its output based upon engine RPM, and the other pump is controlled by an RPM activated MSD switch (which uses the same RPM pills as the MSD ignition box). The secondary aeromotive has a check valve after it so the primary pump can't push fuel back in to the tank. Both lines merge at the back of the car into one 10AN line which runs to the front of the car where there is another y-block that separates it into two 6an lines which go to the back of my fuel rails. The return lines run through an Aeromotive pressure controller and then back to the tank via one 6an line.. I figure this set up should be good for 1500hp+... (both pumps have full-on manual overide switches located between the seat adjusters (I do not have the FX3 option so I have a dished space there).
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (JordonMusser)
I used the intank pump to drain the tank, removed the battery, then I pulled the sending unit assembly from the tank and scooped out the rest of the remaining gas. I then put some water in the tank and removed it by hand until I was satisfied that the gas concentration was too low to catch fire. I then dumped in a few gallons of fresh water in and drilled my holes from the bottom of the tank. Please be careful here as the drill bit can get VERY hot and start a fire if you do not make darn sure that the volatile nature of the fluiid in the tank is appropriately diluted. Then it's really just a matter of sealing the fittings to the tank. I purchased some washers from Earl's here in Indy that have the impregnated o-ring thereby putting a halt to leaks. I can't remember if it's called a stato-seal....or" Make sure that you drill your holes within the confines of the baffle in the tank (you'll see what I mean when you remove the sending unit assembly) so your pickups do not become starved on XLR8-tion...
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (TONYDEE64)
Awesome man, you got the washers straight from russel? looks like ill be ordering some stuff soon. beats pulling the tank out to TIG a fitting on it :-/
I don't know how the inline walbros work, but keep in mind that you do not want to circulate more gas than you have to. For example, if my Aeromotives were allowed to go full blast all of the time they would not only be noisy, but they would empty and refill a full tank every few minutes, and probably burn out my alternator much sooner. This circulation can cavitate the gas and heat it up... This is not good and will promote detonation. All of the above was discussed at great length with the techs at Aeromotive.
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (TONYDEE64)
Dont get me started on aeromotive :-D There pumps fail under anything other than "perfect" conditions. I have had several of there pumps come appart for no other reason they can give me other than "it got too hot". yet I have used walbros on several cars with out a single failure.
Thats why i do NOT like dual walbros and a single stock fuel line. I believe this makes the pumps work pretty hard. with the large 10an line, the pumps will be moving a lot of fuel around (and back into the tank) but hopefully working less hard doing so (less pressure drop across the line).
It would probably be best to run a pump controller and/or turn the 2nd pump on/off with boost(i have done that in the past).. but I prefer my fuel system to be as simple as possible.. less things to fail. I have NEVER hurt a motor(note, the motors in my car have ranged from 500rwhp NA(with nitrous on top of that) motors to 1000+hp turbo motors) and I think its partial because I have a pretty solid fuel system
Re: Intercooler and fuel system questions (JordonMusser)
Well, I'll just have to wait and see what happens with the Aeromotives (money's already spent)....
I remember the Aeromotive tech telling me that I did not want to have the second pump come on "based upon boost". I can't remember exactly what he said but I think it had something to do with boost still being present in the manifold for a brief second off throttle which would cause a temporary rich condition. This condition would also exist while revving the motor without any load). Don't quote me on that but that's kindof what I remember..anyway, I know he talked me out of going the boost referenced route...
Oh, and keeping heat out of the pumps is another good reason to have them staged AND have your primary pump run on a voltage controller.... A huge pump like the A1001 would in fact get very hot (and probably fail) if it continuously went full blast while just driving around town...