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My car sat for probably a year without having any brake fluid in the reservoir... The other night I hooked up all of the brake lines and bled the brakes starting with the pass rear.. Driver's rear, front pass and then driver front... The rear brakes seem to work great and I am unable to force a wheel to spin when the brake pedal is depressed. The fronts on the other hand "grab" but I am able to spin them if I try real hard.... As I look at the master cylinder it seems to burp when I hit the pedal... I'm guess that I need to remove the master and bleed it... put it in a vice, run some tubes from screw in barbs back to the reservoirs... I'm not sure what this accomplishes (taking te master cylinder off). Is this to place the master at an angle so the bubbles can escape while you are depressing the brake pedal? Or, are my seals shot and it's time for an expensive new master cylinder? Thanks for any input you may be able to provide.....
Tony, I would try bleeding the master on the car. Then hook the lines back up and rebleed the system. I belive these sequence for bleeding the system is RR, RF, LR, LF. Are the lines hooked back up to the master correctly? Hope this helps. Tim
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Re: Master Cylinder Bleeding... (TONYDEE64)
My car sat for probably a year without having any brake fluid in the reservoir... The other night I hooked up all of the brake lines and bled the brakes starting with the pass rear.. Driver's rear, front pass and then driver front... The rear brakes seem to work great and I am unable to force a wheel to spin when the brake pedal is depressed. The fronts on the other hand "grab" but I am able to spin them if I try real hard.... As I look at the master cylinder it seems to burp when I hit the pedal... I'm guess that I need to remove the master and bleed it... put it in a vice, run some tubes from screw in barbs back to the reservoirs... I'm not sure what this accomplishes (taking te master cylinder off). Is this to place the master at an angle so the bubbles can escape while you are depressing the brake pedal? Or, are my seals shot and it's time for an expensive new master cylinder? Thanks for any input you may be able to provide.....
Tony
:cheers: :sad: If it has been a year with no fluid, you may have some corrosion in the bore of the master cylinder. Bench bleeding the mc is, I beleive, to eliminate air that can float arounf as you bleed individual lines
To bleed the MC while on the car, just apply pressure to pedal and crack open the fitting at the MC, repeating as neccessary. Then bleed each line. Be sure to use a flare nut wrench on the fittings to avoid egging the nut.
Thanks guys.....I think I got it...My only concern is that with some serious grunt I can manually move the front wheels after waiting a few seconds after the brake pedal is depressed (is this normal?)... One more pump and they lock up no problem... I did bleed the master cylinder (found the exact 411 in my service manual)... I feel good anough to try it on the road as soon as I get my radiator back from BeCool.... but that's a whole other story...