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I installed my C5 brakes yesterday and I am not satisfied with my brake feel. it is mainly how it feels when i press down on the pedal. For the first inch or so it is really soft and requires very little effort and then it gets hard. I only bled the front brakes as it was the only space for air to get in (i did not run the MC dry). The car was also doing this before the C5 conversion so i dont think it has to do with that but i would really like a firm pedal initially. any suggestions?
im thinking it is just the rod in the brake booster needs adjusting...the car stops fine and it seems like it is less effort than with the C4 brakes but it is just that initial feel where the pedal does not do anything until you press it about and inch or so.
My brake booster cracked a few months back so I had to replace it.
I had the same pedal feel for the first maybe half an inch or so. I tried adjusting the brake booster rod by screwing it, but no luck.
I ended up placing a thin, small round washer between the master cylinder and the booster, right where the rod enters the master cylinder's little recess hole.
This cured it. If you do what I did, just make sure that you don't put a washer/shim that is too thick or the brakes will drag causing accelerated pad/rotor wear/heat.
My brake booster cracked a few months back so I had to replace it.
I had the same pedal feel for the first maybe half an inch or so. I tried adjusting the brake booster rod by screwing it, but no luck.
I ended up placing a thin, small round washer between the rod and the booster, right where the rod enters the booster's little recess hole.
This cured it. If you do what I did, just make sure that you don't put a washer/shim that is too thick or the brakes will drag causing accelerated pad/rotor wear/heat.
i think i will try to adjust the rod first...in order to access it do i just unbolt the M/C from the booster and i should see the adjustment rod? thanks
My brake booster cracked a few months back so I had to replace it.
I had the same pedal feel for the first maybe half an inch or so. I tried adjusting the brake booster rod by screwing it, but no luck.
I ended up placing a thin, small round washer between the rod and the booster, right where the rod enters the booster's little recess hole.
This cured it. If you do what I did, just make sure that you don't put a washer/shim that is too thick or the brakes will drag causing accelerated pad/rotor wear/heat.
i think i will try to adjust the rod first...in order to access it do i just unbolt the M/C from the booster and i should see the adjustment rod? thanks
NO, THAT'S NOT RIGHT!!!!!!!! Wow, did I have brain lock.
I put the washer between the master cylinder and the booster in the little recess in the MASTER CYLINDER.
I'm going back to my original response and make the needed correction.
I removed the master cylinder - without disconnecting the lines - and tried making the adjustment to the booster there. Didn't work for me. It just turned and turned but the length didn't change.
So I first installed three washers between the master clyinder and booster, but got brake drag; so I took the MC off again and removed one washer; still had drag. So, one more time and removed one more washer, leaving only one in place, and that did the trick.
My brake booster cracked a few months back so I had to replace it.
I had the same pedal feel for the first maybe half an inch or so. I tried adjusting the brake booster rod by screwing it, but no luck.
I ended up placing a thin, small round washer between the rod and the booster, right where the rod enters the booster's little recess hole.
This cured it. If you do what I did, just make sure that you don't put a washer/shim that is too thick or the brakes will drag causing accelerated pad/rotor wear/heat.
i think i will try to adjust the rod first...in order to access it do i just unbolt the M/C from the booster and i should see the adjustment rod? thanks
NO, THAT'S NOT RIGHT!!!!!!!! Wow, did I have brain lock.
I put the washer between the master cylinder and the booster in the little recess in the MASTER CYLINDER.
I'm going back to my original response and make the needed correction.
I removed the master cylinder - without disconnecting the lines - and tried making the adjustment to the booster there. Didn't work for me. It just turned and turned but the length didn't change.
So I first installed three washers between the master clyinder and booster, but got brake drag; so I took the MC off again and removed one washer; still had drag. So, one more time and removed one more washer, leaving only one in place, and that did the trick.
Sorry for the brain lock I had on this issue.
Jake
i have read that you need to clamp the rod in order to turn the bolt to make it longer is that the case? all of this is access by removing the 2 bolts that hold the M/C on the booster right?
I'm noticing the same thing on mine, but I am not really relishing the idea of messing with the brake booster (as I have never done that before and don't wanna %^$ it up)...
Is it just a nuisance, or is it a safety issue?
I'm noticing the same thing on mine, but I am not really relishing the idea of messing with the brake booster (as I have never done that before and don't wanna %^$ it up)...
Is it just a nuisance, or is it a safety issue?
i dont think it is a safety issue...but more of an annoyance when my dads truck feels like it has a firmer pedal because there is no dead spot when you depress the pedal until the brakes start to work