I am thinking I need to replace the water pump on my '85 L98. The leak began a few weeks ago. It leaked as the engine was coming to tempand then would stop once at temperature. Yesterday, however, it hemorrhaged like crazy and I wound up taking her back home and driving my back up car. I think the seal has failed, thereby necessitating water pump replacement per the service manual. Can anyone recommend a good, fairly inexpensive water pump? I found an ASC water pump at AutoZone for under $50. Anyone have experience with this one? I have also located an Edelbrock pump for $69.00 through Corvette Central.
Additionally, every book I've consulted states that the A/C compressor needs to be removed. Is it possible to remove the water pump without removing the A/C compressor? The pictures in the manuals don't seem to help and looking at the engine leads to believe this is necessary. Any advice would be appreciated!! :crazy:

 

Well doing a water pump on an '88 Vette is one of the most complicated chores I've found yet, so ge ready.:smash:

I had to lift the A/C compressor out of the way, remove the AIR diverter valve and remove the AIR tube that runs across the front, remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail, remove the A/C compressor mounting brackets, and finally (I think) remove the water pump.

Before installing a new pump, put some Permatex on the mounting bolt threads as they penitrate the water jacket.

BTW, I picked up a Stewart pump from a local shop as it was rated as a quality unit.

 

I just did the pump on my 85..... Prepare for about 3-4 hours down time buffer..

(1)Yes, the a/c definitely has to be removed...

(2) The autozone waterpump worked perfectly, and lifetime warranty; $34.00

(3) in order to get the A/C off the A/C-Tensioner Bracket, be sure to have a set of vave cover gaskets on hand. You cant get the long bolt out of the rear of the A/C compressor without removing it. (If you do, you'll NEVER get it back in).

(4) Small diameter vacuum hose, tees and couplings for the egr hard plastic tubing that you most likely break when removing from the diverter valves/soleniods.

(5) Metric line wrenches (cant remember size; 17MM?) You will need these because the fuel lines run through the A/C-tensioner bracket which shares the water pump right side bolts. (Be careful not to lose the O-Rings on the end of the fuel line flares!)

(6) Viola! now unbolt water pump right side, remove heater hose fitting, put fitting in new pump; Reverse procedure

(7) Remember, anything that appears to be a "typical" job on a vette is anything but!

Hope this was helpful! Good luck!
:thumbs:


[Modified by Jloshotz, 12:34 AM 3/21/2004]

 

Don't remove the A/C.. just pull it and its bracket outta the way in one piece.

As stated, depressurize fuel system, disconnect fuel lines at rail, remove the air accumulator bracket, and take off the belt tensioner... There are 4 nuts and one bolt you'll need to remove to get the A/C+bracket loose...

Two are what go onto the left side water pump studs... two are the brace that goes to a passenger side header bolt...and there's one tricky one... It's underneath the center of the a/c pulley. You'll need either an open ended wrench or a T-40 torx bit to loosen it. Undo the 4 nuts first.. and unscrew this bolt as you pull the a/c & bracket forward until this bolt is unthreaded from the cylinder head. The bolt head is cut out on one side to clear the a/c pulley.. but the a/c pulley has to be turned to the right location, so the notch on the pulley is at the bolt head. You'll see what I mean when you get it out. It's a stretch, but the whole assembly will slide off those left side waterpump studs.

Also, before you put the new pump on... pull the backing plate off it and reseal it to be sure. I didn't do this on mine, I slapped the new one in there and it leaked under presssure, so i had to tear it all apart again and redo it. :smash:

 

Also, the orings on your fuel lines will be shot. You pretty much have to replace them everytime you disconnect the lines.

Go here for the sizes: you can pick em up at any local hardware store.

http://webpages.charter.net/khasting...uelsystem.html

 

Hell yeah :iagree: I forgot all about that bolt....almost impossible to get this bolt out unless you know how.... :banghead: .Good looking out. I just took my A/C pump off because i figured it would be easier to see; it was. (My cover gasket was leaking anyway so i got permadry gaskets; Nice)

[QUOTE]Also, the orings on your fuel lines will be shot. You pretty much have to replace them everytime you disconnect the lines.[/QOUTE]

Got lucky with mine I guess... :cheers:

 

Ya dont forget the torx bolt under the A/C compressor. it is well hidden but with a extenshion and a ratchet it will come out pretty easy. Autozone has a lifetime pump that has been working for me for close to 80000miles although i did change the pump two times prior. Their quality became better with time. I found out AC delco parts are not what their cracked up to be. Also check the front timing chain seal for leaks. Since you have all that stuff off, might as well put a new seal on the timing chain cover. Its a little more work but I noticed it on a pump change and changed out the timing cover seal the next time i changed out the pump. Good Luck :smash:

 

Question Central Coaster: When you indicate to move the compressor and it's bracket out of the way, does this still mean I need to evacuate the A/C system? I assume this is true. Please advise.

Sorry if the question seems so basic, but I like to have all ducks in a row before tackling projects such as this....especially for the first time. :eek:

Thanks again everyone!! :auto: :hurray:

 

No, you can leave th A/C lines connected; no need to evac

 

I have heard really bad things about the ASC water pumps - it might depend on the application but I had a friend who had three go bad (and he kept replacing them with ASC at Autozone because of the lifetime warranty). I'm replacing mine this weekend but this is a job I only want to do once so I'm avoiding the ASC pumps. I found a lifetime Carter pump at Advance that I'm putting in. (Advance also sells the ASC water pumps, the Carter is a little more dough) I would lean toward the edelbrock - check out Jeg's Pricing though.
Just my $.02
Joe

 

Yeah, got my new water pump at Kragen Auto Parts for $39.00. Works great! Like most of that accessory stuff, those big buck units are just a waste of money.

For example, you can buy a new ignition module for my '87 for $11.95 for the generic brand, $22.00 for a Stewart-Warner or $66.00 for a Stewart-Warner NASCAR "Select". Since Kragen was out of the first two and I didn't want to drive all over town with my car running like crap, I upped for the $66 NASCAR Select. I saw no difference in looks, performance or anything else at all over the standard Delco that's been in the car since 1987.

Also, you can pay $20 for a new Stewart-Warner distributor cap or $49.95 for an Accel brand. Believe me, there's no performance or longevity difference at all! I say this with some expertise because the same scenario happened with the distributor cap as did the ignition module. Maybe I should try another Auto Parts store first, ha.

BIG JIM

BIG JIM

 

I've learned to not go cheap on ignition parts. Nothing is worse than putting a part in, assuming it works, then having to tear down again. In fact, I'm done with cheap parts entirely. Besides, rockauto has AcDelco parts and quality oem replacements for the same price as the bargain part at kragen or AZ.

Lifetime warranty is a nice thought, but having to replace it several times because the part won't last makes it not worth it, IMO.

Golden, no need to evac the AC system. It will clear the waterpump bolts, just takes some effort. You will be moving the ac compressor and its bracket as one piece... don't try to seperate them.

Remove the 9/16" header bolt that holds the rear bracket on.. loosen the metric bolt that holds it to the compressor (this wont come out/doesn't need to come out, the hard lines are in the way.)

That damn torx bolt on bottom, the two waterpump nuts, and the belt tensioner bolt. That's it.. as far as the a/c + bracket goes.

 

Just a quick update and some interesting things I found out about my car:

Removal is complete. Had a bit of trouble with the heater tee to water pump hose, but finally was able to coax it out. Since I have to stop for the night (dinner w/ in-laws to celebrate my spouse's b-day), I moved the a/c compressor to it's general location and reconnected the fuel lines. I was surprised by the amount of fuel that came out of the tubes. Anyway, I am going to finish up tomorrow.

Anyway, the problem bolt that everyone has been complaining about on the lower center of the a/c compressor came out quite easily. I found using an open end 1/2 inch wrench and working from the driver side of the car helped with viewing and working that bolt.

Interestingly enough, the bracket some of you spoke of from the a/c compressor to a header bolt on the passenger side was not present in my car. I only had to loosen the challenge bolt on the compressor and the two nuts on the water pump stud. The compressor and bracket then moved as a unit fabulously.

Incidently, where are the engine block drain plugs? I still have coolant in the engine and I figure I may as well get all of it. Could the knock sensor on the passenger side serve that purpose? Is there one on the driver's side as well?The stuff in the radiator looked a bit dirty, so i am not going to reuse it. Please advise.

Thanks again for the help guys!! I will never hesitate to ask for advice from this forum regarding my 'Vette(s).

[Modified by Golden85, 4:17 PM 3/26/2004]


[Modified by Golden85, 4:18 PM 3/26/2004]

 

To flush the coolant system, take out the thermostat first... Then stick a garden hose in the lower rad hose, upper hose, one of the waterpump holes (while covering the other hole.) Just keep switching it back and forth to blast the crap out in every direction.

The knock sensor on the passenger side is probably the lowest coolant point on the block.. so drain that out afterwards... and fill the system with distilled water and antifreeze, 50/50 or 60/40.

 

The knock sensor screws into what was (precomputer) the block drain hole. There is one on either side of the engine.

RACE ON!!!

 

Well, it's done....after about 9 hours worth of work. Yes I took my time, but I also pulled the throttle body and cleaned 19 years of crud off of it and did the turkey baster method on the power steering. No leaks now.....BUT

I now have a check engine light glowing (will check code tomorrow....need to rest now) and the fan now runs full time. Could these be related? Otherwise, everything is running well.

Thanks again guys!!