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I am in the process of installing an Edelbrock High Flo Intake and Runners. While I had everything off I decided to go ahead and change out the water pump. What a pain in the butt. I have changed quite a few water pumps in my day but this one was the worst. At least it is installed so I guess I can stop complaining. My question concerns installing the intake. The OEM intake was leaking oil from both ends ratherly badly and I want to avoid this with the new one. Any hints on installing the intake and keeping the oil in the engine would be appreciated. Thanks for the help. :auto:
Use Great Stuff to seal the ends with, it's black caulking in a can. Also it may haelp to put a few dimples in the block for it to hold, I'm sure someone will explain the best way to do that.
Just clean the head and block surfaces very well with lacquer thinner and a clean cloth (not a red shop rag). Use silicone around the water ports on the head and run a small bead from the water outlets down at an angle to the block/head mating corner. Put a good dab on that corner too. Then put on the gaskets, adding a bit of silicone around the water ports again and down to the block/head corner. Don't use the supplied rubber block surface gaskets. Run a good bead of silicone along the block surface and install the manifold, using the correct torque sequence. Others say to let the silicone setup a bit first, but I put the manifold on right away. Silicone should squish out from the manifold/block area. Use the type of silicone that stinks pretty bad, it seems to work better.
Also, if you're reusing your stock injectors, make sure they don't ground out on the intake, I had to use some washers under my fuel rail to raise them with the Edelbrock intake on my '89.
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Re: Water Pump/Intake Installation (BillWelter)
Just clean the head and block surfaces very well with lacquer thinner and a clean cloth (not a red shop rag). Use silicone around the water ports on the head and run a small bead from the water outlets down at an angle to the block/head mating corner. Put a good dab on that corner too. Then put on the gaskets, adding a bit of silicone around the water ports again and down to the block/head corner. Don't use the supplied rubber block surface gaskets. Run a good bead of silicone along the block surface and install the manifold, using the correct torque sequence. Others say to let the silicone setup a bit first, but I put the manifold on right away. Silicone should squish out from the manifold/block area. Use the type of silicone that stinks pretty bad, it seems to work better.
Yes, don't worry about letting it set up before setting it in place. You can however set it in place, run your bolts just snug and then wait 10-15 minutes before applying final torque. Then DO let it set up overnight afterwards before putting it into service. This will help immensely in effecting a long lasting seal.
Before installing the intake base take some 40 grip sand paper to both the engine lands and those on the bottom of the intake base. This with some dimpling help to assure a good seal for the RTV or whatever you use.
If you didn't toss the "frisbee" from the front of the water pump pulley, do so to gain a little more HP.