Performance vs. cost
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 6
From: Winchester Ontario
Performance vs. cost
I have a cam which was chosen for me before I knew anything about cams, I still don't know much, but I know more than I did before.
Comp Cams 222/226 @ 0.050 0.464/ 0.464 lift
I would love a LPE 219 but converting to a roller cam setup is kinda costly from what I've heard.
Swapping a hydraulic non roller cam with the same specs would be cheaper but still kinda pricey with labor costs.
Fellow forum member Nathan Plemons has had huge success in playing with 1.7 rr's.
I was wondering, with my .464 lift with 1.5 rr's, if I changed to 1.7 rr's I'd hit 0.525 lift.
Does Nathan's success rely on the fact that he's using an LT1 instead of an L98? Would 1.7 rr's be beneficial on an L98 as well and what would the cost be on just replacing the rr's? What parts would need to be changed in that swap?
Comp Cams 222/226 @ 0.050 0.464/ 0.464 lift
I would love a LPE 219 but converting to a roller cam setup is kinda costly from what I've heard.
Swapping a hydraulic non roller cam with the same specs would be cheaper but still kinda pricey with labor costs.
Fellow forum member Nathan Plemons has had huge success in playing with 1.7 rr's.
I was wondering, with my .464 lift with 1.5 rr's, if I changed to 1.7 rr's I'd hit 0.525 lift.
Does Nathan's success rely on the fact that he's using an LT1 instead of an L98? Would 1.7 rr's be beneficial on an L98 as well and what would the cost be on just replacing the rr's? What parts would need to be changed in that swap?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,167
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From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
You would need to investigate the valvetrain geometry that the 1.7's would provide. On numbers alone, .525 would be great. Nathans numbers are partly attributable to his having an LT1, but L98's also respond well to lift over .500 But like I said, you need to make sure it doesn't cause problems with the valvetrain. If it DID cause problems, I'm sure different length pushrods would solve it.
As far as the cost for the roller conversion, look at the big picture. This is a motor you will hopefully have for years. Is it worth it to skimp now, and regret it later? Or is it better to spend the couple hundred extra now, and have what you want for years to come?
As far as the cost for the roller conversion, look at the big picture. This is a motor you will hopefully have for years. Is it worth it to skimp now, and regret it later? Or is it better to spend the couple hundred extra now, and have what you want for years to come?
Last edited by flyersfan1088; Aug 18, 2004 at 04:14 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
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You need the 1.6's at least, and you can go to 1.7s though I dont know of anyone who has them on an SR/219 motor. (at least i dont recall, so i cant give a power estimate)
If you go to 1.7s, be sure you have the right set of springs, they need to be stout.
I dont remember if you ever had your power/ET issues resolved and got that car where it should be for a 383, if you havent I would definitely go for the roller conversion.
If you go to 1.7s, be sure you have the right set of springs, they need to be stout.
I dont remember if you ever had your power/ET issues resolved and got that car where it should be for a 383, if you havent I would definitely go for the roller conversion.
