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What genius designed this LT1? Good Lord!
Why didn't they ask me if I wanted to change the wires while it was apart with the blower install? Man!
Anyway, what's the secret? Tires off. Inner fender off. Am I right so far?
What else? Unreal!! I really just purchased the wires because of my problems. With almost 53,000 mi I figured it can't hurt it.
Thanks in Advance
Herb
What genius designed this LT1? Good Lord!
Why didn't they ask me if I wanted to change the wires while it was apart with the blower install? Man!
Anyway, what's the secret? Tires off. Inner fender off. Am I right so far?
What else? Unreal!! I really just purchased the wires because of my problems. With almost 53,000 mi I figured it can't hurt it.
Thanks in Advance
Herb
I feel your pain on this one--the passenger side is a pita but do-able. The driver's side is something all together different. I've gotten to where I can change them pretty quickly by means of brail method if I pull the serpentine belt, remove the belt tensioner and a/c unit (can be moved without loosing the charge). Recently, I had to replace one of the vent lines to the distributor...you might as well schedule a session with your threrapist as it will drive you nuts. I eventually did all of the above plus I pulled the crank pulley.
Blower must make it harder because its not all that bad. 90 minute job, max, w/o removing anything except support bracket for the ASR to move it aside. It's all in the body contortions. You'll get the hang of it. Afterwards, you'll a responsibility to marry your car, considering some of the obscene positions you have to assume to make the job go smoothly... my wife came out once when i was changing them, think she got jealous. I think she thought I was hunching my car, but I was only going after the #8 plug...
P.S. F-bodys are a LOT worse... buried in the firewall.
Last edited by Lone Ranger; Aug 6, 2004 at 05:44 PM.
Blower must make it harder because its not all that bad. 90 minute job, max, w/o removing anything except support bracket for the ASR to move it aside. It's all in the body contortions. You'll get the hang of it. Afterwards, you'll a responsibility to marry your car, considering some of the obscene positions you have to assume to make the job go smoothly... my wife came out once when i was changing them, think she got jealous. I think she thought I was hunching my car, but I was only going after the #8 plug...
P.S. F-bodys are a LOT worse... buried in the firewall.
Are you talking about changing the plugs or the wires?
Heh. I thought my LT1 was a PITA too, until I bought a Mitsubishi Diamante. Have to take off the intake to get to the rear bank. And they used the intake as a mounting point for every relay, cable and vacuum hose under the hood, so there's a ridiculous amount of stuff that has to come off.
Heh. I thought my LT1 was a PITA too, until I bought a Mitsubishi Diamante. Have to take off the intake to get to the rear bank. And they used the intake as a mounting point for every relay, cable and vacuum hose under the hood, so there's a ridiculous amount of stuff that has to come off.
i had a diamante also. is that unbelivable to have to pull the intake the change plugs or wire on the rear.
I cannot take credit for the below method. Copied it off another member's reply to a similar thread once. Nor can I comment on how effective it is, but it sounds reasonable:
How to change plug wires
1. Remove driver's side wheel.
2. Remove A-Arm shield to give access to wires and clips.
3. Remove serpintine belt using 1/2" breaker bar & appropriate size socket on belt tensioner.
4. Remove belt tensioner assembly. This give clear access to optispark.
5. Remove power steering pump mounting bolts (3 bolts) and pull pump forward approx 2 inches. The pully has big holes so you can access the mounting bolts. You may have to rotate the pully to gain access to all bolts. This give you necessary clearance to wires routed behind pump.