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I just ordered TPIS headers and high flow cat for my L98 and am wondering if there are any special gaskets or bolts I should get for the install. Also, are there any tricks to installing them. I will be doing the air pump elimination at the same time. thanks
Replace the stock bolt on the #5 (I think) tube with an allen (sp?) head bolt. The dimple in the tube usually isn't large enough for a socket. I would check all socket clearances before installation.
I've heard that some guys need to move the fuel lines where they come up over the frame rail to get more clearance from the header tube.
The bolt behind #8 tube will be a PITA to access.
You might check into Stage 8 header bolts as they come with a hex head and have an allen center. I used them with the Edelbrock TES on my IROC but don't know if you can get them long enough to fit the stand-offs that come on the TPIS headers. Anyway I mostly use an open end wrench on them anyway, so hex head header bolts should work ok.
On a Hooker header install, the passenger side motor mount bolt has to be reversed, don't know if it's the same for TPiS. Felpro makes some good header gaskets.
I've heard that some guys need to move the fuel lines where they come up over the frame rail to get more clearance from the header tube.
The bolt behind #8 tube will be a PITA to access.
You might check into Stage 8 header bolts as they come with a hex head and have an allen center. I used them with the Edelbrock TES on my IROC but don't know if you can get them long enough to fit the stand-offs that come on the TPIS headers. Anyway I mostly use an open end wrench on them anyway, so hex head header bolts should work ok.
I recently installed a set on my 85 and found that a set of hex header bolts (allen key access) would have helped a ton. This is the only thing I would recommend other than having a punching bag for your frustrations and a good amount of time to complete the install. Be sure not to torque the headers until the y pipe is installed.
Get the car up as high as possible. Drivers side can then be slipped in from the top. Remove the K braces on each side for clearance but re-install the passenger side BEFORE you tighten down the header to the head. I just start 1 bolt on the header so I can swing it up/down around to get at things. Otherwise you can't get one of the bolts in the side back in. If you got the coated headers be sure to test fit the Y pipe, I had to sand the header & inside of the Y to make it fit. recently I cut short slots in the Y to make it easier to remove install. The clamps seal it up fine with no leaks.
65Z01 is right about the fuel lines. I never liked how mine were too close to #2 primary & when I had the block out totally re-routed up to the top of the frame & away from the exhaust. Its a pain though w/ the air cond. pump & brackets in the way. With them out I was able to do it much easier. Before I just wrapped the fuel line w/ header insulation wrap to keep it cooler.
With the front of the car on ramps and the rear on jackstands I was able to complete the install from a height standpoint. I too had to move my fuel lines around a bit. I also bought a starter blanket and heat sheild to to wrap the fuel lines.