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If you're planning on running the TPI intake that cam is going to try and make power where you won't be able to use it, all the while killing your low end torque.
EDIT,
I see now that you're planning on running an LT1 intake. That will help a lot but I still think that's way too much cam for a 350. The driveability will be terrible and emissions would pretty much be out of the question.
If you really want a custom cam (which is the way I'd go) you need to get a CompCams catalog. Go to the back of the book - skip the off-the-shelf-grinds- and find the hydraulic rollers lobes that have CRC - Constant Radius of Curvature. These are the hot ticket for a streeable hydraulic roller.
Basically what you'd be getting are the very latest design in aggressive ramps and lots of valve lift without having to resort to long duration to get it. There are two series, 3100 and 3300; the 3100's are more aggressive over the nose and give more valve lift.
Custom grinds don't cost any more and mine was shipped in 48 hours. For you engine my recommendation would be 218/224@.050 for all-around best performance. A longer duration cam may, and I emphasize MAY, give you more maximum HP, but you lose so much down low and the driveability suffers so badly that it's hardly the best choice.
It's been my experience that most guys over-cam their engines - you know, the "bigger is better" syndrome.
Think about it; how often is your engine taken to max RPMs as compared to how often it's in the 2000 range.
Give Joe Overton a call (do a search on camaroz28.com) His cams make the most power with the best driveability. (how about 11 sec 1/4miles with just a cam) He has a Firebird with a 388ci LT1 that runs 9's naturally asperated.
As soon as I get a new set of heads I know who I'm calling!
Their 3100 series lobes are among the most aggressive CompCams offers for a street engine.
Yep, and you better have an excellent valvetrain. I "was" running 33xx series lobes.
Well... those are the lobes in my new cam. I am using the HD valves, titanium retainers, locks, etc, with the 977 springs. How "excellent" does it have to be and what are the consequences?
Their 3100 series lobes are among the most aggressive CompCams offers for a street engine.
Yep, and you better have an excellent valvetrain. I "was" running 33xx series lobes.
Well... those are the lobes in my new cam. I am using the HD valves, titanium retainers, locks, etc, with the 977 springs. How "excellent" does it have to be and what are the consequences?
Mike
In addition to what you have listed I'd run some good...
- non-self aligning, 7/16 stud size, rocker arms
- ARP 7/16 rocker arm studs
- guide plates
- one piece chromemoly pushrods
- CompCams #875 lifters
In addition to what you have listed I'd run some good...
- non-self aligning, 7/16 stud size, rocker arms
- ARP 7/16 rocker arm studs
- guide plates
- one piece chromemoly pushrods
- CompCams #875 lifters
Thanks! I forgot to mention I have all of the those as well. Are the 875 lifters the high revving (R) series lifters? If so, those are the ones I have.
In addition to what you have listed I'd run some good...
- non-self aligning, 7/16 stud size, rocker arms
- ARP 7/16 rocker arm studs
- guide plates
- one piece chromemoly pushrods
- CompCams #875 lifters
Thanks! I forgot to mention I have all of the those as well. Are the 875 lifters the high revving (R) series lifters? If so, those are the ones I have.
Thanks,
Mike
Sounds like you've got it covered then.
I'd just step back on the duration.
Use the 3313 for the intake and 3314 for the exhaust; that'll give you 218/224@.050
At MOST 3192 for the intake and either 3194 or 3315 for the exhaust; that'll give you 224/230@.050.
In addition to what you have listed I'd run some good...
- non-self aligning, 7/16 stud size, rocker arms
- ARP 7/16 rocker arm studs
- guide plates
- one piece chromemoly pushrods
- CompCams #875 lifters
Thanks! I forgot to mention I have all of the those as well. Are the 875 lifters the high revving (R) series lifters? If so, those are the ones I have.
Thanks,
Mike
Sounds like you've got it covered then.
I'd just step back on the duration.
Use the 3313 for the intake and 3314 for the exhaust; that'll give you 218/224@.050
At MOST 3192 for the intake and either 3194 or 3315 for the exhaust; that'll give you 224/230@.050.
Jake
Hi Jake,
I did go with the 3192 for the intake and the 3194 for the exhaust. And it does have 224/230 duration @.050. This is with a 113 lsa.
Still not done with the tune on the 383, but I am hoping for some good numbers. Will post them when I have them.
I tell you what if your looking at this cam you may want to consider TPIS camshafts, I think you would be happier with one of their's over Comp Cams. TPIS is all about custom grind, big streetable power.
I tell you what if your looking at this cam you may want to consider TPIS camshafts, I think you would be happier with one of their's over Comp Cams. TPIS is all about custom grind, big streetable power.
One problem with them is quality control.
I had one of their ZZ9s and had it checked on a computerized cam checker at Dennis Wells' Racing and it was substantially off from the advertised specs. Duration was much shorter than advertised.
I've never had another TPIS cam checked though, but from years of using nothing but CompCams products, they always check right on the specs listed on the timing card.
There are really only two camshaft companies that I trust for grinding a cam: CompCams and Crane.
I've passed emissions with a custom grind comp 230-236 .604-.608 114 lsa with a cat and my tuning in a 383/miniram. Gonna try it with an even bigger cam with a 110 lsa soon, and I think it can be done. No visual test, only the sniffer. I have other pals who I have worked with that have passed without cats and decent sized cams. There are many tricks to pass the sniffer, remember, it's only once a year.