Hi, I tested the FPR as suggested, I pulled the vacuum line turned the key on and even turned over the engine and nothing came out of the regulator or vacuum line. I think I have one or more injector failures. So I move on to removal and testing of injectors.

Are there any opinions about new injectors versus originals sent to Cruzin injector rebuilders. Keep in mind not a race engine very few modification (K&N air filter and upcoming purchase of headers and max flow mufflers)
Thanks,
Tom

 

If one of your injectors is stuck wide open it is probably letting all fuel from the fuel rails flow through it when you stopped cranking. That is probably how you ended up with so much fuel in the engine.

When it comes to new injectors most of the guys have used Ford Mororsport or Accel 24# units with great success. There has been some who complained about problems with the Accel units, but I have yet to see anyone complain about the FMS units. The FMS 24# injectors will work quit well on your 88. Most of the time your vehicle operates in closed loop and the ECM will automatically compensate for the larger injector size. You will experience some richness under the 2 main open loop conditions. That is cold idle and Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The mixtures will be rich then since in both of those conditions the ECM uses preprogrammed tables and not closed loop feedback. It's not an issue for a street car.

For about 1/2 the price of new you can have rich@cruzinperformance rebuild all 9 injectors. This means a bit more down time, but is generally the better option I think. You get back your OE injectors that will perform as good as new and the ECM tables match the injectors perfectly. Cheaper too.

One caveat, the 88's had a recall where some of the original injectors were replaced under warranty due to poor manufacture. If you have an early 88 I'd tend to lean towards new injectors. Call Rich and check with an expert.

If you have an 88 auto, I have been told that you can block off the CSV and use a chip from an 89 auto in your ECM. The 89 chip has a slightly better program which includes cold start enrichment values based upon only 8 injectors. They reprogrammed the chip for 89 and removed the need for the earlier years 9th injector. This does not work for 88 manual cars because the transmissions went from 4+3 to 6 speeds and the tables are too different in the manual cars.

You cannot buy a new CSV, so you either reuse it as is, have it rebuilt, or go the block-off route.


[Modified by Mike_88Z51, 2:51 PM 6/24/2004]

 

Wow, its a good thing that you didnt get it started, you would have wasted the bottom end in real short order. As soon as you get the car to start, turn it off and change the oil again to make sure you dont waste a bearing or lifter.

 

You turn the Key to "on". The pressure builds to 40psi. Once the pump stops the prime process, the press drops back to Zero. This is what happens when an inj gets stuck wide open. A bad FP check valve will do the same. But if one or two injectors get stuck wide open, that won't stop you from starting. Unless it is the 9th inj. (But that one is OK, right?)
To save a bit of time,... pull the plenum and tubes off. (Pretty easy) Instead of pulling the fuel rail off, roll up a paper towel length wise and slide it into the intake holes. Enough so it is under the inj. Turn the key to "on" and let it prime. If any are stuck open, the towel will soak. (Pulling the rail off can be a pain. If you do it w/o tearing the old seals, you are lucky.)
I doubt you have a bad inj. If the whole bank is bad,.. I could see that as a "no start" cause. But give it a try anyway.

 

I was dealing with a similar situation with my 88 and finally took it to a guy that knows more than I do..... He found that a pressure regulating diaphram in the TPI had failed and it flooded my oil pan with fuel....I don't have the car back yet but he's confident that it will be fine now...I'm waiting on a few other parts before it's back though... Motor went back in the car today so I should know soon.. Bad flywheel was making the situation more frustrating...Hopefully all the demons are excorcised now


[Modified by Daffy427, 3:23 AM 6/25/2004]

 

Hi All, I was getting ready to pull plenum to check the injectors. But talked to a friend and he suggested checking the electrical circuit for a ground holding the injector(s) open. I bought a Noid light to test the injector circuit for pulses. I tried an injector on both banks by unplugging the injector and sticking the Noid light on the plug. I turned the key on and it lit up and when I turned the engine over it flashed with each pulse to the injector. It was the same on both injectors. I turned the light both ways in case of polarity and it was the same result. Now what I don't know is it suppose to light up when the key is turned on or only when it receives a pulse? Anybody know because I can't remeber what my friend Bob told me and the note is at work.
Thanks,
Tom


[Modified by tommys88c4, 6:28 AM 6/25/2004]

 

Hi Daffy427,
Glad you found the problem. I tested my FPR and don't think the diaphragm is blown, but am continuing until I find what it is.
Regards,
Tom

 

This NOID tester,... this is an LED light? (Probably,... Like a $5 tester)
This tester has ONLY 2 connections? This thing plugs into the harness in place of an injector?
W/ the key in the ON position,... the light should be off. The light will lite, when the inj is firing. i.e. You are saying your inj's are wide open during the prime. Very strange. You say the light is pulsing during cranking,.. that is telling me the ECM is bad. (Wiring harness is not shorted. The only thing left is the ECM.) In this state,.. you will find that all the inj are spraying fuel during the prime. i.e. Like they are all leaking.

The inj connect has 2 wires. One goes to the ECM fuse. (+12v w/ key = "ON". The other goes to the ECM. If the ECM side is shorted to GND, the lite will be on all the time the key = "ON" (no pulse). If the lite never comes on, the fuse side of the ckt is prolly bad, (can still be a bad ECM).

The ECM failing like this is a very strange failure.

 

When you do the leak test, prime the F rail w/ the inj elec conn's, disconnected. If the inj leaks,.. it is a bad inj.

Try it again w/ the elec conn, connected. Do the Inj's leak?