if i did put a sb2 in my vette i would drag it and put it on the street... not worried bout emissions i have a hook up at a few places.. if i needed to get a better block .. i could get one from gmpp ..

i'm just throwing around ideas.. i'm not serious about anything now..

another, better option would be a efi big block setup..

i learned that nascar engines get 4 mpg .. ok for drag but not street

i'll probably get a 400cid sb efi... with maybe some N2O :flag

 

The problem with using an SB2 block is that they are only setup for dry sump oiling which poses a major problem with the C4 chassis. Plus a lot of them are short deck (8.3") because the run huge bores and tiny strokes and short rods on some tracks.

The only thing different about using SB2 heads on a standard block is the offset lifters and a really funky head stud setup (the center studs are actually really short and go into the floor of the intake port. Other than that it's pretty easy to do; I've actually built three other ones (including a single 100mm turbo one for a drag Malibu).

Mine will be a little over 12.5:1 compression which I'll run a very conservative spark map on it to run pump gas on the rare occasions I drive it on the street. But most likely I'll just run C12 in it all the time b/c I buy it by the drum. Plus a 5500 stall converter and a 10 pt cage aren't THAT nice on the street, but I will drive it.
-Jeb
PS- Look real close at the plenum on the C/D '95 vette...

 

How much HP do you think you'd get from a 350 just from those heads?

 

cool.

 

I am not entirely sure those heads will mate up to a regular 350...

 

What state are you in? Some, I know, have rather lax emission requirements (Florida for example), but other states, like California, would have a cow.

The Northeastern states are getting like Cali of late. Roving testing systems... all that stuff. And there are still the federal mandates to worry about.

Many of these engines will run hot on unleaded. NASCAR has been testing with unleaded for a few years now, but has not gotten over the heating issues. Hence, they still run leaded racing fuel.

I am just thinking this motor is not necessary the best solution. You can build a 400hp small block for a fraction of the cost of this monster... And have a car that will pass inspection and be drivable.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Per the ebay ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33617

 

Ah, missed that line... oops. I stand corrected.

 

You'd be looking at over 750 hp on a 350" engine... NASCAR engines are 358" but are big bore/short stroke engines; usually 4.160" bore. Here are some of the stuff my "contact" at JGR told me: They run 358" and 14.00:1 compression with solid flat-tappet camshafts. With no restricter plate a Cup motor will make in excess of 825 hp at a stratospheric 9000 rpm. But that's the problem, in order to make these heads work well on the street at useable rpm levels you would need some serious cubes. A small bore engine like a std. 350 block (at 4") would really need to spin to make power whereas a larger motor like a 427/434/450+ will largely rectify the need for huge rpm. Notice I said "huge rpm", because the way I have it figure you will still have to buzz it pretty good even on the big motors to truly take advantage of the heads' capability.

A better and much simpler proposition would be to use a set of 18 degree heads (or similar in 15 degree) like the Brodix 18x's which allow the use of standard 23 degree components (except pistons) thereby cutting costs considerably. You don't have the HUGE flow that the SB2's have, but you have more than enough for major power and still have ports that aren't so damn big you have to buzz it to the moon...

Truthfully the reason I'm building an SB2 is because: A) I thought it would be really cool, and I prefer small blocks to big blocks. B) The heads sorta fell in my lap, so why not do it.
-Jeb

 

There is nothing more cool than a big inch small block turning 7,000 rpm I have been looking to do this for a while. My dream right now is a scott shafroff 472 big dog with sb2.2 heads Efi with two 80mm turbos

The bucks would be in the Pistons. Kinda hard to get 8.5 to 1 stroked and bored pistons with sb2.2 valve clearance.

 

Hey Jeb,
I've looked all around this issue and came to the same conclusion that a world Motown or Dart little M block w 18* or 15* heads like Pro Actions would make real power but only cost about half.
For a guy like me without a shop, I would have to find a local shop that had experience w SB2.2s, and figure they would charge out the Kazoo for working on it, but in road racing, high compression and spinning to the moon for 30 minutes or endurance racing for 3 or 12 or 24 hours produces serious heat and there in lies the gremlins I deal with.
I'm looking at increasing the bore and stroke, lowering the compression and and making it hopefully cooler running for road race. But it is a nice thread.

Dry sumps are a no-no for C4s hunh?
can you expand on that please.

Evan
C4R pics
http://community.webshots.com/user/wavslav

 

The dry sump oilpump and it's huge lines will in no way clear the front crossmember (a stock one at least, a tubular one could be made that might work).

Evan, build you a big bore short stroke motor with 18* heads and let it rip... Easy high rpm power that would be perfect on a road car.
-Jeb

 

OK Jeb, Let's talk about thiis, (sorry to hijack the thread)
Is the wold Motown Block or Dart Little M (Or the GM Sportsman1248-0049) best suited for the big crank, and how big a crank are we talking? if 3.75 is stock for that block, do we go 3.85? 4"? How big a bore 41/8? what displacement are we trying to accomplish? or am I going the wrong way, and are you talking about a Destroker setup?

With the 377 (3.48 crank, 6.2 rods, .020 over short skirt 12:1 JE pistons, is that a 377 or 375?) and 220 cfm Topline AL heads w 66cc CNC chambers. Howe headers

I'm already tapped out for power and spinning 7200 rpm, getting 180*-220* water and 320* oil temps. I have a heat exchanger/oil cooler built into the Howe radiator, and previously only dropped the oil temp 20* w an external Seatrab cooler and dedicated fan in in the previous car. I estimate the power at about 475 hp and same TQ w a Crower Flat solid PN 350 cam.
(The Driveline used to be in a '84 camaro now in an 88 vette)

I had the clearences checked and still get the same oil temp readings for the last 2 season.

I could swap in a roller cam for more power but don't want to build this motor with already high oil temps

Basically I'm running this one till its gone and then looking for a new short block to put under the heads or go 18* or 15* heads and get new headers

I would like 650-750 hp, and run cool. I could live with only spinning 3- 6 grand or so with lots of torque on the bottom.
I was thinking about a big displacement bore and stroke SBC to get POWER without spinning.
I want the motor to stay cool.

Is this realistic and what do you suggest to get 650+ hp as with the least expense for a road race motor?

It may be realistic to have you build the short or long block at this point as well (assuming you take visa of course) we are looking at next Winter if this motor holds out.