C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Question for Brake Bias Spring Users?

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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 07:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
For those who have upgraded to the DRM or equivilent brake bias spring, did you notice any change in pedal effort? I installed my bias spring today, very easy and it actually didn't spill that much fluid. I bled the brakes, I thought I did so thouroughly, I never actually got any air to come out of the bleeders though.

I spent seveal more hours cleaning up and painting my calipers. When I put it all back together I noticed my brake pedal was very soft. The paint I used needs to cure for a little while before I get the brakes really hot so I haven't driven it yet, except to put it in the garage. I feel like there is still air in the sytem, I just wanted to make sure this wasn't normal before I went through a lot of trouble bleeding it again.
You have to move a lot of fluid through the system to be sure you got all the air out! By any chance did you let the reservoirs run dry?

To do a complete flush, which is basically what you are doing, takes one of those BIG bottles of brake fluid!

If you have time, you can do a gravity bleed! Just open up all four bleed screws and be sure to keep the reservoirs full. also but some vinyl tubing on the bleed screws to direct the old fluid into containers. I like this method because I can do it while I am doing other things on the car.

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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 11:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jackdaroofer
If you have time, you can do a gravity bleed! Just open up all four bleed screws and be sure to keep the reservoirs full. also but some vinyl tubing on the bleed screws to direct the old fluid into containers. I like this method because I can do it while I am doing other things on the car.
Yeah I could do that, but that's a fine way to let a lot of air into the system as well. It might work fine so long as the brake calipers are the lowest point in the system, but it's very likely that they are not. It works great for some people but I'm just not a fan.

Anyway I pulled the right rear wheel off and got out the old mityvac. I sucked a bunch of fluid out of the system, keeping an eye on the master cylinder of course. I had only jacked up that side of the car to do it so I had to put it on the ground anyway regardless of if I bled the others again. When I put it back on the ground I just tried the pedal for grins and was suprised to find that it was actually very solid. I started it up just to get the vacuum assist and found that the pedal was still very solid. I figured what the heck and took it for a test drive. The brakes are very good right now, a very firm pedal just the way I like it. I did several 50-0 all out panic stops and I can tell you this spring really does work.

Of course the front of the car still dips some but it's absolutely nothing like it was before. The car stays much more level which makes such a stop feel much more controlled.
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 04:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Yeah I could do that, but that's a fine way to let a lot of air into the system as well. It might work fine so long as the brake calipers are the lowest point in the system, but it's very likely that they are not....
Nathan, as I recall, you are a budding engineer, correct? You remember the bit about liquids seeking their own level...can you think of ANY caliper bleed screw that is higher than the top of the master cylinder? While a gravity bleed is not my favorite to do, (I like the speed of a shop-air power bleeder!) it remains one of THE most effective methods to insure the removal of all the air in the system. But then again, it's your call!
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 05:04 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by silver84
How much difference in force is there between installed:
DRM spring, and factory spring?
No replies, arrrrrr.
............
Does the aftermarket spring in question have
a higher or lower force, when installed?
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