C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Beam Plate Alternative?

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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 01:13 PM
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Default Beam Plate Alternative?

Has anyone come up with an alternative the the expensive (?) beam plate method of re-installing the C Beam???? It's particularly difficult to re-install the nuts because of c learance issues. Thanks, Jack
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 01:16 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (bigjack)

I've done it enough times that it's getting fairly easy, although it is a tight fit.

All it would take would be a flat piece of metal and some nuts of the correct size, drill some holes and weld.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 01:39 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (bigjack)

beam plates to much more than just make it easier to install.

They actually do what they say they do - they control the torsonal load of power application. Stops the rear wheel from kicking out.

I have them, and would get them again.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (bogus)

probabley a stupid question but couldn't you just weld the original nuts to the c-beam?
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 02:25 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (NUckINg FuTS)

That's a great idea until you strip them out.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 02:45 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (bigjack)

I have just installed the beam plates. They definitly make installtion much easier. I really cant tell much of a differnce though.....Not saying it isn't there or anything maybe my car is too slow to use them...
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 03:00 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (VictorRussell'92)

I have all of the nut and hole Centerline dimensions, Ol'RJ is making two sets, one for each of us right now.

Front Holes = 1.775 Center line with a .510 hole diameter,
hex head across flats = .710”

Rear Holes = 1.460 Center line with a .590 hole diameter, hex head across flats = .820”

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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 03:18 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (ld85)

BYW, If "I" were to make them;

I would take a piece of 1.375 or 1.5" wide X .50" thick CRS and machine a .25 deep slot down the middle for the nut flats, and then slot the middle for the clearance hole, same way,

No welding required and the nuts could drop into the slot.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (ld85)

I have had my beam in and out of my car at least a dozen times in the last two years.

I still can't see how these beam plates would strengthen anything. Can someone explain this to me.....Its a small plate that is sitting on the C-beam. If any flex at all is going to happen, its going to be the c-beam itself, with or without the plates.

I can see how installing the bolts would be easier, but I have done it so many times its a 2 minute ordeal. I did bullet nose the bolts a little to make getting them up through a little easier.

But I call BS on the plates making the car more rigid. Its like putting a patch on a pair of your jean, and saying the entire pant leg is stiffer now. It might be stronger in that one little area, but all the flexing is going to take place in the middle anyways.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 03:42 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (ski_dwn_it)

Hey Jess, the ZFDOC says this;
http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm

BTW, my car does kick out to the right.
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 01:32 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (ld85)

You'd have a damn hard time welding those steel nuts to the aluminum c-beam...
-Jeb
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 02:34 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (bigjack)

I have the beam plates. They were worth the price ($105 in a GP last spring). By the time you finish your design and fabrication of a similar piece, you'll probably spend about the same, if you count your time as worth anything. Just welding a nut to a plate is not going to help you start the thread. The nut has to be somewhat free to allow the threads to mesh. Look carefully at the ZF beam plates, Bill has thought of everything.

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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 03:01 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (Strick)

those are really nice pieces, don't get me wrong. And for the work involved, $105 is a deal I think.

But I picked up an 1/8" piece of scrap steel out of the garage and two metal nuts. Welded them on three sides each and took a hammer to the plate to flatten it back out (I'm not a great welder).

All in all, $2.00 for the grade 8 stainless nuts and about 20 minutes of fab work. I don't know what the specs are, as I just used the C-beam as a template since it was down. The bolts threaded right up (after all, when you install a bolt you tend to turn the bolt and keep the nut stationary) and no problems. I wouldn't do the job without a similar device!

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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 04:27 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (Ramanstud)

those are really nice pieces, don't get me wrong. And for the work involved, $105 is a deal I think.

But I picked up an 1/8" piece of scrap steel out of the garage and two metal nuts. Welded them on three sides each and took a hammer to the plate to flatten it back out (I'm not a great welder).
Yep. Did the same thing here
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 05:14 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (Eric Fischer)

Made my own, nothin fancy, but it holds the nuts and I don't have to get that big wrench up there.
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 05:32 PM
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Default Re: Beam Plate Alternative? (ANTI VENOM)

Wish I had a welder and the knowledge to use it.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 08:58 AM
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I am not a structural engineer, but an engineer and looking at the diagram and the way the torque is applied to the C-beam, there is no way in gods green earth those plates are going to stiffen up the C-beam.

The torque to the beam is going to deflect the middle point of the beam. These clamps are merely on the end, where its already at its stiffest point. They do NOTHING for the center of the beam. Therefore if there is going to be flex, then its going to flex with or without them.

Take a straw, hold it at either end and twist the two ends in either direction. The straw will twist in the middle, not at the ends. That is because the ends are already held and strongest and the torque will transfer to the weakest point, or least supported point, which is the midway between the supports.

Granted a straw is different from the C-beam, but the scenerio of what will happen is the same.

These I am sure are nice for putting the bolts back up through and I give the guy credit for putting the time and effort forth to make them. But I would not buy for a second they make the car stiffer.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
These I am sure are nice for putting the bolts back up through and I give the guy credit for putting the time and effort forth to make them. But I would not buy for a second they make the car stiffer.
I think they are meant to be easier to install and the bolts now have something harder to grip to than the aluminum, at both ends. I could see things getting sloppy if you cant get the nuts tight enough. But is it was a major problem, GM might have started using this same method at some point in the more recent model years,,,,,

Ol'RJ made me a set so I can at least try them!

Keep updating us on your runs!
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
I am not a structural engineer, but an engineer and looking at the diagram and the way the torque is applied to the C-beam, there is no way in gods green earth those plates are going to stiffen up the C-beam.

The torque to the beam is going to deflect the middle point of the beam. These clamps are merely on the end, where its already at its stiffest point. They do NOTHING for the center of the beam. Therefore if there is going to be flex, then its going to flex with or without them.

Take a straw, hold it at either end and twist the two ends in either direction. The straw will twist in the middle, not at the ends. That is because the ends are already held and strongest and the torque will transfer to the weakest point, or least supported point, which is the midway between the supports.

Granted a straw is different from the C-beam, but the scenerio of what will happen is the same.

These I am sure are nice for putting the bolts back up through and I give the guy credit for putting the time and effort forth to make them. But I would not buy for a second they make the car stiffer.

I think you are 100% on the money. I just installed the Beam Plates last week. I can tell you that I do not feel any difference with them. Thank god I had them though cause I was not looking foward to putting that C beam back in without em! Like I said maybe you need a monster of a car to feel the difference but my ol ride is just the same which isn't a bad thing!
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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I didn't notice a difference either, and really wasn't expecting one for the reasons ski pointed out. These differences may or may not be more apparent on a heavily modified car I really dunno. The only reason I bought them was to make C-beam installation easier. It was fairly difficult and slightly bloody getting my big hands with big tools to the top of the beam for removal.
Re-installation was a breeze with the plates.
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