Transmission Problems
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 1
From: Niagara Falls ON
Transmission Problems
My transmission shifts fine between gears. The problem is that getting it into Drive, Reverse, or 1st from Park or Neutral it shifts hard. I replaced the Torque Converter a few years ago. I now have another leak from the Transmission. Any ideas?
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron MI
Can I get an idea as to what to check the linkage for. Mine has same problem and the linkage is linked to the tranni and when I select drive, it moves and goes into drive. Mine also goes into drive or reverse on the hard side. Any help with what to chek for will be appreciated....
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Be happy it doesn't shift too softly. By a "hard shift" I assume you mean that it hits the gear hard, not that the shifter is difficult to move. The idle may be high, making it harder than it should be. If there is play in the drive train, u joints, or backlash in the diff, it will seem hard. First I would make sure the TV cable is properly adjusted, and than failing any of the above, learn to live with it. If it is brutally hard, there may be internal trans problems.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron MI
Having had a tranni rebuild, I am trying to set up TV cable and finding it difficult even with this web-link which is so much info. http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.html
I am reading that by pushing in the "D" tab and pushing in the outer cable assembly till flush and then releasing the "D" tab is the first step.
Then second is to move the throttle to WOT position allowing it to set up a distance or something and doesn't seem to pull out anything.
I read that it is a ratchet system and figure this may be seized even though it pushed in easy during the first step. If i can confirm this is the correct procedure that i'm doing, then i wil purchase a new cable. Any help with this would be great. Thanks, Dave...
I am reading that by pushing in the "D" tab and pushing in the outer cable assembly till flush and then releasing the "D" tab is the first step.
Then second is to move the throttle to WOT position allowing it to set up a distance or something and doesn't seem to pull out anything.
I read that it is a ratchet system and figure this may be seized even though it pushed in easy during the first step. If i can confirm this is the correct procedure that i'm doing, then i wil purchase a new cable. Any help with this would be great. Thanks, Dave...
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 0
From: [Quote=WOEII] Is dried brown doodie powders man! [/Quote]
This is from another post I made, just don't feel like retyping it all.
Reset the cable but when you do it don't force the inner cable out with the gas pedal or manual operation of the throttle. Place your thumb on the adjustment button, and your index and middle finger over the inner cable. Now either you (difficult) or a helper slowly rotate the throttle or slowly step on the gas pedal while pushing the cable back towards the firewall. Remove your thumb from the adjustment tab.
Edit-
Would like to add CFI is ***** on with his answer and I have the same exact issue as he describes. I have excess "slop" in my drivetrain, and an idle that is too high. Shifting into reverse is usually a little better for me as my garage slopes down a bit so most of the slack is already taken up. Going to drive from park or neutral in my garage results in very hard engagement. My S-10 with the 406 would actually bark the tires when you put it in gear from the same issues as mentioned above.
Reset the cable but when you do it don't force the inner cable out with the gas pedal or manual operation of the throttle. Place your thumb on the adjustment button, and your index and middle finger over the inner cable. Now either you (difficult) or a helper slowly rotate the throttle or slowly step on the gas pedal while pushing the cable back towards the firewall. Remove your thumb from the adjustment tab.
Edit-
Would like to add CFI is ***** on with his answer and I have the same exact issue as he describes. I have excess "slop" in my drivetrain, and an idle that is too high. Shifting into reverse is usually a little better for me as my garage slopes down a bit so most of the slack is already taken up. Going to drive from park or neutral in my garage results in very hard engagement. My S-10 with the 406 would actually bark the tires when you put it in gear from the same issues as mentioned above.
Last edited by Upstate; Sep 11, 2004 at 04:50 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
From the sounds of it, you are doing the adjustment properly. After you push the cable rearward, advancing the throttle arm won't ratchet the adjustment outward? I'm assuming that means you can't get full throttle. With some help, you may be able to release the button, keep pressure on the sheath AND rotate the throttle lever all at once. Manually releasing the button MAY take the place of the ratcheting action, that seems as though you are not getting. If I am right, you probably DO need a new cable. Are you sure it is set up properly inside the trans?
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron MI
During trying to set up the TV cable, changes have been noticed with reference to shift vs speed therefore am assuming the cable is connected correctly at the tranni end.
Reading upstate and cfi-efi's post I am gathering that if I hold in the "D" tab, have someone hold the throttle to WOT position, by pushing back the outer towards the firewall thus setting the WOT distance, then releasing the "D" tab is the correct procedure for adjusting the TV cable. If you could please confirm this it would really help. Dave...
Reading upstate and cfi-efi's post I am gathering that if I hold in the "D" tab, have someone hold the throttle to WOT position, by pushing back the outer towards the firewall thus setting the WOT distance, then releasing the "D" tab is the correct procedure for adjusting the TV cable. If you could please confirm this it would really help. Dave...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
What I'm saying is that method should substitute for the correct method. Like your web site explained, the button is pushed and the cable pushed toward the firewall. When the throttle is advanced, the cable should "ratchet" out to the proper setting. If I am understanding you correctly, the cable won't move when you advance the throttle. Therefore, I am suggesting you push the button to allow the cable to adjust. Also, IF I am correct in the above, I think you need a new cable that will release and adjust properly. Also, I would advance the throttle at the pedal and not at the TB. If the throttle arm moves further at the TB, manually, than it does from the pedal, you will end up with the adjustment further out than it will see in real world use, and run the trans at lower line pressures than it otherwise could. I hope all that made sense.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,511
Likes: 1,297
From: Windermere FL
I owe you all big time....
Ok guys, I owe each of you a few cases of beer!
After reading that URL, I went out to try to cure my wierd acting tanny (since it was rebuilt some months ago). The problem with the procedure was just what that web site states is the most common problem with TV adjustment - not being able to get the throttle fully wide opened!!!!
One of the clamps that use to hold on the supercharger hoses to the throlle body was interfering with its ability to go to WOT.
I never noticed it before as I was mashing the pedel from the driver's seat when I was trying to adjust the TV and never noticed it was not going to WOT. I was also lucky that the TB never got caught at WOT, as that could have easily happened.
Moving the clamp slightly cured that. Now the tranny shifts normally
I owe you all big time.
After reading that URL, I went out to try to cure my wierd acting tanny (since it was rebuilt some months ago). The problem with the procedure was just what that web site states is the most common problem with TV adjustment - not being able to get the throttle fully wide opened!!!!
One of the clamps that use to hold on the supercharger hoses to the throlle body was interfering with its ability to go to WOT.
I never noticed it before as I was mashing the pedel from the driver's seat when I was trying to adjust the TV and never noticed it was not going to WOT. I was also lucky that the TB never got caught at WOT, as that could have easily happened.
Moving the clamp slightly cured that. Now the tranny shifts normally
I owe you all big time.
Last edited by Flame Red; Sep 12, 2004 at 04:11 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron MI
Thanks for the post and I did use the peddle to set the WOT position. I glad these posts helped "Flame Red" and wonder if you cod tell me what speed your 1st, 2nd and 3rd change at normal acceleration. Dave...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
I'd have to go for a ride to answer that. I can't say I've ever paid any attention to them. It seems pretty normal, though. Also, my trans has so many modifications, I'm not sure my answers would be valid for most.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 0
From: [Quote=WOEII] Is dried brown doodie powders man! [/Quote]
I am a cheap date and will take molsen ice please, 1 case will do 
The shift speed chart in the FSM for my 88 is huge, so I'll list the most commonly occuring MPH / Shift.
These are min throttle shift points
1-2 upshift
10-13 MPH
2-3 Upshift
17-23
3-4 Upshift
35-45
WOT
1-2 Upshift
23 -47
MPH
2-3, and 3-4 aren't listed. Coast down down shifts are though but nothing over 55 MPH. If you have the 3 digit model code from your trans (YKM, YXM, etc) I can tell you exactly what the shift points should be. It's stamped on the case.
The FSM lists several different models, actually it looks like every single damn 700R4 used in the 88 model year for the entire GM line
.
[EDIT]
The ID should be located on the passenger side rear most corner of the tranny, just above the pan, that's my interpretation of the illustration in the FSM anyway.
The shift speed chart in the FSM for my 88 is huge, so I'll list the most commonly occuring MPH / Shift.
These are min throttle shift points
1-2 upshift
10-13 MPH
2-3 Upshift
17-23
3-4 Upshift
35-45
WOT
1-2 Upshift
23 -47
MPH
2-3, and 3-4 aren't listed. Coast down down shifts are though but nothing over 55 MPH. If you have the 3 digit model code from your trans (YKM, YXM, etc) I can tell you exactly what the shift points should be. It's stamped on the case.
The FSM lists several different models, actually it looks like every single damn 700R4 used in the 88 model year for the entire GM line
.[EDIT]
The ID should be located on the passenger side rear most corner of the tranny, just above the pan, that's my interpretation of the illustration in the FSM anyway.
Last edited by Upstate; Sep 12, 2004 at 04:58 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron MI
Is the TV cable the only adjustment after a re-install of a re-build?
Someone mentioned using a pressure gauge, is this something that has to be set up? This was the excact post.....
To properly adjust your TV cable you really need a transmission pressure gauge; I bought mine from BowtieOverdrives - for $30. Not a bad investment to keep your $1000+ trans rebuild alive.
Someone mentioned using a pressure gauge, is this something that has to be set up? This was the excact post.....
To properly adjust your TV cable you really need a transmission pressure gauge; I bought mine from BowtieOverdrives - for $30. Not a bad investment to keep your $1000+ trans rebuild alive.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron MI
Last follow up to Tranni Problem
Just need to know if there is a pressure gauge setting that I should be aware of or take it to tranni installer for set up. TV cable seems to be set up to the best of my ability but doesn't seem to shift smoothly like I feel it should. Maybe its the best it will be, I have nothing to compare it too. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.... Dave.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 0
From: [Quote=WOEII] Is dried brown doodie powders man! [/Quote]
I am pretty sure line pressures are listed in the FSM, but I am at work. I'll look it up for you when I get home. Your mileage may vary on the info though. It's very plausible that the pressures changed over the model years (and probably across models in the same year) so you may be comparing apples to oranges with your 84 and my 88.