that's nice....where was it discussed and how was it solved... do YOU remember?which gm cross over... parts.. don't be afraid to add any details< :jester

 

i just came from the general store...ur mention of the relay is part of the interior light delay wiring but is not the part that actives the relay..is is p/n 10098435....timer switch....

my question the timer switch: Can it be removed? :smash:

 

:lurk: ... can the timer switch be replacedand just have the oon off feature???? :banghead:

 

I did do that, but I also have 4 full boxes of parts of my vette or other vettes, I was nto about to go through EVERY SINGLE ONE, to look for a part#.

Now that I have an Idea of WHAT SIZE IT IS I will look around. Besides, what I am also trying to understand is how a relay can be a timer all a relay has is a coil and basically an internal switch, when the coil is not energized the contacts go from 30-87a when energized the contact go from 30-87

 

:iagree: the relay has no part of the timer circuit!!...the timer.. is a device to delay the lights from turning off for about 10 - 20 sec..and above all has no relationship as a relay! the timer switch/device activates the relay!

Can the timing device be removed? the result would be on when doors are open and off when doors are closed

I thank everyone for there input :yesnod:

 

Boy, is my face red or what? I goofed on the relay, but when all else fails, hit the books. I spent two hours with my shop manual (1993 year model) this afternoon and could find no reference to a "timer". Perhaps earlier years had them, I just don't know. What I found is that the CCM (central control module) detects the door opening and sends a signal to the relay to turn the courtesy lights on. In other words, a signal is sent to the DAB (delayed accessory bus) which energizes the relay. And I learned something else. You can run diagnostics in the CCM to test the courtesy light circuit (diagnostic mode 1.4).
With ignition on, you repeatedly press the TRIP/ODO button until "1.4" shows up on the trip monitor area of the cluster. Then you press (cycle) the ENG/MET button until the number "10" shows up in the FIRST TWO numbers of the odometer.This cycles the output from the CCM with "0" being "off" and "1" being "on" every 3 seconds on the LAST digit of the odometer. This cycling will indicate whether the circuitry from the CCM to the relay, the relay itself and the cicuitry from the relay to the bulbs is good. If you can hear the relaying clicking but the bulbs don't light while the diagnostics are cycling when the display indicates "1" there is a good possibilty that the problem lies in the wiring from the relay to the bulbs. In the same instance, if the relay is not cycling, it could be the wiring from the CCM to the relay, the relay itself or in rare instances, the CCM. This from page 8D-9 of my manual.


[Modified by vetteseniorcit, 6:17 PM 3/15/2004]

 

yupper she's a learning experience....i thank you for your time...now then
for model years 85-87
there is a timer delay module pn#10098435..
the module is wired:
"A" White wire goes to all of the lamps
"B" Black is Ground. Shorting White to Black will turn the lights on.
"C" Pink/White is 12 volts from the Ctsy/Clk fuse which is hot all of the time.
"D" 2 White wires come from the Door switches. The switches close when the door is open and provides a ground on the White wire/wires depending on what door is open.
"E" is the Reset signal used by the Delay Module to turn the Module off when you turn the ignition key to on. So the lights go off. You don't need to worry about that wire.

now to replace it: to following has been suggested.....thanks to "Hooked on Vettes"

Primary of relay
Pink/white --ooo--2 White wires
Secondary Thick White wire --- Black..

then to new relay: P/N NC 502( common horn relay)

Pink/white to pin#85
2 White wires to pin#86
Secondary Thick White wire to pin #30
Black to pin #87

Simply put

when the door opens the white wire will ground the primary side of the relay coil, causing the secondary contacts to close, which connects the thk/wht and blk wires to close. " using this method should work because it uses the sames wires that the delay timer use to handle the current for the light bulbs"......

is any body out there willing to add any more info to this topic and/or veritfy the above information?? thank to all :yesnod:


[Modified by korvette4u, 11:10 PM 3/15/2004]

 

well does this solve the problem of the interior light delay module failure? :lurk:

 

Look in Corvette Fever, May 2004, Page 91. Per Chris Petris "The same delay timer is used in Caprices, big Buicks, big Pontiacs, and others". No numbers given. Where it is located in these model cars is anyones guess, so happy hunting :thumbs:

 

with the above info. saves a alot of seeking in junkers . i just eliminated it.. done deal...but thanks for the help.. :cool:

 

The delay module quit in my '84. Strange thing was that the hatch release in the door quit working unless the interior lights were turned on with the headlight switch.

I pulled the cover off the delay module and soldered a jumper from "A" to "D" (the white wires), put the cover back on an plugged it back in. No delay now but the interior lights do work as well as the hatch switch.


[Modified by Lionsden, 6:29 AM 3/16/2004]

 

So how does it feel to have the lights go out when you want them to go out instead of when GM thnks they should go out? :D


[Modified by xs650, 7:54 AM 3/16/2004]

 

First thanks to all that contributed.. lights are now working "AT MY WILL".. there wer two methods discussed in this thread either will work! the relay is the option I choose, merely becuz the appropriate wire carries the current .. where the other method "A" to "D" also works fine.. the current draw it is not that hugh to be concerned..
Special Thaks "Hook on Vettes"...for the relay layout..

:D :D :D :D

 

That was the first car I had with the delay. First few time I would go back out and make sure the lights went off. Of course they did until they quit working altogether.


The power of the forum. :thumbs: