When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been reading a thread here about a car which has similar issues as mine.
Mine always feels like it's under load. It detonates and "sounds like a can of rocks" under hard acceleration. The CR is only a little under 9.5 I think (mechanic told me).
But, I have a rich fuel condition as well which made me think that being lean wasn't a problem, until I read that maybe an injector or two are going lean causing problems, and the other injectors and ECM may be over compensating making it lean.
It is also pulling 7 degrees of timing at WOT, all it pulls is 7, no more. I previously had some chip work done, but wasn't optimized for what it has now. Maybe they made 7 the maximum timing that the computer will pull.
So, to test the injectors, I read that I had to pull the harness off it and test the ohm's with a digital multi meter. I read to do this with a warm engine.
I have a super ram. Has anyone else tried this without having to remove anything?
I had the same problem with my 91, started to run a little ragged so I changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned IAC. The more I did the worse it got! I read a note from Sam Lam on this Forum to check injector resistance: should be 16-17 ohms. I checked mine hot and cold, but there was almost no difference. They ranged from 5.0 to 18.0 ohms. Five of the 8 were bad and I ordered a set of 24# Accels from Summit at $229 + shipping (best price I could find). I started the installation last night and will finish tonight (if it doesn't rain). God, I hope this works. BTW, all the Accels checked out at 14.6 ohms on the bench. JFB tells me an impedance check will provide more information than resistance as an injector can have the correct resistance but still be junk. I pulled some technical articles from a few years ago and found GM had troubles with acidic fuels (particularly ethanol with a low pH) eating the insulation in the injectors and shorting them internally. Newer injectors don't let the fuel see the electrics. Hope this helps.
Thanks guys. Yeah, about 2 1/2 years ago I bought FMS 30# injectors. I'll try the resistance thing tonite with my multi meter. I looked at them today and 4 will be easy to check, the other 4 are partially covered by my super ram.
Take them off and send them to www.rceng.com and they will clean the things for you. Another way is to take it to a local tech college and see if they have an injector testor. I believe LPE offers the cleaning service for less than $100. Sometimes a clogged injector will cause a problem because instead of atomizing the fuel, it squirts it out. Either that or you could go with the Ford Motorsport ones which are 24 pph and have the EPROM reprogrammed which you will have to do anyways. Who did the EPROM for you?
I had the 30 pph ones with my Superram and had no problems but of course, that is when John was tuning it while playing with my car in Decatur, IN.
Hey guys: The GM injector problem will be found on 89 through 91 model years with the Rochester Multec injectors. These injectors are identified as being gray in color and will have the "RP" on them. If your injectors are a different color, they probably are not the 22 pound, stock GM injectors. Sometimes the injectors will test good until the engine warms up and then they short out. This is why you need to check the resistance both cold and hot. I may have contributed to my injector problems as I use a Techtron fuel injector cleaner often. I am pleased "my problems" has helped others.
Regards, Sam
Hey guys: The GM injector problem will be found on 89 through 91 model years with the Rochester Multec injectors. These injectors are identified as being gray in color and will have the "RP" on them. If your injectors are a different color, they probably are not the 22 pound, stock GM injectors. Sometimes the injectors will test good until the engine warms up and then they short out. This is why you need to check the resistance both cold and hot. I may have contributed to my injector problems as I use a Techtron fuel injector cleaner often. I am pleased "my problems" has helped others.
Regards, Sam
Hey, that is what happened to me!
My multecs test OK cold, but short when that warmed up, burning out my ECM
My shop blamed it on the injector cleaner I have been using. Don't use cleaner on the Multecs!
Okay. Am I checking these wrong? I pulled the connector off the injector. Inside there are two spades. Meter is set on ohms. When I check the resistance across the two spades I read 0 ohms. Not .02. Zero. Did this with three injectors on a warm engine. All the same.
Am I stoned (not likely!) or is this a bad sign.
BTW, they're grey... and, yes, I use the Techron stuff.
Last edited by EPiC Vette; Sep 18, 2004 at 03:55 PM.
A reading of "0" ohms indicates a full short. If you car will run even if very rough.....you cannot have "0" ohms (in all eight injectors)......as this will not allow the injectors to place fuel in the engine. I would suspect you have your ohm/volt meter set to volts (instead of ohms) and you will get "0" volts when you measure across the injector. Make sure you are set up to measure ohms and try again! Oh yes.......I used the Techtron fuel injector cleaner too! I think this may have accelerated my problem. Rich at Cruzin Performance will not rebuild Multec injectors. Good luck!