Cam Timing vs Spark Timing
Because of the issues i'm having with my LT4 with hotcam, I have come to the conclusion that people saying i put the cam in a tooth off because I'm having to add lots of timing in the programming are nuts. Cam timing is different... it is the physical timing of the vales opening/closing. If this was off by one tooth (approx 5-7 degrees maybe), the engine would NOT run right at all and could possibly have valves smashing into your pistons. Timing of the spark as controlled by the computer is a totally different. This determines when the A/F is ignited with the valves closing/opening at the exact same time everytime.
You can't change the phsysical timing of the valves with the computer (at least in a non-VTEC engine). SOOOO..... once again, I'm positive I put my engine back together correctly and that is not an issue at all. I wouldn't miss something like that, especially after all the work I've done to this car and the '94.
The engine runs, and it runs well.... just not extremely well like i was hoping, but then again it doesn't act like a finely tuned machine because it isn't any more. This completely boils down to tuning.
:rant:
[Modified by GlockLT4, 3:39 PM 4/7/2004]
As I'm sure you know, cam timing can make a difference in performance; you can move the torque peak up/down by offsetting the valve events timing. There is a table on my site taken from an old mag. article on an L98 buildup which shows the effects of cam offset on 1/4mile performance.
Maybe a few degrees of offset would "wake up" your new cam??
As I'm sure you know, cam timing can make a difference in performance; you can move the torque peak up/down by offsetting the valve events timing. There is a table on my site taken from an old mag. article on an L98 buildup which shows the effects of cam offset on 1/4mile performance.
Maybe a few degrees of offset would "wake up" your new cam??
[Modified by GlockLT4, 3:55 PM 4/7/2004]
first, an engine will actually run decently with it being a tooth off on the cam timing. i know because i've seen it happen. i've fixed this on cars where people thought it was weak, but didn't really know why. it would still idle and drive fine. especially if it's retarded a tooth, it can be difficult to tell. advanced a tooth and it will detonate easily and be further down on power, so it's more obvious.
second, the LTx is in a completely different ball game, since the ignition timing is indexed off the cam. so if the cam is one tooth off, say retarded the 10 degrees or whatever it is, suddenly now you have the double whammy of both the cam timing and the ignition timing being off. that's just a function of how the optispark is being driven, and the fact that the ecm uses the opti trigger for ignition timing.
10 degrees isn't really enough to cause serious, obvious problems, but it's enough to cause power loss and other quirks. i think a tooth off might be more than that, though. let me look for some pics of the LT4 timing chain set...
ok, ya, one tooth is 20 degrees. a cam retarded 20 degrees isn't actually that bad, you can run it on desktop dyno to get an idea for that. but if the timing were retarded 20 degrees, you'd lose a lot of power. probably more than what you're seeing, so maybe it's not a cam install problem, but it's free to check by just putting a dial gauge on the pushrod.
but if you're putting in something like 45-50 degrees of advance at WOT, that's a pretty good indicator that the ignition timing is much further retarded than you think. it's possible there's another cause, but the timing/cam issue seems the most likely/probable one.
i can't remember how much timing you were putting in, was it that much? no, it was less, right?
-michael
anyone have a pic of one to verify?
-michael
And yes, I agree that both cam timing off and spark timing off would pile up against itself.
[Modified by GlockLT4, 4:03 PM 4/7/2004]
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm
of course, in order to know the crank angle you'll need to take off the bellhousing front cover so you can see the teeth on the flywheel, and find tdc, then figure on 2.35 degrees per tooth of movement.
basically, as you turn the engine by hand, the dial gauge should show .050" of lift as you get right to TDC, with the HOT cam. if it's more than about 5 degrees (2 teeth on the flywheel) off, there's a good chance the cam is in wrong.
it's simpler than i made it sound, the hard part is just marking TDC correctly on the flywheel relative to the bellhousing. if you buy a piston stop then it's really easy.
-michael
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
And yes, I agree that both cam timing off and spark timing off would pile up against itself.
[Modified by GlockLT4, 4:03 PM 4/7/2004]
Jake
See the tables above for an example. The first one i posted is what i just loaded in the computer and I'm going to try tonight if i ever get home from work and if it stops raining.
[Modified by GlockLT4, 5:28 PM 4/7/2004]
See the tables above for an example. The first one i posted is what i just loaded in the computer and I'm going to try tonight if i ever get home from work and if it stops raining.
[Modified by GlockLT4, 5:28 PM 4/7/2004]
I KNOW that's can't be right. I posted about it but never received an explanation other than Diacom Plus was having a mental breakdown.
I can only suspect that I made the WOT blast before the engine went into closed loop and that somehow effected the ignition timing Diacom was reporting. I was only getting .9 (point nine) degrees of knock retard at that point so I know the engine wasn't detonating.
Jake
A. Take it to a dyno
B. Take it to the track
C. Rip the timing cover back off and double check your timing marks.
Do you remember when I was having some strange problems over a year ago? It turns out that I had somehow managed to put the cam in out of time. Since opti only goes on ONE way it was off by exactly as much as the cam was. The car started and ran fairly well. I did have some bizarre issues with starting it when hot, etc. Ultimately the car still felt pretty quick to me though.
I didn't know for sure something was wrong until I took it out to the track. My car which had run 12's was stuck in the 14's. Now I suck as a driver but even I can't make a 14 second car out of a 12 second car without trying.
I KNOW that's can't be right. I posted about it but never received an explanation other than Diacom Plus was having a mental breakdown.
did it only happen that one time, or is it consistent?
-michael
I just went back and checked a couple of other traces I'd saved and they show the same thing, and ONE of them was done in closed loop mode; so that kills that theory.
The extremely high timing readings are in "SPARK ADVANCE RELATIVE TO TDC" column, but SPARK ADVANCE RELATIVE TO REF" stays in the low to mid 30s and only goes as high as 40 degrees at about 5000 RPMs and above.
Crazy!
Jake
[Modified by JAKE, 9:05 PM 4/8/2004]
I KNOW that's can't be right. I posted about it but never received an explanation other than Diacom Plus was having a mental breakdown.
-michael










