When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My car's been running great all summer, but I recently returned from a two week vacation and now I can't even start it.
The engine turns over, but it immediatly stalls out. It's acting like it's starved for fuel. If I hit the gas immediatly after starting it I the car engine will stay caught and perform great, but as soon as I let off the gas it starts to chug and stalls out.
I sat in my driveway and kept on the gas until the engine temp reached 130 degrees, at that point the car would stay running at idle (although it WAS very rough) so it seems as though it gets better as the engine warms up.
I'm not sure what the problem with this could be. (choke?, throttle body?, fuel pump?) Any suggestions on what to look at?
I saw a post recently that was similar.
I believe the solution was cleaning the throttle body and IAC.
Have your TB and IAC been cleaned lately.
There are other things that could cause similar symptoms.
Hopefully someone else will speak up.
I saw a post recently that was similar.
I believe the solution was cleaning the throttle body and IAC.
Have your TB and IAC been cleaned lately.
There are other things that could cause similar symptoms.
Hopefully someone else will speak up.
I had the same kind of experience... exact same symptoms. It turned out to be the Idle Air Control valve (just under the throttle body). Mine was very dirty and I figure it was sticking. BUT, I didn't figure out it was the IAC, until I replaced the MAF (long story... similar symptoms, but it was coincidental).
Search for IAC for more info; it's not that difficult to take out and clean and not that pricey to replace (< $50 if I remember right). The worst part of the job is dealing with the coolant and resetting the throttle position sensor (have a voltmeter or laptop with diagnostics).
I had the same kind of experience... exact same symptoms. It turned out to be the Idle Air Control valve (just under the throttle body). Mine was very dirty and I figure it was sticking. BUT, I didn't figure out it was the IAC, until I replaced the MAF (long story... similar symptoms, but it was coincidental).
Search for IAC for more info; it's not that difficult to take out and clean and not that pricey to replace (< $50 if I remember right). The worst part of the job is dealing with the coolant and resetting the throttle position sensor (have a voltmeter or laptop with diagnostics).
I had that problem and everybody gave similar advice. Except for me it turned out to be the MAF relays. There are two and one of them failed (after 18 years and 168,000 miles... not really complaining) and the MAF was giving inconsistant info to the computer. The local shop suggested replacing both ( less then 20 bucks each) so I did. The problem did not immediately go away, but after 2 engine starts ( getting to a "burn off cycle") the problem went right away. I don't quite understand a burn off cycle, but apparently every 5 or 6 strarts the engine performs a MAF burn off. Mine stopped doing that, and the idle was severly affected.
The only problem I have now is that while I was troubleshooting the original problem, I was playing with the slow-idle screw and the TPS adjustments, and now I have them all messed up ( I have a thread open on that ).
I had that problem and everybody gave similar advice. Except for me it turned out to be the MAF relays. There are two and one of them failed (after 18 years and 168,000 miles... not really complaining) and the MAF was giving inconsistant info to the computer. The local shop suggested replacing both ( less then 20 bucks each) so I did. The problem did not immediately go away, but after 2 engine starts ( getting to a "burn off cycle") the problem went right away. I don't quite understand a burn off cycle, but apparently every 5 or 6 strarts the engine performs a MAF burn off. Mine stopped doing that, and the idle was severly affected.
The only problem I have now is that while I was troubleshooting the original problem, I was playing with the slow-idle screw and the TPS adjustments, and now I have them all messed up ( I have a thread open on that ).
The MAF sensor senses the air flowing into the plenium, the burn of heats the wire so that it remains clean and gives correct readings... Are u still having problems with your slow idle screw and tps?
The MAF sensor senses the air flowing into the plenium, the burn of heats the wire so that it remains clean and gives correct readings... Are u still having problems with your slow idle screw and tps?