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Well i'm stumped. Just got in the car, fired it up, and it will not idle. It dies as fast as it starts. Doesn't sputter at all, just slows down and dies. I drove it last friday and it worked OK.
It will run if i give light it a little gas to keep the RPM around 1000, but as soon as i remove my foot the engine just slows down and dies.
Sounds like a sleepy IAC. Mine did that awhile ago and I had to use the car so I turned up the idle manually. Next time I got in it was all fine and had to turn down the idle a bit. Don't really know why the IAC went on strike for that short time.
Vaccum leak?
Check hoses that run under the plenum especially-Mine had a nice hole burnt into it that you could'nt see until you physically undid the hose and checked along it. Was melted by (years?) of resting on inlet manifold...Just a thought.
O/wise I agree that IAC may be faulty OR need adjusting...
Wow...I've just had this same problem. Exactly as you describe!
In the short term I re-tuned the base idle to 550 instead of 450. While this improved the idle (stalling) problem it didn't solve it. I can still feel the car idles improperly...if you know what I mean. Also drivability is suffering. It certainly is down on power. It is about time for an ignition tune-up. I changed the wires during the hedder installation but I'll change the cap, bug and plugs this afternoon. Maybe we should check planet alignment or something!
This happened to me once; was AFTER I'd done a check engine code test; the thing would barely idle or die (Was almost like the shorting of the two terminals had cleared stored idle specs) I adjusted the IAC and has been good since (Not a bad thing to do anyway as mine was out a few millivolts); You can find elsewhere the proceedure for this. Also again, CHECK THOROUGHLY for vacuum leaks - a hose may have suddenly burnt thru...
After I finished replacing the left rear wheel hub this afternoon I replaced the distributor cap and bug. Cleared up my idle issues. I found cracks in the cap terminals where the plug wires attach. I didn't install the plugs yet as I wanted a control. I drove her downtown to watch fireworks and had no more stalling or idle issues. I will re-tune the base idle back to 400, IAC and TPS back to base tomorrow as well. My $.02
My base idle drops to needing a help with the foot until it really warms up, every time I jump the ASDl (or whatever) port to test it...Doing so must reset the computer I guess (Either that or I have a rouge Vette!)
I am having the same problem, along with octane rattle on 93 oct gas and I have lost 5 mph on low end in gears 3,4,5,and 10 mph in 6th.
I really messed up and took my baby to a local Mr.Goodwrench who told me beyound a shadow of a doubt the test had showes my car had jumped timing. When I got it back they had replaced a almost new opti spark not tuched the timing chain and charged me $1651.38. After my car had been test driven and returned to me as fixed, still was doing the same thing. I took it right back the next day and a retest showed the ecm had died, with it setting no codes I am hoping this is a fix, Oh by the way do you know any good lawers in Memphis.
I am experiencing an idle problem as well. Mine is a little different...it wants to idle at 1100-1400 RPM. If I turn on the AC it drops to about 850 (where it's supposed to be with AC on?) But when I turn it off it races back up to 11-1400.
Can you r and r the IAC valve? Might this be the problem?
Your Vette is white isn't it, not rouge (red)? Of course there are other colors besides red...but who cares!
Anyways... my very first thought when mine started acting up was cold start injector. BTW those are extremely hard to find if you can find one at all. Recently I changed the coolant temp sensor in the front of the intake which is the sensor that references the cold start injector for the ECM. I only made the change because I was there with another project (hedders). Might be an angle you want to check out.
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
Re: will not idle (DUBYA T)
I am having the same problem, along with octane rattle on 93 oct gas and I have lost 5 mph on low end in gears 3,4,5,and 10 mph in 6th.
I really messed up and took my baby to a local Mr.Goodwrench who told me beyound a shadow of a doubt the test had showes my car had jumped timing. When I got it back they had replaced a almost new opti spark not tuched the timing chain and charged me $1651.38. After my car had been test driven and returned to me as fixed, still was doing the same thing. I took it right back the next day and a retest showed the ecm had died, with it setting no codes I am hoping this is a fix, Oh by the way do you know any good lawers in Memphis.
Better luck to you
Dubyat :mad
Damn! sounds like you got boned big time by Mr. Badwrench. Its a shame that there are dealers that will take advantage of people that way. I hope you get some satisfaction from these creeps.