Code 33 !!! 1988, Need help from the pro's
I can let it sit for about 20 minutes and start it back up again and it run's fine (No SES) for about 4 minutes, then SES goes on and starts running bad. What else coule it be?? I have seen several other problems that have caused this, but I can't find them on the search anymore. Please help...
Last edited by BigTodd; Jul 17, 2004 at 07:11 PM.
Last edited by skateparkdave; Jul 12, 2004 at 02:40 AM.
Also check the connectors; you might clean them with TV tuner cleaner.
If it still is a problem and you don't have a GM Service Manual, pick up a copy of "Chevy TPI Fuel Injection Swapper's Guide" by John Baechtel for full trouble shooting tables on trouble codes for your '88.



I can let it sit for about 20 minutes and start it back up again and it run's fine (No SES) for about 4 minutes, then SES goes on and starts running bad. What else coule it be?? I have seen several other problems that have caused this, but I can't find them on the search anymore. Please help...

Might pay to invest in an easy lonk or other Scanner. This can help you refine your problem areas and not wind up replacing a lot of expensive parts with no positive results . I know, been there, done that
If you have a scanner, check your Idle Air Control counts. I had a very similar problem and it turned out to be the IAC motor. GM manual minimises this part as part of the problem, but I found my counts were all over the lot even at speed. When I pulled the IAC, it was way out of adjustment and full of carbon.
Installed a new one and car runs great at all speeds. Problems with the IAC can cause problems at all operating speeds
The car ran great for about 2 months then the code 33 started out of the blue, I do have 89,000+ miles on her, so I thought could be the relays, or the MAF.
I will check for vacume leaks, but how drastic would they have to be to set the code?
Does anyone have the wiring diagram of the 88 MAF circuit to trace the voltages, wiring and ground.
What is the best price I can get for scan software for my laptop, It turbo link a good software to use?? Great help so far, please keep the suggestion coming...
You cleaned the MAF wire? This, from my personal experience which is a lot with these. Means you have just killed that MAF. Meaning you can't trust it as a good unit now. That wire is very very sensetive, and I don't think they can be tuched in anyway. Someone back me up on this?? Yes a scan tool would be great however expensive to get up and going. Worth getting if you plan to work on it yourself a lot.
The TPS start at something like .450-.6Volts (I've seen them set this high). THen climb up to around 5 volts. You may not hit 5 volts, but your WOT will have kicked in by that time anyway.
You cut the screens out? Did you do this cleaning and screen cutting before you used it to test the MAF?? Both are things that can cause a MAF to go bad.
You need to see if the ECM is getting the signal fro the MAF. It is not uncommon for the plug to have become loss and not make contact well enough to support the current. This is were a scan tool would help. It would show your grams per second reading from the MAF if you are in fact getting them.
A vac leak will cause unsensored air to enter the engine thus making it go crazy because it has extra air it doesn't know what to do with. The O2 sensor and MAF kinda work together, and against each other. ONe tell the engine how much air goes in the other tells how much leaves. Of course the ECM is try to make both happy. Like two timing. HAHA.
Check the wiring, and I know it's not fun or easy, but you have to do it. Because if it's wiring it doesn't matter how much you replace in parts the wires are still the same. Which means the problem is still there.
Also check the fuse. Make sure it's making good contact and clean. I had my Alt. stop working because the fuse wasn't making good contact.
Makes sense about the vacum leak, O2 vs MAF, I need a to get a scanner hooked up and see what it says.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I replaced the tps and the two relays and problem went away.
Might pay to invest in an easy lonk or other Scanner. This can help you refine your problem areas and not wind up replacing a lot of expensive parts with no positive results . I know, been there, done that
If you have a scanner, check your Idle Air Control counts. I had a very similar problem and it turned out to be the IAC motor. GM manual minimises this part as part of the problem, but I found my counts were all over the lot even at speed. When I pulled the IAC, it was way out of adjustment and full of carbon.
Installed a new one and car runs great at all speeds. Problems with the IAC can cause problems at all operating speeds

I think my input might help you a lot, I also have an 88 and had a code 33, 2 weeks ago. My service engine light would turn on 10 or 15 second's after turning on the car.
It turned out I had a bad MAF sensor in my case, but I read the trouble shooting steps, and it could be A LOT of stuff. MAF, burn off relays, ECM, all included, but it could also be the wiring.
I'll send you the PDF trouble shooting document by email, its very easy to follow and all you need is a test light and a Ohm meter/voltmeter.
Good luck
Ps: The document I'll send you is very easy to follow.




What finally solved theproblem was playing around with the TPS setting. I had it smack dab in the middle of the suggested range (.54 I think), and it had the exact same symptoms that you describe. I had minor intake modifications and true dual long tube header exhaust.
I reset the TPS down to thebottom end of the acceptable range (.48 or so) and VOILA! no more problems.
I guess at .54 volts closed throttle the math just didn't add up for the computer. It figured that there should be more airflow than there actually was for .54 volts. Changed it to .48, and ran like the wind. I made sure that at full throttle the TPS was still reporting full throttle, and it was, read over 4 volts.... alls well
Any other feedback would be helpful.
Decided to check my TPS once again, Hooked it up to the VOM and noticed I did not see any voltage change on the TPS when I went from Idle position to WOT, Hmmmmm, Got my old TPS out and tried it, .54 to 4.89, Went back to the newer TPS and still nothing. Swapped them out and went for a drive, No code 33. Also the tranny seemed to be shifting better, I think the TPS send info to the ECM to set shift points.
I figure if the TPS was dropping to 0 and the MAF had air moving through it it could set the code 33 "High excessive grams of air" because the car thought it was at idle or lower. Well that's my theory until it the code pops back up again. Fingers crossed.


I can't find mine

Scott
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I have the butterflies, the accordian tube and then the K&N FIPK. That's it.
Scott
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Yep, our 90's have speed density with a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor and no MAF (mass air flow) sensor.Big Todd, I know I have MAP and you have MAF but did you ever look close for vacuume and air leaks in and around manifold?.. as they will throw TPS and ECM off. If the MAF or MAP sends ECM a high pressure or high flow signal then the ECM will substitute a fixed value for either and use TPS to control fuel delivery. Vacuume is very important and all lines and fittings should be in good shape and tight.
Last edited by skateparkdave; Jul 18, 2004 at 04:05 AM.
I think my input might help you a lot, I also have an 88 and had a code 33, 2 weeks ago. My service engine light would turn on 10 or 15 second's after turning on the car.
It turned out I had a bad MAF sensor in my case, but I read the trouble shooting steps, and it could be A LOT of stuff. MAF, burn off relays, ECM, all included, but it could also be the wiring.
I'll send you the PDF trouble shooting document by email, its very easy to follow and all you need is a test light and a Ohm meter/voltmeter.
Good luck
Ps: The document I'll send you is very easy to follow.





