<----->What's my problem?????<------>
Secondly, my first thought when this happened was to check the brake booster line which turned out to be fine. It was the first thing I checked even before I posted. I'm not a complete idiot as you would like to think.
I also didn't know I couldn't ask a simple question about the bias spring.
As for dzierke, thank you for not going off on me. A little advice towards how to check these things is greatly appreciated! I thought that was what this place was about. Not ripping other vette guys apart.
:skep: :rant: Okay, I'm done.
if someone gives you a valid suggestion, you are supposed to comment and state "I have checked it". Not ignore and run of on some absurd tangent. That's what bit me more than anything else. Serp belt? come on...
As for my attitude... I have little patience when I am trying to help and all I get is nothing back. It's creates a bad case of :banghead:
There is no reason to throw "Corvette Attitude" into the mix. That is patently absurd. Ask anyone on this forum and they will tell you I am both helpful and informative. Just don't jerk my chain.
the only way you can check a booster is to a) block the vacuum port at the source and see if it stops the drivabilty problems, or b) put a vacuum pump on the booster and see if it leaks.
the sarcasm was running thick, but by that point, my patience with this thread was running very thin.
Thanks, I will definitely try this. :thumbs:
If your brake pedal is harder than usual to me it indicates either the booster of the master cylinder.
The cracks that develop on the booster are difficult to see because they are usually low and on the engine side. Mine was over six inches long. A crack that size will definitely cause a vacuum leak affecting braking and idle.
If it's the master cylinder, you should see signs of brake fluid leaking either outside of or inside the booster. My booster has two nuts easily accessed from the engine compartment and two more on the firewall accessed from inside the car under that dash. Getting to those two is another story all together unless you're young and can bend like a pretzel.
The booster can be changed without disconnecting any hard lines so bleeding the system won't be needed. That's how I did mine.
If it turns out to be the booster, get a metal one to avoid the same problem down the road. Heat seems to be the cause of them cracking.
I saw a metal one for $161 in Mid America catalog.
Jake
[Modified by JAKE, 11:19 PM 3/2/2004]
The under-hood part is easy. The under dash part can be a PITA.
For some really detailed instructions, check the search - "brake booster" - "archived topics" - "c-4 tech". . There are a bunch of how tos, WTF's and generally good info.
One suggestion. Before re-assembly under dash, buy a couple of extra nuts that match yours. I dropped both of mine and one of them is still MIA.












