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For those who have upgraded to the DRM or equivilent brake bias spring, did you notice any change in pedal effort? I installed my bias spring today, very easy and it actually didn't spill that much fluid. I bled the brakes, I thought I did so thouroughly, I never actually got any air to come out of the bleeders though.
I spent seveal more hours cleaning up and painting my calipers. When I put it all back together I noticed my brake pedal was very soft. The paint I used needs to cure for a little while before I get the brakes really hot so I haven't driven it yet, except to put it in the garage. I feel like there is still air in the sytem, I just wanted to make sure this wasn't normal before I went through a lot of trouble bleeding it again.
Well I was afraid of that, but not suprised. The front is easy enough to bleed with the wheels on the car but the back seems like it would be a real PITA. Maybe one of my mechanic friends has a power bleeder...........
when I installed mine, I did it with a new master cylinder. Is there a chance you damaged the old master? There are rubber seals and such inside... disturbing an older one could have done some'n... just tossing out ideas.
was there any fluid dripping between the master and the booster? That's a dead give-a-way of problems with the master.
when I installed mine, I did it with a new master cylinder. Is there a chance you damaged the old master? There are rubber seals and such inside... disturbing an older one could have done some'n... just tossing out ideas.
was there any fluid dripping between the master and the booster? That's a dead give-a-way of problems with the master.
There isn't any fluid dripping anywhere. I don't believe I damaged the master cylinder but hey you never know. I drove the car in to work this morning and the brakes pretty much suck right now. The pedal will fall about halfway down and do nothing. If you let off a little bit and then pump it again it will eventually "pump up" to a pretty good feeling pedal, it's just very scary when you hit it the first time. Of course I knew this before I left this morning so I didn't try anything stupid.
I guess the best explanation would be that it is "spongy." I'm going to try bleeding them again first. I never saw any air while I was bleeding them but I never actually saw clear fluid either, just all nasty brown stuff. There is probably just an air bubble trapped halfway beteen my master cylinder and one of the bleed screws now, I just didn't give it enough time to work it's way out.
If you let off a little bit and then pump it again it will eventually "pump up" to a pretty good feeling pedal, it's just very scary when you hit it the first time....
...I'm going to try bleeding them again first. There is probably just an air bubble trapped halfway beteen my master cylinder and one of the bleed screws now, I just didn't give it enough time to work it's way out.
If you can "pump it up" to a normal pedal, then I'd bet on a bubble in the line(s).
I'm considering getting one oif these springs, I have heaps of brake dust on the fronts, none on the rears. Brakes are adequate but I'd like them to be better.
Please post when you've got some opinion on the spring.
For those who have upgraded to the DRM or equivilent brake bias spring, did you notice any change in pedal effort? I installed my bias spring today, very easy and it actually didn't spill that much fluid. I bled the brakes, I thought I did so thouroughly, I never actually got any air to come out of the bleeders though.
I spent seveal more hours cleaning up and painting my calipers. When I put it all back together I noticed my brake pedal was very soft. The paint I used needs to cure for a little while before I get the brakes really hot so I haven't driven it yet, except to put it in the garage. I feel like there is still air in the sytem, I just wanted to make sure this wasn't normal before I went through a lot of trouble bleeding it again.
There's air trapped in the master. Being that you did the job on the car, you didn't "bench bleed" the master...no biggie. Get the proper line wrenches (I believe two different sizes) and a towel. Pack the towel under the master and have your assistance easily, and smoothly depress the brake pedal while you crack one of the tube nuts on one of the brake lines connected to the master. Just as you would bleed a caliper, do both lines. AFTER you do that, re-bleed all four, starting with the RR. You know the proper sequence. Now would be an excellent time to install the speed bleeders and flush all of the old fluid out. The rears are not hard to do, but you do need to remove the rear wheels. (Unless you want to get brake fluid all over the place, including yourself!) If you don't have a couple of feet of clear plastic hose for bleeding, wait until you get the Speed bleeders, as I think the nipple may be a different size, so you may need two different ID's. If you do this proceedure properly, assuming no component "issues", your brake pedal will be firm.
There's air trapped in the master. Being that you did the job on the car, you didn't "bench bleed" the master...
I would agree with this. That would explain why you didn't see any air coming out at the calipers, but you pedal still feels "spongy".
You could also go to your locat auto part store and buy a kit that comes with all kinds of adapters to bench bleed your master cylinder. You basically unscrew the brake lines at the master cylinder. Screw on the appropriate adapters with a short piece of hose that you stick back into the reservoir. Make sure that the hoses are submerged in brake fluid so you don't end up sucking air back into to the master cylinder. Then just pump you brakes slowly until no more air comes out.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Well the deal fell through on QuikZilver's sale of his braided hoses, so I bought them from him. Looks like I'll be needing to bleed them again anyway
Nathan, before you start banging your head against the wall again, Go out and get a set of four "solo bleeders" from Earls or Summit. These replace the bleeder valve with a check valve. One guy can bleed the entire brake system with these, no sweat! It took me less than one hour to completely flush the entire system, and that included making up a bottle to catch the old fluid in. I made up a long hose so I can see the bottle when pumping the pedal. The toughest part is having to get in and out of the seat to refill the reseviour.
Trust me They are great and you'll be telling everone to buy them as I am!
You may have bled all the calipers, but did you bleed the master cylinder Nathan??? :blush:
You know it's the funniest thing that I actually installed the spring and followed the directions, which said nothing more than to bleed the brakes according to the service manual which I did. Any air that was in the master cylinder should now be well on it's way to one of the calipers.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
You know it's the funniest thing that I actually installed the spring and followed the directions, which said nothing more than to bleed the brakes according to the service manual which I did. Any air that was in the master cylinder should now be well on it's way to one of the calipers.
Your looking at air going to more than just one of the calipers.
Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Jul 19, 2004 at 05:09 PM.
Did you bleed the ASR/ABS box behind the drivers seat under the floor. If you got air into this, bleeding all the wheels and master cylinder won't do any good. There's a bleeder valve on this box.