Comp. cam Pro Magn Roller reckers Question.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 4
From: Milan
Comp. cam Pro Magn Roller reckers Question.
I really want to install a 1.6 rato roller rockers kit
Seems that a popular one is the Comp cam Pro Magnum series.
Here my question:
Self aligning or with with guideplates / hardened pushrods?
And what means 3/8" studs or 7/16" ? is the diameter of the stud for which the rocker is designed for?
The stock is 3/8" ?
if yes, to use a rocker kit with the bigger stud (7/16") I have to buy new studs and disassemble the heads from the engine to prerform the installation of new studs?
It seems that performance oriented members are with the kit with guideplates and 3/8" stud.
Why the kit with guideplates is better? (if it is )
-Beppe-
Seems that a popular one is the Comp cam Pro Magnum series.
Here my question:
Self aligning or with with guideplates / hardened pushrods?
And what means 3/8" studs or 7/16" ? is the diameter of the stud for which the rocker is designed for?
The stock is 3/8" ?
if yes, to use a rocker kit with the bigger stud (7/16") I have to buy new studs and disassemble the heads from the engine to prerform the installation of new studs?
It seems that performance oriented members are with the kit with guideplates and 3/8" stud.
Why the kit with guideplates is better? (if it is )
-Beppe-
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
On the street both self-aligning and non seem to be popular and both are used with success. For hard core racing it would be 7/16", guide plates, hardened push rods, etc., no question. BTW, you do not need to remove your head to change studs if you go that route. But the stock 3/8" studs should be more than adequate for most street engines, although you may need to use slightly longer ones. I have 3/8" studs, self-aligning Pro Mags and see 6,000 RPMs with some frequency.
Last edited by Corvette Kid; Sep 17, 2004 at 10:30 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Your stock #113 heads have screw in studs which are 7/16" on the threaded end and 3/8" where the rockers reside. Also they have non hardened guide plates which must be removed.
So I feel it's just as easy to go with the non self aligning ProMagnums for 7/16" studs, upgrade the studs to 7/16", replace the non hardened guide plates and install hardened push rods.
The overall cost is about the same as going with self aligning RRs and the work involved with #113 heads is about the same too.
BTW, you can get all the needed parts direct from Comp. Cams. I like them even better than Summit because when Summit has stuff on back order CC may have it on the shelf.
So I feel it's just as easy to go with the non self aligning ProMagnums for 7/16" studs, upgrade the studs to 7/16", replace the non hardened guide plates and install hardened push rods.
The overall cost is about the same as going with self aligning RRs and the work involved with #113 heads is about the same too.
BTW, you can get all the needed parts direct from Comp. Cams. I like them even better than Summit because when Summit has stuff on back order CC may have it on the shelf.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 4
From: Milan
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
On the street both self-aligning and non seem to be popular and both are used with success. For hard core racing it would be 7/16", guide plates, hardened push rods, etc., no question. BTW, you do not need to remove your head to change studs if you go that route. But the stock 3/8" studs should be more than adequate for most street engines, although you may need to use slightly longer ones. I have 3/8" studs, self-aligning Pro Mags and see 6,000 RPMs with some frequency.
I will end with complete superram 2149 Hooker LTHeaders, 219 cam, ported stock aluminium 113 heads, a chip burned by me, 52 TB, underdrive crank pulley on the engine in my sig.
..so you are saying that a self aligning 3/8" stud kit is good up to 6,000 rpm, but I need to change the stock 3/8" studs with longer ones? why?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 4
From: Milan
Originally Posted by 65Z01
Your stock #113 heads have screw in studs which are 7/16" on the threaded end and 3/8" where the rockers reside. Also they have non hardened guide plates which must be removed.
So I feel it's just as easy to go with the non self aligning ProMagnums for 7/16" studs, upgrade the studs to 7/16", replace the non hardened guide plates and install hardened push rods.
The overall cost is about the same as going with self aligning RRs and the work involved with #113 heads is about the same too.
BTW, you can get all the needed parts direct from Comp. Cams. I like them even better than Summit because when Summit has stuff on back order CC may have it on the shelf.
So I feel it's just as easy to go with the non self aligning ProMagnums for 7/16" studs, upgrade the studs to 7/16", replace the non hardened guide plates and install hardened push rods.
The overall cost is about the same as going with self aligning RRs and the work involved with #113 heads is about the same too.
BTW, you can get all the needed parts direct from Comp. Cams. I like them even better than Summit because when Summit has stuff on back order CC may have it on the shelf.
I have aquestion:
Is this tha kit you are referring? summit part CCA-1305-16?
on a warning info there is this: "Will not replace rail rockers on late model heads with centerbolt valve covers"
I have centerbolt valve covers!
Thanks
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by conv90
I'm collecting parts...
I will end with complete superram 2149 Hooker LTHeaders, 219 cam, ported stock aluminium 113 heads, a chip burned by me, 52 TB, underdrive crank pulley on the engine in my sig.
..so you are saying that a self aligning 3/8" stud kit is good up to 6,000 rpm, but I need to change the stock 3/8" studs with longer ones? why?
Thanks
I will end with complete superram 2149 Hooker LTHeaders, 219 cam, ported stock aluminium 113 heads, a chip burned by me, 52 TB, underdrive crank pulley on the engine in my sig.
..so you are saying that a self aligning 3/8" stud kit is good up to 6,000 rpm, but I need to change the stock 3/8" studs with longer ones? why?
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,506
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver,Wa.
Originally Posted by conv90
I'm collecting parts...
I will end with complete superram 2149 Hooker LTHeaders, 219 cam, ported stock aluminium 113 heads, a chip burned by me, 52 TB, underdrive crank pulley on the engine in my sig.
..so you are saying that a self aligning 3/8" stud kit is good up to 6,000 rpm, but I need to change the stock 3/8" studs with longer ones? why?
Thanks
I will end with complete superram 2149 Hooker LTHeaders, 219 cam, ported stock aluminium 113 heads, a chip burned by me, 52 TB, underdrive crank pulley on the engine in my sig.
..so you are saying that a self aligning 3/8" stud kit is good up to 6,000 rpm, but I need to change the stock 3/8" studs with longer ones? why?
Thanks
If this where me I would get the ARP 7/16" with harded guide plates Non self alighning. You will have a stronger valvetrain that is more stable.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 4
From: Milan
Originally Posted by 65Z01
Your stock #113 heads have screw in studs which are 7/16" on the threaded end and 3/8" where the rockers reside. Also they have non hardened guide plates which must be removed.
So I feel it's just as easy to go with the non self aligning ProMagnums for 7/16" studs, upgrade the studs to 7/16", replace the non hardened guide plates and install hardened push rods.
The overall cost is about the same as going with self aligning RRs and the work involved with #113 heads is about the same too.
BTW, you can get all the needed parts direct from Comp. Cams. I like them even better than Summit because when Summit has stuff on back order CC may have it on the shelf.
So I feel it's just as easy to go with the non self aligning ProMagnums for 7/16" studs, upgrade the studs to 7/16", replace the non hardened guide plates and install hardened push rods.
The overall cost is about the same as going with self aligning RRs and the work involved with #113 heads is about the same too.
BTW, you can get all the needed parts direct from Comp. Cams. I like them even better than Summit because when Summit has stuff on back order CC may have it on the shelf.
I have aquestion:
Is this tha kit you are referring? summit part CCA-1305-16?
on a warning info there is this: "Will not replace rail rockers on late model heads with centerbolt valve covers"
I have centerbolt valve covers!
Thanks
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Yep, 1305-16 is also the Comp.Cams P/N; Summit just inserts the CCA- prefix.
Don't worry about that caution; note it refers to "...rail rockers...".
You will need to grind the valve cover drip tabs and the sides of the bolt towers to fit over the ProMags.
I intend to (eventyally) do heads & cam too which should raise my rev limit to around 6k RPM, so I bit the $$ bullet and also installed Ti retainers with 10deg locks. BTW, toss the stock tin oil shedders to further lighten the valve train.
Since you are going with the 219 cam and 1.6:1 RRs your lift will exceed .520". Are you going with a dual spring or will the newer bee-hives do the job?
Don't worry about that caution; note it refers to "...rail rockers...".
You will need to grind the valve cover drip tabs and the sides of the bolt towers to fit over the ProMags.
I intend to (eventyally) do heads & cam too which should raise my rev limit to around 6k RPM, so I bit the $$ bullet and also installed Ti retainers with 10deg locks. BTW, toss the stock tin oil shedders to further lighten the valve train.
Since you are going with the 219 cam and 1.6:1 RRs your lift will exceed .520". Are you going with a dual spring or will the newer bee-hives do the job?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 4
From: Milan
I will going with 219 cam...
What I want to do is to buy Now 1.6 RR using the best kit available, KNOWING that I will insatll a performance cam.
Now I have in my garage/or on the way:
Complete 2149 Hooker LTH
Complete SR
52 TB
I will buy some stock NEW springs to use with new 1.6 RR and stock cam, and when the 219 will be on my hands I will search for the right Spring kit for the High lift new cam.
-Beppe-
What I want to do is to buy Now 1.6 RR using the best kit available, KNOWING that I will insatll a performance cam.
Now I have in my garage/or on the way:
Complete 2149 Hooker LTH
Complete SR
52 TB
I will buy some stock NEW springs to use with new 1.6 RR and stock cam, and when the 219 will be on my hands I will search for the right Spring kit for the High lift new cam.
-Beppe-
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,418
Likes: 1
From: NW Chicago Suburbs
I went with the non-self aligning ProMag 7/16 set up because the cost was about the same as self aligning, except I had to purchase hardened pushrods (~$100). I decided to go with the most bulletproof setup I could. I hope to add a CC 305 cam this winter, but even if I don't, my valve train would be the weak link.
I also went with the new beehive springs and Ti retainers, see my sig.
Eric
I also went with the new beehive springs and Ti retainers, see my sig.
Eric
