C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

D36 Differential Fluid Change

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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 11:06 AM
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Default D36 Differential Fluid Change

My D36 is out of the car right now and I want to change the fluid. Should I remove the batwing cover and drain/inspect and reseal? Is this a pain in the butt to use RTV and get a good seal? Or...should I get one of those drain plug kits and not open cover up?

Any thoughts would help make my decision.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vsocks
My D36 is out of the car right now and I want to change the fluid. Should I remove the batwing cover and drain/inspect and reseal? Is this a pain in the butt to use RTV and get a good seal? Or...should I get one of those drain plug kits and not open cover up?

Any thoughts would help make my decision.
You could just dump it out after removing the hex-headed fill plug?

If not, removing the bat wing an regaining a good seal is easy enough. Just clean and inspect both surfaces. It should seal nicely with minimal amounts of sealant. No need to gob it on.

Last edited by 95AquaC4; Sep 30, 2004 at 12:50 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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I guess I never really thought about that option. Maybe that would be the best.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 03:34 PM
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with it out of the car, the options are endless.

I use a hand pump to drain/refill mine... but that's whilst it is installed in the car.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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I never liked the idea of drilling a hole in the housing and threading it to install a drain plug. Just didnt trust somebody else's measuring to tell me where to drill in area that I cannot see into. It's just as easy to use a suction pump to get the fluid out and use the same pump after cleaning to pump in new oil and a bottle of GM additive.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 04:55 PM
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Default What tool to use?

"You could just dump it out after removing the hex-headed fill plug?"

I looked at my D36 while rotating the tires and there was a tag labeled "Limited slip fluid only" is this the nut that I can drain and change the fluid with? I do have a hand pump that I can use. Also I noticed a small area of wetness around that area. What tool takes that nut off?
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 09:47 PM
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Yes, that is the plug that you could use to drain and then refill. If I remember right it is a torx head plug, so the right size torx bit would be used.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by vsocks
Yes, that is the plug that you could use to drain and then refill. If I remember right it is a torx head plug, so the right size torx bit would be used.
Mine was a 3/8" hex...or the metric equivalent of. A 3/8" standard worked for me. Good luck.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 08:47 AM
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I have decided to change the U joints in my driveshaft. Does the C-Beam slide out above the parking brake cables? Also, when you pull the driveshaft out of the tranny tailshaft is anything suppose to leak out?
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 09:03 AM
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A bit of fluid leaks out, not much- 1/2 cup maybe??
Dont need to slide c-beam out, maybe push it out of the way a bit.

I would take the batwing off the diff.(since it is out of the car already). Then you can drain the oil and wipe out all the gunge inside with paper towels. Seals easy with a bit of silicone goo.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by vsocks
I have decided to change the U joints in my driveshaft. Does the C-Beam slide out above the parking brake cables? Also, when you pull the driveshaft out of the tranny tailshaft is anything suppose to leak out?

Make certain to support the engine/tranny if removing the c-beam. If your not removing the c-beam, then support IT, as there is no crossmember in our cars. This is a mistake I made, and with my camber brace the engine moved enough to snap my ect sensor leads off. Supporting the c-beam on the brake cable is too far. It will need to be supported higher than the cables. good luck.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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What fluid to use? I know you need some additive but what lubricant? Book says 80W90 but some people say 75W90 and some even say 75W140,

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=48&TopicID=2 says Gear oil should have a GL-5 rating and a 75w-140 or 75w-90 weight, with 75w-140 being the preferred weight.

Why would you use 75W140?

Last edited by aklim; Oct 1, 2004 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 12:13 PM
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Is any kind of thread sealant used on the fill plug? When I removed it on ine there appeared to be a small trace of something. I don't want to use teflon tape or anything if not recommended.
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Old Oct 4, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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So ther fill plug uses no sealer I assume. Anyone know how much fluid is recommended? I know that 2 bottles (4. oz each) of positraction additive are recommended. I think the gear lube bottles are 23 oz.
Is 4 pints correct, and does that include the additive or not?

Last edited by vsocks; Oct 4, 2004 at 08:03 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2004 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by vsocks
So ther fill plug uses no sealer I assume. Anyone know how much fluid is recommended? I know that 2 bottles (4. oz each) of positraction additive are recommended. I think the gear lube bottles are 23 oz.
Is 4 pints correct, and does that include the additive or not?
My rear was out of the car too. I made sure to put the small bottles of additive in while mixing in some fluid. After the additive was in, I simply kept adding fluid, and checked the level by slowly turning the rear as if it was in the car. I just kept adding until it slowly flowed out of the drain hole while in the level position.
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