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From: [Quote=WOEII] Is dried brown doodie powders man! [/Quote]
I had a hard time detecting lockup when I put my tranny in and thought for sure it wasn't doing it. One sure fire way to tell is when you are cruising along at 55 or so tap and hold (lightly) the brakes and your tach will jump up a little and you'll hear the engine speed up. Then when you let off the brake just the opposite should happen as the TC, if everything is working correctly, locks up.
As for the converter, stick with the higher stall unit. I have either a 24 or 2600 stall, can't remember, you will love it. It is absolutely fine just cruising around. I would have to tell you it was there in normal driving but it noticably raises it's head when you hit the loud pedal.
Oh,..... so the converter will lock even if it is under the stall speed (I am at 1600rpm at 60). That is different that I would have imagined, but I suppose it makes sence.
That being the case, I guess it is a no-brainer to keep it.
I had been worried that I would have to spend a lot of labor replacing it if I didn't like it. But then I realized that I am planning to rebuild the engine in a few months anyway. I'll easily be able to reach in and just grab it once the block is out.
Now all I have to worry about is blasting my D36 to oblivion.... Hopefully it should not be a problem since
1) I am not going to build an engine with over 435 ft/lbs
2) I am getting the cap-reinforcing bat-wing and will be installing it soon
3) I will have all-weather street tires on it.
HeeHaw,
I see in your sig that you have a similar setup to what I am planning on ending up with. I would have thought that the LPE 219 would have too much durration for a motor with Long tube intake runners. If you had it to do over again, would you pick that cam?
And, since I see you use Nitto's with a 2600 stall converter, have you upgraded to a D44, or are you running with the D36?