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Ok, a fellow forum member had a deal I just couldn't resist. A full Intercooled Procharger L98 kit with all parts, including an already modded power steering bracket, instruction booklet, and an used boost gauge with pillar pod for $2500. I picked it up today. He had used it for about 900 miles before he blew a head gasket and removed the whole system. It looks brand new. Now for my questions: The directions call to use the stock injectors and an FMU. Do I still need to use the FMU with the DFI system I have? What provisions if any, does the DFI have for Superchargers? I have an extra set of 48lb injectors laying around that I could use. Has anyone used a procharger kit with the DFI? Experiences? My CR is 10:1. I know the procharger kits are going on LS1s that are running the same CR and are making big power. I am at 375 rwhp now with my current mods. Where can I expect to be with 6lb or so coming out of the compressor? Sorry for the long post.
Member Black Bart is using Accel Gen 7 on a 455 small block pushing 18 lbs of boost in his 89 vette. No FMU but an upgraded fuel system. I bought his old 42lb injectors as he gone way bigger now. Tjwong can help you with this even more. Also AKRacing if he chimes in with his much modified 90.
Member Black Bart is using Accel Gen 7 on a 455 small block pushing 18 lbs of boost in his 89 vette. No FMU but an upgraded fuel system. I bought his old 42lb injectors as he gone way bigger now. Tjwong can help you with this even more. Also AKRacing if he chimes in with his much modified 90.
Are you talking about the same Black Bart that posted on here?
Ok, a fellow forum member had a deal I just couldn't resist. A full Intercooled Procharger L98 kit with all parts, including an already modded power steering bracket, instruction booklet, and an used boost gauge with pillar pod for $2500. I picked it up today. He had used it for about 900 miles before he blew a head gasket and removed the whole system. It looks brand new. Now for my questions: The directions call to use the stock injectors and an FMU. Do I still need to use the FMU with the DFI system I have? What provisions if any, does the DFI have for Superchargers? I have an extra set of 48lb injectors laying around that I could use. Has anyone used a procharger kit with the DFI? Experiences? My CR is 10:1. I know the procharger kits are going on LS1s that are running the same CR and are making big power. I am at 375 rwhp now with my current mods. Where can I expect to be with 6lb or so coming out of the compressor? Sorry for the long post.
If you've got the bigger injectors, you might as well tossed them in and lose the FMU...you might want to go with a Walbro, too! (the ATI inline leaves a little to be desired) Yes, a Gen VII isn't a problem...getting your dashboard gauges to work takes a little work. As for RWHP goals...try: na rwhp x ((.045 X psi boost) + 1) = boosted rwhp
375 rwhp X((.045 X 6 psi) +) = 476 boosted rwhp (or about 16.5 rwhp per psi of boost)
The DFI is already on the car and working well. I didn't see a configuration setting for a supercharger. For those that use the DFI, what would I change in the configuration (other than injector size)? I have also got an in-tank walbro 255lph pump. Will that be enough to feed this thing? I was thinking of waiting until winter to put this together but just seeing that compressor sitting in the garage.......
The DFI is already on the car and working well. I didn't see a configuration setting for a supercharger. For those that use the DFI, what would I change in the configuration (other than injector size)? I have also got an in-tank walbro 255lph pump. Will that be enough to feed this thing? I was thinking of waiting until winter to put this together but just seeing that compressor sitting in the garage.......
Speaking generically (since I have a FAST), you'll have to re-tune many of your maps once you get the blower installed on the car. Specifically, your VE/Fuel tables and Timing will need some adjustments for the boosted application. Do you have a wideband O2 sensor on your DFI? If not, you should probably consider adding that option for tuning purposes.
The ECU doesn't really care about the SC. Both the Accel and FAST have provisions for N20 control. Since the SC is essentally always on, you'd just re-tune the DFI as if you had made some other mod to the car.
I'm running an ATI 12 PSI L-98 With a FAST system. If you already have DFI, are you running a MAP sensor? You'll need a 2 bar MAP sensor, and in the configuration specify a 2 bar instead of the 1 bar. Throw in the 48s, toss the FMU and start retuning. I was running stock CR on my L-98 for a few years with the 10 psi pulley with no problems. However I barely made 5 psi on the gauge due to other engine mods. Now with the 12 psi pulley, and forged pistons with a 9.0 CR I see close to 10 psi.
On a modded engine, you won't see the advertised boost levels so you should be safe with the 10/1 CR.
A word of warning when and if you make the change to a 2 bar map. Be sure to check and retune your steady state base VE table. Just changing to a 2 bar map sensor in the global ECU settings is not a good thing without checking your steady state VE map.
A word of warning when and if you make the change to a 2 bar map. Be sure to check and retune your steady state base VE table. Just changing to a 2 bar map sensor in the global ECU settings is not a good thing without checking your steady state VE map.
Tom,
What does the Gen 7 do when you switch MAP sensors in this case? I am pretty sure that the FAST will copy your numbers in the rightmost side of the VE table straight across to fill the resolution of the 2 bar MAP (that is, it does no interpolation). Does the Gen 7 do the same thing when switching MAPs?
What does the Gen 7 do when you switch MAP sensors in this case? I am pretty sure that the FAST will copy your numbers in the rightmost side of the VE table straight across to fill the resolution of the 2 bar MAP (that is, it does no interpolation). Does the Gen 7 do the same thing when switching MAPs?
Ron
Thats right Ron, when you make the change to a 2 bar or a 3 bar sensor all it does is change the snesor scaling on the left of the screen. In other words where with the 1 bar sensor at 100 kpa you will have X value, when you make the 2 bar change that same value will be in the 200 kpa cell. So that means that you would have to rescale the VE maps totally where 100 kpa would be getting half the fuel if one changes to a 2 bar sensor. One client made the change from a 2 bar to a 3 bar and found out the hard way!
Wow, great advice! What is the cost to go to the 2 bar? Anyone know? Also, would it be advisable to go to an 8 rib system? I am trying to get all parts and pieces together before the install?
Wow, great advice! What is the cost to go to the 2 bar? Anyone know? Also, would it be advisable to go to an 8 rib system? I am trying to get all parts and pieces together before the install?
I don't think you'll need the 8-rib for running 6lbs of boost.
Dunno the price of 2 bar sensors, but can't imagine that it's that much more than the 1 bar sensor.
Wow, great advice! What is the cost to go to the 2 bar? Anyone know? Also, would it be advisable to go to an 8 rib system? I am trying to get all parts and pieces together before the install?
well yes I do! Also, I called ATI today regarding the pulley that came with this kit. They said it's a 2.8" inch. I could go down to a 2.67" which would give me 10lb at the blower and who knows what at the intake. How much boost do you lose with a modified engine on these kits? TJ, how much can you get the pulleys for?
well yes I do! Also, I called ATI today regarding the pulley that came with this kit. They said it's a 2.8" inch. I could go down to a 2.67" which would give me 10lb at the blower and who knows what at the intake. How much boost do you lose with a modified engine on these kits? TJ, how much can you get the pulleys for?
I can't get any deals on pulleys. For the vortec stuff, its cheaper to buy their 8 rib pulleys and then I machine their hubs so that I can use them in the LT1 engines with Vortec blowers. I would think that you can do the same thing with the ProCharger stuff. The deal with the Vortec pulleys is that typically they have an offset to the seated surface, so I just chuck them up on the lathe, and turn it to the demensions I need. But for the LT1 cars you need to have a 8 rib balancer made for it to work and the associated idler and tensioner as well. Idlers I can get off the shelf from Gates or Dayco, but the tensioners I have to have made to spec.
All this custom stuff gets real expensive fast. I don't know what ASP charges but I heard it was over $1000 for a 8 rib setup, and for $1000 I am not sure what you are even getting. I heard they made a press on ring affair for the balancers that needs a 8 rib belt, the way I have them done is I build have a complete outer ring made with both the accessory and the blower belts as a one peice ring. But it takes more time and costs more than a single aluminum ring that is pressed on. But I trust my design more