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Im going to install ARP main cap studs instead of my OEM bolts.
This is what I did:
I measured the inside of the caps when torqed down on the block ( using the ARP studs ). Then I mesured the crank and the bearings, all play is within spec.
Then I installed the crank , torqed it all down. The crank turns smooth with no effort.
Do still I need to alging hone anyway? Or should this do?
I have been told in no uncertain terms that when installing ARP studs (to replace bolts) in main caps, align honing is mandatory. That's what the machine shop did for mine.
As a machinist I'll tell you what I do and you can go from there. I dial bore mic the bores with both the studs and the OE bolts, both with and without the bearings. If there is more than .0005" difference between them or they are not concentric (run-out) it get align-honed... In other words usually there is a deviation between the two and it get align honed. Better now than when you have a failure.
-Jeb
what I think is that if all is within spec. Maincap to crank clerance etc when the caps are torqed. The algin honing procedure wount do anything really as they havent got any material to "hone" out? Perhaps I got all this wrong??
perhaps I should say that im going to use a brand new crank.
Generally the biggest issue with main studs and the reason they suggest align honing has little to do with bore diameter (which on a sbc should be between 2.6408" and 2.6415" empty) and more to do with run-out. Take your dial bore guage and check the bore in at least three different places, if all are the same you have a concentric bore; if they aren't then you have an out of round condition that will cause uneven pressure to be placed on the bearings.
-Jeb