MAF Relays?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,942
Likes: 705
From: WI
Great, thank you! With the threads on testing the MAF. Is it ok to drive the car with the MAF disconnected for testing purposes or should the car only be idled quickly to test? I plan to get the Helms books as soon as I can. What MAF brand do you use?
A
A
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,182
Likes: 2
From: Almost all Skyline Cruises Vettes at Waterside 1-5
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Originally Posted by 65Z01
On my '88 the relays are located above and behind the battery on the firewall.
You can likely get the part numbers off the tops of yours.
You can likely get the part numbers off the tops of yours.
On my 88, the pair of relays is located in front of the battery on the inner liner around the wheel. They are mounted on a single "holder" fastened to the inner wheel well by a sheet metal screw that is accesible (philips) without removing the wheel.On mine, till I did a little backyard engineering, you had to remove the fastener in order to get the relays off the holding frame.
My 88 is almost the last of the 88'sand I have found there are several '89 changes incorporated in it. Maybe that explains why my relays aren't on the firewall behind the battery
seeya
Last edited by jackdaroofer; Aug 25, 2004 at 07:12 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Yardley PA
The part numbers for the relays on my '87 were 14089936 (both the same). I paid $11.92 each.
I also cleaned the thin wire with carb cleaner when I replaced the relays (very careful not to touch the electronics - just the wire). No more codes thrown.
I also cleaned the thin wire with carb cleaner when I replaced the relays (very careful not to touch the electronics - just the wire). No more codes thrown.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 363
Likes: 11
From: St. Catharines Ontario CANADA
Originally Posted by Curveit
My late '86 has two different part #...the burn-off is not the same # as the other, so there were changes through the years.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Perry Ga
Originally Posted by stick91
I also cleaned the thin wire with carb cleaner when I replaced the relays (very careful not to touch the electronics - just the wire). No more codes thrown.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 363
Likes: 11
From: St. Catharines Ontario CANADA
Originally Posted by TALMADGE
I have had a 33 code and replaced the relays twice. I still have from time to time the code. Where is the thin wire located that you cleaned? This may be my problem.
Last edited by redvette1986; Aug 26, 2004 at 09:38 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
Sorry, but I wouldn't mess with the wire in the MAF, if you do, prepare for a new MAF, there EXTREMELY sensitive. Check these three wires, the dark blue wire, the green wire or the black wire, since they can all affect the MAF-might as well check all three for clean and good connections. 
Last edited by rick lambert; Aug 26, 2004 at 09:43 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by redvette1986
I think he was referring to the sensor element inside the MAF itself. Remove the flexible duct in front of the throttle body, remove the maf wire connection and unclip the maf to get it out. Th wire is inside behind the screens (if you still have them on). BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THAT FINE WIRE!
In the past I had trouble with K&N filter oil coating the MAF sensor wires which threw off the info the ECM was receiving.
Jake
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Yardley PA
Originally Posted by redvette1986
I think he was referring to the sensor element inside the MAF itself. Remove the flexible duct in front of the throttle body, remove the maf wire connection and unclip the maf to get it out. Th wire is inside behind the screens (if you still have them on). BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THAT FINE WIRE!
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Yardley PA
Originally Posted by rick lambert
Sorry, but I wouldn't mess with the wire in the MAF, if you do, prepare for a new MAF, there EXTREMELY sensitive. Check these three wires, the dark blue wire, the green wire or the black wire, since they can all affect the MAF-might as well check all three for clean and good connections.
I agree there are some risks messing with the MAF, but if you're getting a code and tried replacing relays, cleaning connections, etc without success, I think you really have nothing to lose at this point. When I bought my '87 last year, I always got a MAF code (and a terrible idle) at startup. My last resort before buying a new MAF was to remove the screens and clean the wire. I'm happy to report that after the cleaning I have not thrown any more codes and the idle's been perfect - one year and counting!
