I'm in the middle of installing a set of Hookers on my 90 auto right now.The drivers side went on ok even though it looks like when I put the Y Pipe on it's going to be really close to the trans shift cable. Also I had to remove the heat shield for the brake lines just until I got the header in place. Also had to remove the K member brace then put it back on after the header was in place. Now comes te fun part the passenger side. Removed the heat shield for the fuel filter and had to trim it slightly. Also removed the frame brace on this side also. The #8 bolt was a PITA!!!! to tighten up. Had to loosen up all the other bolts push the header slightly forwardthen take a ground down wrench and get on it and only turn it an eighth of a turn many times to get it tight.When I got underneath to put the frame brace back on it wont go because the tubes are so close to the frame that I can't slide the brace back in place. Even if I could there isn't enough room t put the bolts back in. The tubes are in the way. So I might have to loosen up that side again then slide the brace in after some grinding bolt that up then go back for the second time and tighten the flanges down. I also moved the wires for the starter back cause they were very close to the pipes. THIS HAS ME NUTS AND I DIDN'T EVEN GET TO THE Y PIPE YET

 

I've never installed Hookers on a C4 but I've found them to be ill-fitting pieces of crap in other applications. More bad experiences with them than with all other brands I've dealt with combined.

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of header installs! I STILL don't have the #8 bolt in after 2 months. No leaks though, except the collector gaskets. That's a whole other story though

 

Flexitallic makes a metal gasket that you can use on the y-pipe ends. These are metal gaskets that compress when you tighten everything up. If you lock the nuts in place that gasket will never shrink or leak. These gaskets are used in boiler plants. Once in place and tight you don't have to worry about them at all.

with the bolt strength. There isn't any stress on the bolts other than expansion and contraction due to heat so a grade 8 bolt isn't any better than a grade 5 bolt in this case.

 

Looks like alot of people had issues with the Hooker headers, but mine went in with just a little tweeking. The Ypipe is a tight fit, but nothing serious.

I use Hi heat permetex on the collector gaskets (both sides) and dont have any leaks.

These headers added about 15 HP to my setup.

Vic

 

My hooker Y pipe sucked. I recently had a shop make custom pipes and install dual Random metallic cats. Bye bye Y.

Use stainless steel bolts on the collectors. The bolts that come with the header rust and are difficult to remove.

Also, you can get smaller bolt head and nut sizes, which make getting your wrenches on the collector bolts easier.

 

Just wondering what the hi heat permetex stuff is? is it that orange stuff that some exhaust shops put on top of their exhaust gaskets? or just put without any gasket?

I'm alson wondering if any one has installaed LT headers on a convertible vette? is the X brace under the car in the way? any input would be apreciated, I would like to do this mod in the future but would like to know if I can because of the X brace.

Thanks

 

hooker sells ball flange connectors in summitt and probably jegs.

i think their designed to replace the header flange. Just buy them and have any muff shop weld them on and your done with all collector leaks.

 

Get the ARP 1" long stainless header flange bolts. they have a 1/4" hex head that you CAN access with a 1/4" ratchet set and a "modified" box wrench for #8. They made a world of difference in the ease of installation.

 

Where can I get the gaskets from and how much do they cost? Would I find them at a local O'Reilly'?

 

Yes, that's what they're referring to although I've never been a fan of, nor have I ever used any sealer on any type of exhaust connection. I don't believe it's necessary if everything's done right and could even cause problems such as sealers misapplied in other applications.
I have heard of some fitment issues with LTs on converts but have no personal experience. I'm sure it would vary by brand and that someone has firsthand knowledge and will chime in.

 

Where can ya buy these Flexitallic gaskets at?

 

O'Reillys doesn't carry Percy's, but they DO have Mr. Gasket, which is either aluminum or copper. Either way, they work just the same and won't blow out.

 

I'll get the address for you Tuesday. It's at work and I don't return to work until Monday (grave shift worker).

You install them, crank down on your nuts and bolts which compresses the gasket, and if the nuts and bolts don't loosen up on you that gasket will never leak.

If you have the space I'd use a double nut to lock both nuts in place or add some lock tight blue to the bolt.

 

I got the Percys at Autozone, but I first make sure the header flange is flat buy running a file across it and running a file across the y-pipe mating surface.

In the winter I will cut off the Hooker & Y-pipe flange and then use a band clamp, the TPIS guys sell a set headers with this setup.

I think the ball flange would be a good option too,

 

What kind of heat shielding are you guys using with your hooker LT headers?

 

My little Mazda (stock headers and exhaust) has a flange setup like the hooker and Y pipe flange and it was always leaking... its really a bad way of having an exhaust system setup If you ask me personally.

I'm really curious to know what a band clamp setup looks like, would you or any one have any pics of a TPIS header setup were I can clearly see this band clamp?

 

They have pictures of band clamps in the Summit catalog. It allows you to slip a pipe into another pipe and then essentially, wrap a piece of flat steel 360 degrees around the two pipes and hold them together.

Here is a pic of a set of TPIS headers with no flange.

 

Just got finished with my install of Hooker long tubes. Some of the heat shields had to be trimmed and the K member had to be trimmed on the passenger side only. Also had to move the wires to the starter so they wouldn't melt. The Hooker Y pipe is junk, It's rubbing my shift cable bracket and is real close to the rubber covering on the cable end. I hope it don't burn through. It also rubs the tunnel heat shield on the drivers side a little. I think i'm going to use the stock Y pipe and just cut the pipes back and have collectors welded on. Anyone know how much power i'm going to loose by going back to the stock pipe since it's a smaller diameter? At least it will be alot easier to install

 

Flowmaster is the only one I could find in Summit, and I found a problem with them. They don't offer a 3" to 3". Either 3 1/2" to 3" or 3" to 2 1/2" I guess you could weld the 3 1/2" pipe to the flange of the header. It would look like crap, but it would probably work. I'm thinking of going with the band clamp idea. But first I'm going to try exhaust donut gaskets. If they don't work, it's band clamp time