help! heated o2 sensor question!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 2
From: Champaign, IL
St. Jude Donor '05
help! heated o2 sensor question!
I've heard of people using heated o2 sensors - From what I understand this becomes necessary when moving the sensor away from the engine?
Instead of grinding the ceramic coating off my headers
to weld o2 bungs can I put the o2 bungs/sensors after the headers if I use heated sensors? (I'm liking this idea) 
Will moving the sensors this far away and switching to a heated sensor compromise the integrity of the sensor reading?
If this is a good idea where can I pick some up?
thanks!
Joe
Instead of grinding the ceramic coating off my headers
to weld o2 bungs can I put the o2 bungs/sensors after the headers if I use heated sensors? (I'm liking this idea) Will moving the sensors this far away and switching to a heated sensor compromise the integrity of the sensor reading?
If this is a good idea where can I pick some up?
thanks!
Joe
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: machesney park il
a heated sensor is pretty much a must with headers.i dont see why you cant put it right after the headers,that sounds like a good idea.just make shure there are no air leaks ahead of the sensor.i run a heated sensor in my 85 and it works excellent,i can dig up the bosch part# for you if you want it.
Pro
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 678
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From: Oslo, Norway
Hi I have an 85 which I put the TPIS long tube headers on two years ago. I put the stock one back at first and discovered that on idle it fell out of closed loop. Then I put a heated one in and it operates very good. Take care as to avoid air leakage in front of the O2 sensor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by black_89_vette
What are the benefits of heated O2 sensors?
I have an 89 with one O2 sensor, what benefit would it serve me going to a heated or would 2 hook up?
I have an 89 with one O2 sensor, what benefit would it serve me going to a heated or would 2 hook up?
A heated 02 does just that, keeps the 02 at 600 F or higher so the engine remains in closed loop at idle. My heated 02 died a week or so ago and I had to re-install the stock one. I can only tell that the system is going into open loop at idle by monitoring Diacom. The idle isn't negatively effected.
Unless you're running long tubes, there's be no advantage in using a heated 02 and, no you can't run two. Your ECM isn't set up to read two 02s.
Well, you might be able to run two if you rigged a toggle switch to be able to switch from on 02 to the other but I don't see what advantage that would give other than for information purposes. The NASCAR boys do something similar with their back-up ignition systems.
Jake
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 4
From: Milan
Originally Posted by JAKE
The need for a heated 02 is that when long tube headers are installed, the placement of the sensor causes it to fall below 600 degrees F at idle. When this happens, the system goes into open loop.
A heated 02 does just that, keeps the 02 at 600 F or higher so the engine remains in closed loop at idle. My heated 02 died a week or so ago and I had to re-install the stock one. I can only tell that the system is going into open loop at idle by monitoring Diacom. The idle isn't negatively effected.
Unless you're running long tubes, there's be no advantage in using a heated 02 and, no you can't run two. Your ECM isn't set up to read two 02s.
Well, you might be able to run two if you rigged a toggle switch to be able to switch from on 02 to the other but I don't see what advantage that would give other than for information purposes. The NASCAR boys do something similar with their back-up ignition systems.
Jake
A heated 02 does just that, keeps the 02 at 600 F or higher so the engine remains in closed loop at idle. My heated 02 died a week or so ago and I had to re-install the stock one. I can only tell that the system is going into open loop at idle by monitoring Diacom. The idle isn't negatively effected.
Unless you're running long tubes, there's be no advantage in using a heated 02 and, no you can't run two. Your ECM isn't set up to read two 02s.
Well, you might be able to run two if you rigged a toggle switch to be able to switch from on 02 to the other but I don't see what advantage that would give other than for information purposes. The NASCAR boys do something similar with their back-up ignition systems.
Jake
If I remember right, there is a bung on these headers not so far from the engine. (close enought to be heated to 600°F)
Why not using this location to place the stock non heated O2 sensor?
The problem is related to the fact that this bung is on a single collector (I don't remember the cyl. #- I think is the 7 one...).
-Beppe-
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 2
From: Champaign, IL
St. Jude Donor '05
There will be no leaks on this system even if the entire Borla system ends up needing to be welded to the long tube headers.
I bought Hooker 2151 long tube headers and there is no o2 bung.
I thought my 92 had an o2 sensor on each side I'll double check.
If the heated o2 sensor means I can put the sensor on pipe after my headers so I don't have to grind and weld on my coated headers it would be really nice. It sounds like the general consensus is that this would be ok. I was just worried about the computer getting an accurate reading from the sensor. The other factor is that with my headers ceramic coated inside and out the heat should be retained inside the exhaust pipe does this make sense?
if anyone has a part # that would be lots of help
thanks,
Joe
I bought Hooker 2151 long tube headers and there is no o2 bung.
I thought my 92 had an o2 sensor on each side I'll double check.
If the heated o2 sensor means I can put the sensor on pipe after my headers so I don't have to grind and weld on my coated headers it would be really nice. It sounds like the general consensus is that this would be ok. I was just worried about the computer getting an accurate reading from the sensor. The other factor is that with my headers ceramic coated inside and out the heat should be retained inside the exhaust pipe does this make sense?
if anyone has a part # that would be lots of help
thanks,
Joe
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 8,181
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From: Santa Maria, CA
Let me just add for the L98 + ZF transmission owners:
Consider moving the heated O2 sensor over to the passenger side collector. Way more room over there. An extension harness will be need to be made(easy). Frees up access to the slave cyl .
Consider moving the heated O2 sensor over to the passenger side collector. Way more room over there. An extension harness will be need to be made(easy). Frees up access to the slave cyl .
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
ToyC4, you definitly have 2 O2 sensors. You will also definitly need Heated 02's. There is a bunch involved in this but I also have a 92 with Hooker 2151's and Heated O2's.
You gonna need to install your own relay for the Heated O2's to work.
I would also suggest taking the turn on lead for this from the fuel pump. I can also show/tell you how to do this.
It should be OK to put the O2 a little bit further back as long as they are heated.
Have you installed your 2151's yet? Here is my how to install them on a 92: How-to install 2151's on a 92
I'm not a fan of the Copper Gaskets anymore I like the Felpro 1406 now.
You might should go ahead and drill the O2 bungs into the collector. I know that sucks but I don't think your gonna have much room for them further down the pipes.
You gonna need to install your own relay for the Heated O2's to work.
I would also suggest taking the turn on lead for this from the fuel pump. I can also show/tell you how to do this.
It should be OK to put the O2 a little bit further back as long as they are heated.
Have you installed your 2151's yet? Here is my how to install them on a 92: How-to install 2151's on a 92
I'm not a fan of the Copper Gaskets anymore I like the Felpro 1406 now.
You might should go ahead and drill the O2 bungs into the collector. I know that sucks but I don't think your gonna have much room for them further down the pipes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 6
From: Winchester Ontario
Well, I have an 89 with one O2 sensor using Hooker 2149's. I have no problem going into closed loop. I verify this by running DataMaster.
So, it seems that a heated O2 sensor would do me no good.
So, it seems that a heated O2 sensor would do me no good.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,521
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From: West Islip New York
Originally Posted by black_89_vette
Well, I have an 89 with one O2 sensor using Hooker 2149's. I have no problem going into closed loop. I verify this by running DataMaster.
So, it seems that a heated O2 sensor would do me no good.
So, it seems that a heated O2 sensor would do me no good.
BUT, if you don't like sensing the exhaust from only one cylinder and want to move it further down the exhaust stream to read an entire side, then you need a heated 02.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 2
From: Champaign, IL
St. Jude Donor '05
Victor - I've read your how-to, you're actually the reason I went with the 2151 headers. The engine is out right now so the install should go smoothly although I think the engine will need to go back in before the headers are bolted on.
Looking at your install pics it looks like you welded your bungs on the inside of each collector in the center? I was going to have Jet Hot weld in the bungs for me but wasn't sure where to put them (where they would clear everything). I was thinking I'd have to put everything on the car and then figure it out lol.
Let me know what parts I need to buy as far as the o2 relay and lead - tying into the fuel pump lead makes sense. I still need to buy the heated o2 sensor's too if anyone knows a part number.
thanks,
Joe
The engine is out right now so the install should go smoothly although I think the engine will need to go back in before the headers are bolted on. Looking at your install pics it looks like you welded your bungs on the inside of each collector in the center? I was going to have Jet Hot weld in the bungs for me but wasn't sure where to put them (where they would clear everything). I was thinking I'd have to put everything on the car and then figure it out lol.
Let me know what parts I need to buy as far as the o2 relay and lead - tying into the fuel pump lead makes sense. I still need to buy the heated o2 sensor's too if anyone knows a part number.
thanks,
Joe
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 11,043
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From: San Jose Pat Tillman - American Hero
I don't know if it's just a coincedence or not, but it seems as though most of the people who've replied thus far are driving earlier C4s (80s). I just installed Exotic Muscle LTs on my 96LT4 - do I need to think about using these heated O2 sensors? As far as I know, everything seems to be running fine. How would I know if it were in open loop at idle?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,295
Likes: 4
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by ToyC4
Victor - I've read your how-to, you're actually the reason I went with the 2151 headers. The engine is out right now so the install should go smoothly although I think the engine will need to go back in before the headers are bolted on.
Looking at your install pics it looks like you welded your bungs on the inside of each collector in the center? I was going to have Jet Hot weld in the bungs for me but wasn't sure where to put them (where they would clear everything). I was thinking I'd have to put everything on the car and then figure it out lol.
Let me know what parts I need to buy as far as the o2 relay and lead - tying into the fuel pump lead makes sense. I still need to buy the heated o2 sensor's too if anyone knows a part number.
thanks,
Joe
The engine is out right now so the install should go smoothly although I think the engine will need to go back in before the headers are bolted on. Looking at your install pics it looks like you welded your bungs on the inside of each collector in the center? I was going to have Jet Hot weld in the bungs for me but wasn't sure where to put them (where they would clear everything). I was thinking I'd have to put everything on the car and then figure it out lol.
Let me know what parts I need to buy as far as the o2 relay and lead - tying into the fuel pump lead makes sense. I still need to buy the heated o2 sensor's too if anyone knows a part number.
thanks,
Joe
Cool
, Good choice on the Headers, I have the O2 bungs welded in about 5 in back from the collector on the outside or with the O2 sensor plugging in towards the motor and the wire pointing out towards the wheel. I will do some homework and get you the part numbers you need. The relay you can ick up from radio shack. I will also supply you with a diagram that Nathan Plemmons made which makes this really easy. Feel free to email me with any questions!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,295
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From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by ToyC4
this forum rocks!
The relay you need is a 12v power source which emits a switched 20amp source. It will have 4 input wires. Once you see the diagram this will be easier. The first wire comes from your fuel pump turn on lead. I can direct you which one to use I just need my car in front of me. The other 2 are the negative and positive 12 volt source. I'm sure you know where to find these. and the last will be the new hot wire to the O2 sensors which will also need their own 12v positive and negative.
I would also suggest you get the wiring harness GM sells with the O2 sensors. This will allow you to interchange the new Heated O2 very fast later down the road. I / Nathan can also get you a part number for that.
Its not hard you just need that diagram. I'm really pissed they got rid of that notes section. I had a bunch of good stuff (Part Numbers, etc) in there.
