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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by MrRenoman
A wheel out of true will do this. No amount of balancing or alignment will fix a bad wheel. You have to spin each one against a reference point to see a wheel that is slightly bent.
Very true, jack the car up and set up a dial indicator w/ magnetic base on a jack stand or some other suitable steel base. Check it near the outer diameter of the rim. I would not like over .010-.015 on a car wheel. It would probably take a bit more than that though before you could feel it at normal speeds. If you detect more run out than this, remove the wheel and perform the same check on the hub. It would be less, being closer to the center but you still wouldn't want much. You may be able to find a spec on it. I recently cured a like problem on a 24.5 truck wheel. The poor guy had replaced the wheel, tire and obviously been through numerous balancings, etc. A new hub solved the problem, it just wasn't true enough.
I just talked to a guy that is the manager of a drive-train specialty shop. I told him about my vibration and asked about balancing my drive shaft. He told me that drive shaft vibrations happen at around 20-35 mph. and at higher speeds it smooths out. He said it sounded like a wheel balancing problem. I'm going to put my saw blades back on this weekend and try that.( I have 17x11 AFS all around on the car right now) I'll let everyone know what happens.
I just talked to a guy that is the manager of a drive-train specialty shop. I told him about my vibration and asked about balancing my drive shaft. He told me that drive shaft vibrations happen at around 20-35 mph. and at higher speeds it smooths out. He said it sounded like a wheel balancing problem. I'm going to put my saw blades back on this weekend and try that.( I have 17x11 AFS all around on the car right now) I'll let everyone know what happens.
I just talked to a guy that is the manager of a drive-train specialty shop. I told him about my vibration and asked about balancing my drive shaft. He told me that drive shaft vibrations happen at around 20-35 mph. and at higher speeds it smooths out. He said it sounded like a wheel balancing problem. I'm going to put my saw blades back on this weekend and try that.( I have 17x11 AFS all around on the car right now) I'll let everyone know what happens.
Funny, that's what I have too. I had to send one tire(front) and one rim (rear) back to AFS this spring because they were out of round, and covered under the warranty... I'd think it was these rims/tires, but my stock sawblades/tires did the same thing, unless one of THOSE was out of whack too!!!
One more time... Alignment in and of itself CANNOT cause a vibration!
Relax there - no need to get all stressed over this.
I realize that, but the car needed to be aligned anyways(new wheels/tires) , then it started pulling to one side after about 2 weeks, so I brought it back in... So it wasn't brought in FOR that.
I had a similar vibe on my 90 from 65-75 and it would seem to smooth out a little at 80+. When I pulled the rear end apart for other reasons I found one u-joint on each halfshaft was just starting to fail. There would have been no way to find this without taking the shafts out. I replaced all 6 joints and now all is well in the world.
I had a similar vibe on my 90 from 65-75 and it would seem to smooth out a little at 80+. When I pulled the rear end apart for other reasons I found one u-joint on each halfshaft was just starting to fail. There would have been no way to find this without taking the shafts out. I replaced all 6 joints and now all is well in the world.
Food for thought.
Dale
I'm thinking of going the U-Joint direction next. I have a small "clank" noise coming from one of them now when I'm backing up. It's been like that for about a year now - Maybe that's tossing it out of whack?
JB666, have you hit anything in the past year that might have bent something in the front end? Can you remember a point at which this all started?
To be honest with you, it's had this vibration since I bought it two years ago. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, so it hasn't been bugging me that bad - Till I go from a car with a perfectly smooth wheel, to this...
Sad, but my "winter beater" cruises perfectly smooth, while my Vette's shakin' - GO FIGURE!!
I'm thinking of going the U-Joint direction next. I have a small "clank" noise coming from one of them now when I'm backing up. It's been like that for about a year now - Maybe that's tossing it out of whack?
If you hear a ujoint making noise then you have found your problem. In my case they were not bad enough to make noise but when I had the shafts out, the caps felt "rough" when I spun them by hand. When they start to go they go fast it seems.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by JB666
Relax there - no need to get all stressed over this.
I realize that, but the car needed to be aligned anyways(new wheels/tires) , then it started pulling to one side after about 2 weeks, so I brought it back in... So it wasn't brought in FOR that.
Well that wasn't indicated initially. But it does drive me a bit batty when people have a vibration and mention alignment. Think about what alignment is. Caster, camber and toe. It can make it pull, wander and extremely undriveable if way off but there's nothing there that can cause a vibration per se. Stressed? I'm not stressed! Where's my Valium?
If the balancing was not on a road-force machine, you need to get that done.
I had a similar vibration, had the front tires rebalanced by the original place with no effect, then finally took it to Discount Tire and got them road force balanced and that fixed it.
Ok, I just got back from my buddy's shop, and he did a VERY thorough inspection of my front end.
First off, he agrees that I should just do all of the u-joints on the car, that it's a good thing, since one is clanking.
Next, the front end is VERY tight, except (key word here!!) the driver's side inner tie rod. I'm REALLY glad he found something, because now I don't feel like I'm insane.When you grab the tie rod and rock it up/down you can see some movement and hear a slight 'knock' from inside the boot. The only part that pisses me off is I'll have to pay for another alignment......
I'll pick the part up tomorrow, and he'll put it in for me Monday night. Are standard front end parts (NAPA) fine?
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by JB666
I'll pick the part up tomorrow, and he'll put it in for me Monday night. Are standard front end parts (NAPA) fine?
Most generally, anything that says NAPA on it is as good or better than the part you're replacing. I don't know who makes their front end parts, but if you want the best, specify Moog.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by JB666
Excellent!! why? Because I picked up my Moog part today! $45.. Not too bad!!
As far as I know, unless there's been a change in recent history, Nascar stock cars have always used over the counter, factory replacement Moog ball joints in their chassis. I doubt you could find a better testimonial than that to the quality of their products.
high speed vibrations after tires are round and balanced on a C4 over 50Kmiles is VERY likely half-shaft u-joints.
You should get the correct u-joints since the aluminum can corrode. They aren't that expensive and can be changed at home in way less than a day. They can be knocked out with a couple sockets since they are held in with clips.
Don't worry about changing the driveshaft u-joints. It doesn't move so they don't wear out. (At least the 200k mile ones I pulled out looked new)
Oh, also take a look at the wheel bearings, if they are loose it will follow road ruts bad, but they won't cause the vibration.
Well mine follows the road ruts, but I just credited that to the 275's that are up front - We checked the bearings last night, but they appeared to be fine. I'll look at them when I put the slotted/drilled rotors on that I have coming
Well today I took the wheels & tires off of my C5 and put them on the 92. Man what a difference! I took it up to 90 mph and it was smooth as a babys butt! So my vibration is definitely tire/rim related. I bought my 315x11x17's from The Tire Rack so I checked on-line to find a local installer they recomended.(the first three times I didn't use the recomended installer) Soooo... tomorrow morning I'll be at this shop at 7:30 to see if they can balance them. I'll let you know!
Well I got my wheels rebalanced today and these guys did the best job! They took their time and showed me how the hunter balance machine worked.Turns out my rear tires are begining to cup. The car rides much better but I still have some vibration. I want to put a set of 335's on the back but the Sumitomo's I've got on there sure didn't last very long. Does anyone have any recomendations on a tire brand that comes in that size?