Front suspension setup for autocross
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 1
From: Manchester NH
Front suspension setup for autocross
I'm in the search for some feedback and advice. I'm on a quest to get my 93 coupe to handle better, namely, to reduce the "push" the car has when tightly cornering @ moderate to high speeds (i.e. autocross conditions). My first instinct is to try to make the front end more stiff by adding an after market camber brace and/or a bigger front sway bar, hopefully increasing the amount of oversteer. But some of what I've read indicates doing this would worsen the problem, and now I'm confused.
I would appreciate any feedback or experience you might have with this. Other pertinent information is that I am running on 60 tread wear race rubber, stock tire size (255/45/17) and the rest of the car is bone stock. I do intend on upgrading all the suspension bushings to urethane as well.
If there are any online or other resources that you can suggest so I can educate myself on this those would also be appreciated.
I would appreciate any feedback or experience you might have with this. Other pertinent information is that I am running on 60 tread wear race rubber, stock tire size (255/45/17) and the rest of the car is bone stock. I do intend on upgrading all the suspension bushings to urethane as well.
If there are any online or other resources that you can suggest so I can educate myself on this those would also be appreciated.
Pro
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Venetia,Pa,USA
Front end autox setup
First get the front camber adjusted to at least 1 deg. negative on both sides. 1.5 deg. if you can get it. I could only get 1.1. Shim the front sway bar 3/16" from the frame mounting using washers. This improves turn in. Last adjust toe out on front wheels 1/16" per side. This can be done at the event [1/2" and 3/4" open end wrenches] by turning the tie rod 1/2 turn counterclockwise each side. One side is right hand thread and the other side is left hand thread.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
Likes: 4
From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Curveit
If you haven't already...try the Auto-cross section. They'll have all your answers there, and then some.
But there are some real gurus on this forum too. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
From: walled lake MI
Originally Posted by astock165
I'm in the search for some feedback and advice. I'm on a quest to get my 93 coupe to handle better, namely, to reduce the "push" the car has when tightly cornering @ moderate to high speeds (i.e. autocross conditions). My first instinct is to try to make the front end more stiff by adding an after market camber brace and/or a bigger front sway bar, hopefully increasing the amount of oversteer. But some of what I've read indicates doing this would worsen the problem, and now I'm confused.
I would appreciate any feedback or experience you might have with this. Other pertinent information is that I am running on 60 tread wear race rubber, stock tire size (255/45/17) and the rest of the car is bone stock. I do intend on upgrading all the suspension bushings to urethane as well.
If there are any online or other resources that you can suggest so I can educate myself on this those would also be appreciated.
I would appreciate any feedback or experience you might have with this. Other pertinent information is that I am running on 60 tread wear race rubber, stock tire size (255/45/17) and the rest of the car is bone stock. I do intend on upgrading all the suspension bushings to urethane as well.
If there are any online or other resources that you can suggest so I can educate myself on this those would also be appreciated.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 1
From: Manchester NH
Originally Posted by tempest
will the car be for race only or used on the street often too?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,488
Likes: 4
From: Frostburg MD
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Spokane Wa
TO get the front to turn. You need to make the rear stiffer or the front softer. This it referred to as loose or oversteer as the back end wants to break loose.
To tighten up or decrease the amount of oversteer or increase understeer. You do the opposite. Increase the stiffness of the front suspension and soften the rear. This is called tight or understeer as the rear end does not want to break out. It is tightly following behind the front.
You can do this with swaybars. shocks, tire pressure, tire size, springs, etc. There are many combinations on this. So choose carefully. You can make things go bad quickly. Luckily there is a lot of info out there. A little research will go a long ways.
It is not difficult if you do your home work. Good luck.
To tighten up or decrease the amount of oversteer or increase understeer. You do the opposite. Increase the stiffness of the front suspension and soften the rear. This is called tight or understeer as the rear end does not want to break out. It is tightly following behind the front.
You can do this with swaybars. shocks, tire pressure, tire size, springs, etc. There are many combinations on this. So choose carefully. You can make things go bad quickly. Luckily there is a lot of info out there. A little research will go a long ways.
It is not difficult if you do your home work. Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
From: walled lake MI
as fnseeker suggested, there are a lot of "formulas".
here are my general PERSONAL suggestions:
- if you decide on getting parts, start with replacing worn bushings. without good solid "pivot" points, you will not get full advantage from swaybars, springs and dampers, upgraded or not.
- if you are not too concerned about adding weight, i would stiffen the chassis (X-brace, camber brace, cross bar...) before you mess with changing suspension components. it's basically a similar argument as for new bushings -if your chassis is flopping all over the place, the suspension cannot effectively do its job.
- after you have a good foundation, THEN invest in suspension components.
- a cheap way to change handling dynamics is to play with tire pressures. i've had pretty good luck with 38 psi cold in the front and 36-37 in the rear.
i drive my Corvette daily and autocross at least once a month. i have the Advanced Street settings as in the link shotchkiss has written. i have pretty even tire wear after about 8K on my latest set.
and again i agree with fnseeker - do your homework and it won't be too bad.
have fun with it!
here are my general PERSONAL suggestions:
- if you decide on getting parts, start with replacing worn bushings. without good solid "pivot" points, you will not get full advantage from swaybars, springs and dampers, upgraded or not.
- if you are not too concerned about adding weight, i would stiffen the chassis (X-brace, camber brace, cross bar...) before you mess with changing suspension components. it's basically a similar argument as for new bushings -if your chassis is flopping all over the place, the suspension cannot effectively do its job.
- after you have a good foundation, THEN invest in suspension components.
- a cheap way to change handling dynamics is to play with tire pressures. i've had pretty good luck with 38 psi cold in the front and 36-37 in the rear.
i drive my Corvette daily and autocross at least once a month. i have the Advanced Street settings as in the link shotchkiss has written. i have pretty even tire wear after about 8K on my latest set.
and again i agree with fnseeker - do your homework and it won't be too bad.
have fun with it!
