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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 11:45 AM
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Default Pos Doug Nash!!!

Grrrrrrrr.... i got this brand new remanufactured Doug Nash 4+3 transmission. I've had it just long enough for the warranty to run out. And now it's giving me hell. I was hoping you guys could tell me you've had this problem before and it's a simple fix...
Without pressing the button to go into overdrive, it constantly does go into overdrive. If i press on the gas enough it comes out of overdrive but it goes right back in again. IT EVEN TRIES TO GO INTO OVERDRIVE IN FIRST GEAR When it goes from drive to overdrive or viceversa it makes a big banging sound probably 3-5 times before it actually finds a medium. My sister was driving behind me on the way home when this happened, and she let me know when we got home that the car was giving off a terrible smell.
Please, PLEASE tell me you guys have some ideas on this???
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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Sorry, no simple fix, its time to overhaul the OD.......again.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 12:37 PM
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Well something doesn't sound right. If it is trying to go into O/D in 1st gear then it is sensor/switch related. If you don't fix that then O/D will be toast soon if not already. Did the unit come with brand new switches/sensors or did you have to transplant your own?
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 03:15 PM
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The very same thing happened to my 87's OD. I sent it to S&S and it was rebuilt, no simple fix.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 03:21 PM
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Check the wires on the connector for the OD relay. The insulation
pulls back and the wires can short together and turn the OD on/off
not under control of the ECM.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jfb
The very same thing happened to my 87's OD. I sent it to S&S and it was rebuilt, no simple fix.
Perhaps, but it sounds like something that CONTROLS the transmission's behaviour is up the creek without a paddle. If that isn't fixed then no # of transmissions thrown at it will survive.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dave_85
Check the wires on the connector for the OD relay. The insulation
pulls back and the wires can short together and turn the OD on/off
not under control of the ECM.



Did this to my 84 and got a few more miles out of it...then said the hell with it, put in a ZF6! no more POS! :-)

you would be surprised how the wires are bare on those relays!
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 05:34 PM
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WOW guys, i REALLY appreciate the help. Every time i come here you guys are FULL of information. Eventually i'll know enough about these things to return the favors and offer some advice of my own.
I'm gonna tell the mechanic to check those wires for a short like you posted Dave. If that doesn't turn out to be the problem, then THIS time i'll spend the extra money for the ZF6!
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 06:21 PM
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I agree with Scorp.. sounds like an electrical problem. The shuttering may be mechanical, but can be caused by the relay also.

For now, I'd hardwire a 12 V switch to the solenoid terminal on the side of the OD, or disconnect it completely to avoid making anythiing worse.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dave_85
Check the wires on the connector for the OD relay. The insulation
pulls back and the wires can short together and turn the OD on/off
not under control of the ECM.

Start There
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86

Start There
I agree, first confirm the electical/sensors are all functioning as designed.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dave_85
Check the wires on the connector for the OD relay. The insulation
pulls back and the wires can short together and turn the OD on/off
not under control of the ECM.
Can someone please give me more detail on how to do this?
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 10:11 PM
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The overdrive relay is located on the firewall between the brake booster and distributor. Actually, theres two identical relays there. The one in back is your fuel pump relay. The wires going to both of them shrink overtime and can short out.. ALL older vettes are like this. You might as well fix up the wires to both relays while you're in there.

The way the overdrive relay works... when a certain set of conditions is met (overdrive switch on, RPM below ~3200ish, not in 1st gear, engine temp > 120) and the ECM sends a ground signal to the relay, which closes it and then the relay powers the overdrive indicator light on the dashboard. The relay then also applies 12V to a wire running down the firewall to a blade terminal on the drivers side of the overdrive unit itself. If the internal pressure switch is closed (meaning at least ~150 psi ATF pressure), the 12V signal makes it to the overdrive solenoid, energizing it and thus changing the fluid paths in the overdrive unit.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 11:58 AM
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which relay is closest to the firewall?
The od or the fuel pump?
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 04:35 PM
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the overdrive relay is closest to te firewall
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 08:42 PM
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
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Originally Posted by lead foot 85 vet
the overdrive relay is closest to te firewall
I guess so... I don't remember..
I usually use the trial and error method.

Also, for future reference:

If you're ever stranded due to a suspected failed overdrive relay, just swap the plugs on those relays. I know you can drive with no fuel pump relay, (because an oil pressure switch also powers the pump).. but you might need it hooked up at least to start the car.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I know you can drive with no fuel pump relay, (because an oil pressure switch also powers the pump).. but you might need it hooked up at least to start the car.
I've never tried it, but I bet if you let it crank long enough you'll build up enough oil pressure to trigger that switch. I've driven with O/D unplugged before and the car it still good for 150mph in 4th gear.
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 09:22 PM
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
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Originally Posted by scorp508
I've driven with O/D unplugged before and the car it still good for 150mph in 4th gear.
Yeah.. at about 6 mpg...

You'd get about 120 miles down the road, and coast for another 20.
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