I downloaded a file a while back that shows a procedure for doing your own wheel alignment using 3/4" conduit, jack stands and fishing line.

Anyway, I finally decided to give it a try, so off to Ace Hardware for the conduit and line.

The instructions are pretty simple to follow with the most exacting part being adjusting the jackstands so that exact equal measurements are obtained front to rear and side to side.

Well, with all the different "recommended" settings floating around out there, I decided to give the Daily Drive settings a try. Setting Toe-in at 1/32 (each wheel) made a dramatic change in steering effort. Effort became so light I couldn't believe it.

Actually, I felt a little, (just a little) uncomfortable, because just the slightest turn of the steering wheel made the car move instantly. On the Interstate (and other rather smooth roads), following roadway grooves became "noticable" but not objectionable.

Car wasn't quite twitchy but it sure responded MUCH quicker.

I just finished changing the toe settings to 1/16" in (each wheel) for a total of 1/8" total, and am about to go for another ride to see the difference.

Guys on the Roadrace board know all about this, but getting negative camber up front can be a chore. I'm thinking that in order to get negative camber (without pulling and grinding down the spacers), I'll have to sacrifice positive caster.

So basically, what I'm doing now is getting the best I can in the camber area and then playing with toe-in.

I'd be interested in any alignment settings that any of you early C4 guys have tried and liked. Subjective comments are welcome too.

EDIT: Ben Palmer was nice enough to host the file on how to do the self alignment; the link is:

http://users.bigpond.net.au/ben_p/co...lAlignment.doc



Thanks,

Jake

 

Where'd you get the file? I want to try it.

 

Great tool for setting toe - toe plates from the stock car guys. I used port city's plates. Combine that with degree'd rotating plates for your tires and a camber/caster gauge and the front end isn't too bad. The rear is more work and needs the toe set evenly relative to the centerline of the car.

 

I thought "Advanced Street" settings are...

Front: Toe O*
Camber .25* neg
Caster 5-7* pos

Rear: Toe 1/8 in toe-in

Camber .50* neg

This is the set-up I want to try...

 

Hey, where can we get a copy of those instructions you used?

Thanks

 

I got a pair from Harbor Feight for about $120 on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45742

They are real solid plate steel construction, about 30 plus pounds each.

 

You're right.

The 1/32nd toe-in, etc., settings I used are Daily Driver settings.

I'll edit my original post and make the change.

Thanks.

Jake



Jake

 

There have been a couple of posts showing interest in the file/diagram, but when I tried to email it, I find that the new Forum format doesn't list the email address of members. So I don't know how to attach it.

What I'll try to do, now, is post it to what use to be called "Tech Tips" under the title "Self Wheel Alignment. I haven't tried posting a TT using the new Forum; hope there's still such an animal.

Jake

 

Well, I tried to Copy/Paste the Doc file to the TT Section but for some reason it wouldn't work.

If anyone wants the file, email me at jakejr266@sbcglobal.net and I'll be happy to send it.

EDIT: Ben Palmer was nice enough to host the Self Wheel Alignment file. Hosting it sure saved me sending a ton of emails; had no idea this this would be so popular.

The link is:

http://users.bigpond.net.au/ben_p/co...lAlignment.doc

Jake

 

Vette Brakes and Products Advanced Street settings for me. Had them dialed in via a newer Hunter computerized rack at alocal Chevy dealership by tech experienced w/ C4's and C5's alignment procedures. Only way to fly, IMHO. $69.95

Care handles much better than w/ the stock settings.

 

You have mail

 

One thing I did notice is that when getting down to settings as tight as 64ths of an inch, the car DEFINITELY needs to be jounced.

Pulling up and pushing down on that sucka was wearing me out, so I opted for a mechanical solution. I used my floor jack to raise the tires off the floor, then suddenly released the jack to let the car drop. PLOP!

I then verified that distances from the wheels to my fishing lines hadn't changed; then checked my last adjustment to see if it held. A couple of times the settings needed tweaking.

When the Service Manual says the car needs to be pulled up and pushed down three times to settle the suspension, GM knows what they're talking about.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

It should make a difference in the readings again after you roll it back and forth as well. The castor is not as important as getting your negative camber up front. Presuming that you're running either stock or poly bushings, you may want to consider setting the rear toe in about 3/32" per side. This will keep the rear very stable and comfortable. If you were using it on a road course, it could use as much as an 1/8th in per side. I wouldn't recommend it for straightline/hwy driving though, as you would wear the outside shoulders. On the front, you may want try zero toe. If the car is lowered in front, you will be able to get a ton of negative camber. In the absence of that, pull all the shims, and get some of the thinner donuts and "rebuild" the camber with the shims. There's a lot of ways to skin the cat.

 

Front: Toe 1/16
Camber -1
Caster 6-7 pos

rear
toe 1/16
camber -.5

 

Hi all, I converted JAKE's self alignment files to .jpgs, but I can't host them. If someone can host them I'll e-mail them.