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My car doesn't like cold starts. It take a bunch of spins before it catches and when it does catch it sputters for a few seconds. Once started it runs fine, starts easily. I read the service manual and haven't found anything wrong with the list of items the recommend. The fuel system is fine and doesn't bleed down. The ignition is recent (coil/cap/rotor/plugs/wires) The scan tool doesn't show anythting out of the ordinary. I am only really left with grasping at idea, such as rebuild the distributor and changing coolant temp sensor (though it reads fine on diacom)
I unplugged it and the CS injector itself is a brand new NOS part, I probably have 175 miles on it, but I don't think its been fired (I have only started the car up in warm weather)
You can pull the CS injector connector and connect a DMM across it to see if it is getting power on a cold start up. The Tan wire from the CS injector should be at ground potential when firing and show +12 to +13 Vdc when not. If you don't see +12 Vdc on the injector when not firing, check the CINJ/CLU fuse in the auxiliary fuse block located behind the center of the I/P on the multi-use center.
I wouldn't replace the ECM's coolant temp sensor since it is showing correct temp. You might check base timing & dist cap condition as well as that of the plugs & wires.
You can pull the CS injector connector and connect a DMM across it to see if it is getting power on a cold start up. The Tan wire from the CS injector should be at ground potential when firing and show +12 to +13 Vdc when not. If you don't see +12 Vdc on the injector when not firing, check the CINJ/CLU fuse in the auxiliary fuse block located behind the center of the I/P on the multi-use center.
I wouldn't replace the ECM's coolant temp sensor since it is showing correct temp. You might check base timing & dist cap condition as well as that of the plugs & wires.
I played around with the car, I tested the CS circuitry and it is working fine. It initially seem to help but itweas because the motor was out of the garag ein the hot sun, this morning it start like a bag. Splark plugs have 150 miles on them (I tried another set with low miles and same result) and the cap and rotor have 500 miles. Timing is set to 7 degrees. Plugs and wires have low miles maybe 5K mile and the resistance is fine.
An udpate. I put a test light on one of my injectors due a cold start. The ECM isn't pulsing the injector for a 3 or 4 secs, and then it dimly lights the test light for a another couple of seconds before it becomes bright. When it become bright is when the engine satrted to catch and sputter. I have a new ECM and my previous ECM did the same thing, so I don't think that is the problem. I guess I need to figure out exactly what tells the ECM to fire the injectors (I assume the pickup or Ignition module) in the distributor.
The injectors should show a dim light on cranking as the RPM is low and so is the duty cycle.
After the key has been on for two seconds the only source of power to the fuel pump is through the oil pressure switch.
I would think the firing rate on the injectors would depend on RPM and air flow.
Also, if the cold start injector is firing there should be enough fuel to start the engine, though it might die right out if the other injectors are not firing properly.
I wouldn't mess with the dist at this time; I don't think that is the problem source. Have you check base timing with the EST connector open? Try setting it to 8deg BTDC to see if starting improves.
I did some research on the CS injector and it shouldn't affect my starting right now, it triggered by thermister and suposed to work below 35-40 degrees atleast according to the service manual. With a test light on it, it doesn't fire at all.
I did some research on the CS injector and it shouldn't affect my starting right now, it triggered by thermister and suposed to work below 35-40 degrees atleast according to the service manual. With a test light on it, it doesn't fire at all.
After the key has been on for two seconds the only source of power to the fuel pump is through the oil pressure switch.
I think it COULD be the fuel pump relay. The above is incorrect. When the ignition is switched on, the ECM energizes the relay to run the pump for approx 2 seconds. When the engine starts to crank, the pulses from the distributor, signal the ECM that the engine is turning, and it once again it activates the fuel pump relay. The relay is the primary source of power to the fuel pump, in all instances. The oil pressure switch closes when the oil pressure reaches about 4# of oil pressure. The oil pressure switch and the fuel pump relay are wired in parallel. The switch is a "fail safe" for the relay and will provide power to the fuel pump, in case the relay fails. IF the relay has failed, then cranking will be prolonged. The engine will need to crank long enough to build the oil pressure necessary to close the contacts in the switch and send current to the fuel pump. This is one possible cause for an engine that requires extended cranking to start.