I'm pulling my tranny this weekend (A4) out of my 94. Anyone have instructions or tips that would be helpful?

 

Pretty straightfoward pull. If you have an aftermarket intake check for manifold to windshield wiper motor clearance when motor tilts back

 

The higher you can get the car the better. It's probably best to go with 4 jack stands rather than a set ramps to support the rear tires.

1) Get car as high as possible using 6 ton jacks. You'll need a heavy duty jack to creep up the level.

2) if you have the stock exhuast you'll just need to drop the y-pipe, cat, and possibly rear exhaust section

3) using a 5/16" wrench. unscrew the caps holding the U-joint to the differential. Once you've placed the car high just put the car in neutral to rotate the tires to exposed each bolt. (This is why you don't want to use ramps).

3a) Drain tranny fluid!

3b) take the scatter shield off and unbolt the clutch/torque converter from the flywheel/flexplate. Put the car in gear to help hold it if need be.

4) Using a transmission jack support the wieght of the tranny. Un-bolt the tranny to C-Beam (2) an C-Beam to Diff (2)-You may just get away with loosening the diff bolts.

5) Jocky the tranny around using lateral movement and the moving the tranny up and down...remove the drive shaft (This is also the perfect opportunity to get it balance and with new U-joints.

6) [support the engine with another jack] using a wobble end and a 36" extension (ie not quite universal) unbolt the top four bolts to the tranny-engine block. You will have to lower the tranny for access. Keep track of what also bolts on using these bolt. GM decided that these "restricted access" bolts will also have more attached to them.

7) While the Tranny is lowered unbolt the cooling lines(2), kick down cable, dipstick, scatter sheild/starter

8) With both engine and tranny supported un-bolt the last two bolts. You may have to pull a bit. I use a 12" crow bar (actually it's brake tool) to pry tranny and motor apart.

9) I had to use muscles to rock the tranny off the jack and then drag it from underneath the car on a carpet.

whew :boxing

 

As stated above, drain the trans first. If you don't cover the end well as the movement of pulling will cause it to puke fluid. I use old drive shaft yokes to plug the end when I pull one without draining. If not a heavy zip lock bag secured with a zip-tie works pretty well.

 

is mobil 1 synthetic fine ?
or should i use something else
btw- thanks a ton for the info!

 

My tranny builder says to use ATF (as in ford) becuase it get less foamy

 

If he means the old Type F ATF, I disagree, because it does not have the additives that are necessary for the higher pressures and the new clutch materials being used in today's transmissions.

Synthetics are good, but regular Dex III is more than adequate 99 percent of the time.

 

I supported my engine with a bottle jack with a 2x4 on top of it to spread the load out on the oil pan.

The C-beam is tricky to remove, pull it off sideways as much as possible, then forward and slide the front end down between the tranny and tunnel wall. then work it off of the 3rd member.

Also, mark the driveshaft's location in reference to the rear end... that way, if the drivetrain is balanced from the factory, it'll stay that way. Nobody can verify this though.