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I overhauled my brakes over the weekend (Z06 front updgrade, too ) and bled all 4 corners using Speed Bleeders. I used up 32 oz of new fluid in the process, but I still have air in the lines (I can see bubbles in both front lines when bled, but the rear ones are clear of bubbles) as my brake pedal is very soft and spongy. How many times do the brakes need to be bled before all the air is extracted out? Could I have a leak at the brake line connection points considering I installed SS brake lines? The car is kinda to drive like this
I overhauled my brakes over the weekend (Z06 front updgrade, too ) and bled all 4 corners using Speed Bleeders. I used up 32 oz of new fluid in the process, but I still have air in the lines (I can see bubbles in both front lines when bled, but the rear ones are clear of bubbles) as my brake pedal is very soft and spongy. How many times do the brakes need to be bled before all the air is extracted out? Could I have a leak at the brake line connection points considering I installed SS brake lines? The car is kinda to drive like this
Did you install new copper washers with the new lines?
If yes, and fittings are tight, you most likely just need to keep bleeding the fronts to get every bit of air out....
In what order did you bleed them? I used to bleed RR,LR,RR,LF. However, for ABS brakes they recommend a different order. Someone will be here soon with that proper order.
Last edited by 95AquaC4; Sep 28, 2004 at 12:46 PM.
Did you install new copper washers with the new lines?
Yes, installed the washers supplied with the Earls SS lines I ordered.
In what order did you bleed them? I used to bleed RR,LR,RR,LF. However, for ABS brakes they recommend a different order. Someone will be here soon with that proper order.
I bled RR, LR, RF, LF as stipulated in the Service Manual. The rear lines appear bubble-free, but both fronts still have tiny bubbles in them...
I bled RR, LR, RF, LF as stipulated in the Service Manual. The rear lines appear bubble-free, but both fronts still have tiny bubbles in them...
hmmm. interesting. I remember someone saying the order was different. Anyway, I wonder if the speed bleeders could be an issue. (I still stand by conventional bleeders.) Hope someone has the answer for you soon.
Double check that the front calipers are on the correct sides. If the bleeder is located on the top of the caliper, then it's backwards and will never bleed. Don't ask me how I know. It was late
Double check that the front calipers are on the correct sides. If the bleeder is located on the top of the caliper, then it's backwards and will never bleed. Don't ask me how I know. It was late
The bleeders are on the top of all 4 calipers. I installed the Z06 calipers on the sides indicated on each box -- boxes were marked Left and Right, so how could this be wrong???
The bleeders are on the top of all 4 calipers. I installed the Z06 calipers on the sides indicated on each box -- boxes were marked Left and Right, so how could this be wrong???
Bleeders MUST be on the top. Otherwise they may leak, someone a few weeks back did it upside down and had no luck at all 'til he put them right side up...
Just try bleeding the fronts again. I had the same problem when I upgraded to the C5 setup. It took me a while to get all the air out. You didn't let the master cylinder go dry at any point during the install did you? If you did then there may be air trapped in the master cylinder.
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Originally Posted by 1MoorTym
Is it possible you sucked some air from the speed bleeders? You might want to put the stock bleeders on and try a gravity bleed on the fronts.
I found that with repeated useage, the speed bleeders seemed to "wear out"
I have gone back to the stock bleeders and use the "gravity bleed" method. It takea a little longer, but I use the time to do other things on the car. As was previously pointed out, keep the reservoirs full of fluid
I just redid my entire system: Master cylinder overhaul, front and rear GS calipers, stainless lines.
FWIW, the 2 person method of bleeding (one on the pedal, one at the caliper) is the most efficient. Go RR, LR, RF, LF, until you get clear fluid at each site. If MC was overhauled, this may take 4 or 5 full pedals of fluid per caliper. Then tap the MC and all calipers with a rubber or wooden mallet to loosen any residual bubbles, and check for leaks at all connections. Repeat the bleed at all 4 calipers. IF no air bubbles and the pedal is firm, you are done.
If not firm at this point, start at RR and flush 6 full pedals of fluid, then repeat at LR, RF, and LF for 6 full pedals of fluid. That should get rid of the rest of the air.
Caveats:
Bleeder valves must be at top of calipers.
Refill MC after every 3 full pedals of bleeding.
2 person sequence is critical: On pedal, Open bleeder, close bleeder, off pedal. Also, use a clear hose so you can see the bubbles as they come out.
After driving for a week, may want to rebleed if pedal is not firm or you are compulsive.
I took the easy way out and drove the car to Just Brakes this morning and had them bleed the brakes using their hydraulic bleed machine . Evidently, there was still quite a bit of air in the lines, even after I bled the brakes twice :o . Once they refilled the system, the pedal was nice and hard and worked 100% better than before . So for around $30, I got the problem solved. And better yet, I did not have to get greasy again .
I took the easy way out and drove the car to Just Brakes this morning and had them bleed the brakes using their hydraulic bleed machine . Evidently, there was still quite a bit of air in the lines, even after I bled the brakes twice :o . Once they refilled the system, the pedal was nice and hard and worked 100% better than before . So for around $30, I got the problem solved. And better yet, I did not have to get greasy again .
I wanna get one of those, they make the job soooooooooooo easy...