Air Bubble???
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 81
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From: Suring Wisconsin
Air Bubble???
Can anyone explain how I can get the air out of the cooling system
on my 1989? The Low Coolant light goes on and off and it's driving
me crazy. Radiator seems full and temp is OK. Thanks, in advance.
on my 1989? The Low Coolant light goes on and off and it's driving
me crazy. Radiator seems full and temp is OK. Thanks, in advance.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 6
From: Winchester Ontario
I'm interested in this as well. I tried removing the rad cap, starting the car and letting it idle and revving it a bit from under the hood and filling it like that.
DO THIS WHEN IT'S NOT HOT! heh
DO THIS WHEN IT'S NOT HOT! heh
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
Likes: 4
From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Ruby6spd
The LT1 engines have a little purge screw that is on the neck of the water pump. If the L-98 has the same try opening the purge with the engine running and you will bleed off air
There is also a purge screw near the bottom of the throttle body (toward the driver's side) on the LT1 - don't know if you have this also. Basically, I drained out a good portion of coolant, opened up the purge screws, and then poured the coolant back in. When I saw a nice stream coming from the screws, I closed them and then continued filling the system. This may not be the most "professional" approach, but it worked for me. Oh, and for the LT1 people, put some sort of barrier between the purge screws and the opti to catch any fluid! I forgot this my first time. DOH!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,139
Likes: 1,727
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Start the car with the cap off.
Let it warm up until the stat is fully open, then rev the car up to 2000rpm or so and have someone add coolant when it drops.
Wait until all the bubbles have stopped coming out.
Let it warm up until the stat is fully open, then rev the car up to 2000rpm or so and have someone add coolant when it drops.
Wait until all the bubbles have stopped coming out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
From: walled lake MI
Originally Posted by vader86
Start the car with the cap off.
Let it warm up until the stat is fully open, then rev the car up to 2000rpm or so and have someone add coolant when it drops.
Wait until all the bubbles have stopped coming out.
Let it warm up until the stat is fully open, then rev the car up to 2000rpm or so and have someone add coolant when it drops.
Wait until all the bubbles have stopped coming out.
in my shop manual states to check the coolant level again after warming the engine up and cooling down three times, and adding coolant as necessary. it also advises against driving hard during this time (probably in case you have air bubbles).
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,595
Likes: 1
From: Thornton CO
So are there 2 purge screws on the LT1 or just 1? I see the purge screw that is on the neck that on my car is on the passenger side underneath the throttle body but that's the only 1 I see.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
From: walled lake MI
i think yours may only have one. the earlier LT1's have another that you can see from the driver's side on the throttle body, under the TB opening. it is hard to see if you are in a dark garage.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
From: walled lake MI
i'm wondering if drilling holes in the 'stat purges the air from the cooling system. 
i CAN believe drilling small holes will make it behave like a lower temp stat by constantly leaking some coolant to the radiator.
am i missing something here?
i CAN believe drilling small holes will make it behave like a lower temp stat by constantly leaking some coolant to the radiator.
am i missing something here?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,167
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From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
Originally Posted by tempest
i'm wondering if drilling holes in the 'stat purges the air from the cooling system.
i CAN believe drilling small holes will make it behave like a lower temp stat by constantly leaking some coolant to the radiator.
am i missing something here?
i CAN believe drilling small holes will make it behave like a lower temp stat by constantly leaking some coolant to the radiator.
am i missing something here?
No, you're not missing anything. They're unrelated.
The easiest way to solve the low coolant light problem is to fill the expansion tank. The system will take care of the rest.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
There should also be an air sensor located on the engine compartment side of the rad, below the fill cap. It is the unit that senses air and sends the low coolant level code. If you have satisfied yourself that you do not have air in the system and the coolant level is above this sensor, then replace the sensor.
After this sensor is exposes to air, it will take a while to clear itself. Usually a drive of 3-5 miles is long enough.
After this sensor is exposes to air, it will take a while to clear itself. Usually a drive of 3-5 miles is long enough.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Ridgefield CT
I had the same problem with my 89 after new water pump even though I "burped" the system. For 3 straight nights I drove car, let it cool down and added a couple of ounces of AF. After the 3rd night no more low coolant light.It might help if you raise the front of the car although I didn't have to.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
From: walled lake MI
Originally Posted by skidmark
I had the same problem with my 89 after new water pump even though I "burped" the system. For 3 straight nights I drove car, let it cool down and added a couple of ounces of AF. After the 3rd night no more low coolant light.It might help if you raise the front of the car although I didn't have to.
