Fluids??
Finally, I am wondering what is the BEST (regardless of cost and convenience) fluid to use for the following:
1) Motor Oil
2) ATF fluid
3) Gear oil
4) Pwr Steering Fluid
5) Brake Fluid
6) Coolant/additive (like 40 below, RP synth antifreeze additive)
7) Grease
Thanks for any information you might have,
Jeff





Here in BR, you'll also be able to find it in stores.
As long as you use a synthetic fluid for the things you listed, you'll be fine. Coolant additives are not necessary unless youre having a problem, in which case you should use the Redline fluid. Mobil 1 makes a synthetic grease to use as well.
It doesnt matter if you use the Mobil or the RP, it wont hurt the engine.
Finally, I am wondering what is the BEST (regardless of cost and convenience) fluid to use for the following:
1) Motor Oil
2) ATF fluid
3) Gear oil
4) Pwr Steering Fluid
5) Brake Fluid
6) Coolant/additive (like 40 below, RP synth antifreeze additive)
7) Grease
Thanks for any information you might have,
Jeff
1) Motor Oil (mobile 1)
2) ATF fluid (red line synthetic)
3) Gear oil (synthetic- I believe I used castrol)
4) Pwr Steering Fluid (I want to say I used red line again)
5) Brake Fluid (spec that GM syas to use)
6) Coolant/additive (like 40 below, RP synth antifreeze additive)Standard coolant\water mix and a bottle of royal purple or red line water wetter
7) Grease (depends on its use...I tend to go with a name brand I have seen in oil etc...)
Hope this helps!
Finally, I am wondering what is the BEST (regardless of cost and convenience) fluid to use for the following:
1) Motor Oil
2) ATF fluid
3) Gear oil
4) Pwr Steering Fluid
5) Brake Fluid
6) Coolant/additive (like 40 below, RP synth antifreeze additive)
7) Grease
Thanks for any information you might have,
Jeff
Well, ya gotta get your elements somewhere to build your synthetic molecules. True synthetics like Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil and others use PAO's (polyalphaolefins) produced in a chemical synthesis process most likely starting from methane. Since these molecules are truely chemically synthesized they are considered true synthetic.
There are some hydroisomerized oils labeled as synthetic like Castrol. These consist of hydrocracked mineral oils and not PAO, from a chemists point of view these are not synthetics. It's not that there is anything wrong with them, but they cannot be considered true synthetic.
I have 60K miles on my '96 and about 5000 of those miles are hotlaps on various racetracks with no problems. In the summer here on the track my Oil temp runs about 275- 280, I recently replaced the intake manifold gaskets and the inside of the engine still looked brand new. At Willow Springs Raceway the car still pulls 130 at the end of the front straight just like it did with 10K miles. Mobil 1 has proved itself for me.
Here is my list;
1) Motor Oil (Mobil 1)
2) ATF (Don't Know)
3) Gear Oil (Redline in the trans and diff)
4) Pwr Steering ( Redline)
5) Brake fluid (Motul 600)
6) Coolant/additive (No preference/Redline water wetter)
7) Grease (Mobil Synthetic)
For ATF fluid in my 92, I use Pennzoil Dexron IIE fluid as specified in the owner's manual. The 87 is a 4+3 and I use 75-90 gear oil and Red-Line synthetic ATF in the OD unit.
Gear oil is 80-90 in both cars with the correct amount of the GM Posi additive.
For PS fluid, both cars get Red Line synthetic PS fluid. The 87 seems to really like it for track days and autocross with no foaming.
I use the Ford HP fluid in my 87 and Castrol LMA in the 92. Again, easy to find and with the 87, I bleed the brakes after every track day and after every couple of A-X events.
Both my cars use ethleyne glycol (green) fluid and I have used Prestone for years and it seems to work fine. A 50-50 mix is good to -37 or so and I don't use any additives as both cars don't have nay heating issues.
For supension grease, a good quality grease from Chevron or Pennzoil. I do my own chassis lube so I get small tubes from the local parts stores.
One thing you didn't ask about was oil filters. Most filters are made by just a few manufacturers for the different brands on the market. Use a filter like Mobil-1, K&N, AC Delco or the the top of the Purolator filter. Just avoid Fram like the plague!!
Each brand has their own fan club.
The key is to pick the product that meets the manufacturers specifications.
If you change the fluids at the specified intervals, ( unless you are into extreme service conditions like racing) then you should be fine with all of the commonly available products regardless of brand.
As a note, the major brand synthetic products on the market today have better consistency and meet higher and tighter performance specs than were in place when our c4's were built. That's why it is difficult to go wrong if you stick with a major brand.
The questions I ask are:
1. Is this the right product for my car ( API/ SAE specs)
2. Does it cover where/how I drive my car ( low temperature? racing? etc)
3 Is it from a Brand I know and can trust?
4. Is the price one that I am prepared to pay?
I am a personal fan of Shell branded products because I know the most about them and totally trust them. However form availability and price I recently have ended up with Mobil for the engine and drive train with Chevron for the rest of the fluids.
Although they are often unnecessary , I buy only synthetic, because they give better low and high temperature protection and are designed with approriate additive packages to give extended drain intervals.
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