C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

VATS, refresh my memory....

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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 03:42 PM
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Default VATS, refresh my memory....

When you turn the key and the car doesn't even turn over yet the SECURITY light blinks at you......

Does that mean VATS is preventing you from starting the car?
Does that mena VATS is NOT preventing you from starting the car?

I've go a no-start condition right now. I haven't had time to look into it all that much, but wanted to get this part outta the way first.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 04:06 PM
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When you insert the ignition key and turn it to "run" the system does the bulb check in the DIC. If the key pellet is read properly the Security light goes out.

If the Key pellet is not read properly the Security light will be on solid. If you turn the key to start, the starter will not engage.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 05:18 PM
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Ok thanks. I can hear the starter enable relay clicking behind the center I/P. I've got some work to do. I guess I should check the CRANK fuse first though.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 07:23 PM
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If you can hear the starter enable relay clicking, that indicates the Pass Key Decoder Module is grounding the starter enable relay.

It should click only once each time you turn the key to start.

If it's chattering, could be a bad starter enable relay.

When the relay closes, 12 volts from the ignition switch passes through the relay to the clutch safety switch. The clutch safety switch then passes the 12 volts to the S terminal on the starter solenoid.

If you need to drive the car, you can always push start it.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 11:10 PM
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If the VATS module doesn't see the correct pellet resistance it will NOT close the start enable relay, so you do not have a VATS problem. Jump the clutch safety switch and try a crank. Check the condition of the battery cable to batt terminals and clean if necessary. Jump 12v to the purple wire on the clutch safety switch, this should make the starter run. Measure the battery terminal volts when attempting a crank (starter must engage for this test). It must not fall below 9.0 volts or the battery is discharged, battery cables have poor connection, or the battery is at the end of its life.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 03:47 PM
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Yep - sounds like bad/corroded battery cable.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 03:53 PM
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I should have added that the battery measures 12.46v standing still and under a 250 amp load tester still holds ~10.75v.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 04:06 PM
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At one point I had similar trials and tribulations - I got VATS bypass to eliminate any future probs.

It was a long time ago, so I don't remember the details, but what you're describing sounds like what happened to my car. It was the starter. One day I went out and it just made a small click. Nothing. I even tried jumping the terminals on the solenoid (wasn't the smartest thing I ever did). Local guy rebuilt it for me and hasn't made a hiccup since.

My $.02.

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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by loiq
It was a long time ago, so I don't remember the details, but what you're describing sounds like what happened to my car. It was the starter. One day I went out and it just made a small click. Nothing. I even tried jumping the terminals on the solenoid (wasn't the smartest thing I ever did). Local guy rebuilt it for me and hasn't made a hiccup since.

I hope to have time this weekend to go through the starting system systematically this weekend. If it is the starter I may convert to the mini starter.
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