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Near the end of last season, I saw that I was getting a drip of oil from in front of the oil pan. So over the winter I changed the oil pan gasket according to the manual instructions. Lo and behold when I started it and ran it to temp, I had more of a leak than before. So someone told me to use black rtv in the valleys on both sides of the gasket...(its the formed rubber one). So I did that and now I still have the leak. The leak is at the lowest part of the valley in the front. I can actually see it oozing out.
I know that it is the oil pan, because I can see with a mirror that the front cover, crank hub etc is dry as a bone.
Strick...if you're reading this, I know that you changed your oil pan gasket.
What kind of luck did you have, and if successful, what did you use.
I'm about ready to Permatex Gasket Maker the whole @&!!$$ thing. :banghead:
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Re: Frustrated a-plenty (tred95)
I rebuilt an 81 engine a rew years back and used this tip: The information I had states that many oil pans have "flared" holes. The article suggested that you use a small ball peen hammer to flatten the holes (of course this is with the pan off the car, all material cleaned off of it first). Place the flange on the flat anvil portion of your vise and tap it from above and feel with your finger to see that it is flat with no ridge around it. The article suggested a stock Chevy cork gasket that is coated with ordinary grease on both sides and then torque to factory specs ( I recall it was in "inch pounds" and did not seem to be as tight as if I had just cinched them down real hard like you would normally do). I did this and had zero oil pan leaks. :beatdeadhorse: (love this new icon) I guess this one would apply too: :nonod: :smiliedrool: !
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Re: Frustrated a-plenty (tred95)
I used the Felpro one piece (when I did it in the car) and it recommends no sealer. Apparently it has just slipped out of place when you were putting the pan up. It is a bit of a PITA to do with the engine in. Did you raise your engine to get more room? It's doable w/o raising it but not worth the hassle!
I did it the same way but I used RTV where the GM shop manual said to, in the "front corners where the cover meets the case and where the rear seal retainer meets the case before installing the oil pan gasket." The picture showed sealant applied in the 4 corners on the block.
It's also one of the few things I've actually used the manual's torque specs for. In case you need the specs, it shows 100lb/in for the bolts and 200lb/in for the nuts that go on the studs.
No leaks here, but it was a royal pita trying to keep the gasket where it needed to be without the motor raised. If I ever do it again, I'm going to raise it up a bit.
o.k., thanks everyone. I ordered the Fel-Pro set from Summit yesterday. I'm going to try that next, probably next weekend.
Yes, I do raise the engine to clear that front main cap. I jack up the two motor mount studs that come thru the bottom of the brackets off the front crossmember. I get about an inch raise, but you still have to be REAL careful that nothing gets bumped out of position.
Does the Fel-Pro set come with any instructions about sealing, etc.?
Thanks again,
Pete
I used the one piece rubber gasket with steel core from SCE. It's got grommets to prevent over tightening. You install it dry, and it does not leak.
Now mine just leaks around the crankshaft seal. Even with a brand new hub and OEM pre-lubricated GM seal, it sitll leaks. I fought that leak 4 times before I just gave up. I've got it from a major leak to 1 or 2 drips every few days, so I'm happy with that.