Hey guys, it's been a while since I posted. I've been away at college and I found a Chiltons manual on the 1984-1986 vette (the book was produced back in 85'). Anyway, my 85' vette is pretty much done for at the moment, prompting a complete restoration. Unfortunately, the engine block developed quite a bit of sediment build-up in the coolant passages. The engine is currently on an engine stand back home but my plan for when I return over the Thanksgiving holidays is to remove the internals, leaving the bare block. Then when the money is there, I'll have the block placed in a hot tank. The engine is a GM base 350 with iron heads that I'd like to replace with aluminum fast burn heads. I've heard nothing but good comments about fast burn heads and even "Vette" magazine gave them honorable mention.

All this aside: How much can I exect the hot tank treatment to cost? A cam swap would be in order seeing as how I'll have everything out of the block. Is there a certain cam that would work great with the fast burn heads? While everything is apart, would increasing the bore or stroke be a good idea at all? The funds aren't here at the moment, but when they are, having the knowledge will cut down the time to make dreams a reality. I was told that I shouldn't trouble myself with having the block stroked or bored because it is a two-bolt main but I did a little research and found that it's the four-bolt that everyone loves. Also, will a TPI manifold bolt pattern match the fast burn head pattern? Thanks in advance to all who give advice.

 

You need to remove all the freeze out plugs and maybe some other things before having it hot tanked. Pick up a copy of David Vizard's or Dave Emanuel's books on building SBCs. As soon as you get the block back from tanking and boring there are some things that you need to assure good rebuild results that are covered in these books.

Also, Vizard's book has some good stuff on cam selection as well as head porting. It's likely a good idea to stay with a non roller cam and add 1.6RRs to enhance valve motion intensity.

You need to check the bolt angles on the fast burns vs those on your TPI base. If the intake doesn't fit, there is now a TPI intake base for 23deg heads.

You should likely have it bored .030" over; if you want it stroked that will be some bigger $$.

 

also don't let the stuff rust while it's sitting

 

If your gonna go with better heads, go with a better intake. The TPI will pretty much strangle anything you do with the heads.

Another book to consider is John Lingenfelters.

Most basic machine work isn't very expensive. I doubt the full bill will top $250.00. Unless you need serious work, or, you go stroker.

 

I'm not sure how strict your smog laws are where you live, or if the fastburn heads have provisions for EGR. The original 85 heads have exhaust heat riser ports and the EGR uses them as the source for exhaust gas. If the fast burn heads don't have these ports you will have to change the exhaust manifolds to the 86 or later manifolds or headers. Many of the smog cops here in CA look for the center bolt valve covers on older cars and they fail the visual test. You may get away with that as 85/86 was the split years I think. Others may correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Thanks for the book reference. I do have John Lingenfelter's book on sb engines. I've heard of the gen 3 super ram manifold fitting fast burn heads. Boqus makes a good/obvious point on changing the manifold. Doesn't make sense if I upgrade cam and heads and leave the original intake on. I just didn't want to think about it because that means more money. Thanks very much 65Z01, the freeze plugs weren't even on my mind. Is there a certain tool that will make removing them easy, or is there a home remedy I can use to take them out? Iron is such a picky material, doesn't take much for rust to set in. How much does a bare block 350 weigh? I was guessing somewhere around 110 to 130 lbs.

 

You failed to mention what your intentions were for the car when the engine is done. If you are just going to drive it and want some extra ponies, your 2 bolt main block will work just fine. If you are going racing with your R.P.M. range going over 6000 regularly then get a 4 bolt block. Also, a balance and align hone are good ideas either way you plan to go.

 

The block is a 4 bolt main. I'm well aware that a 2 bolt would work fine. As far as going over the 6000 range...well...having an engine that runs out of breath by 4200 to 4500 gets a little tiring. Getting closer to that 6000 mark or a little past would be nice. But not before costing big bucks. Thanks for your input on the balancing. Might as well pull out all the stops if the engine is going to be gutted anyway.

 

Just had my 110K mile 350 freshened. Bare block is heavy, probably 150 to 200 lbs. Machine work wasn't that expensive for each thing they did, but when it was all said and done, wrote a check for $1400. That was cleaning, new core plugs, cam bearings, balance rotating assy, line hone, new pistons, rod bolts, resize rods due to new rod bolts, hone cyls .020 over for new pistons, clean and grind valves, new springs and retainers, new exhaust guides and gasket set. Oh yeah, clean and assemble short block. Wasn't done by the cheapest shop, but a good one. Cost for you will depend on what you find when you get it opened up.

 

Mash, you got a great deal done for $1400.00!!! But they put your motor together. Subtract a 800.00 at least for that labour.

If you are going to go nuts on heads, you might want to consider new ones... a built set may prove to be more cost efficient than guessing and building up an old set.

oh, check this out: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3508...inum-Heads.htm

 

I originally stuffed a crate ZZ4 motor in my vette to keep my daily transportation going, to get to work. Since then I tore down the original block just as you have done. With the crank out, and a bare block, I was able to lift the bare block and put it into the trunk of wifes corrolla. I took it to a quality machine shop, reccommended by many folks. It was hot tanked, and they removed and replaced the freeze plugs. (you could drill a hole in them hit it with a hammer and punch/chisel to get it out the hard way). The machine shop told me I should have it bored out (.030 over is standard). It had some plate put on top of the cylindersfor the boring and align honed. That meant I needed new pistons and piston rings, they told me. I could have re-used the rods, but he told it was just as cheap to buy new ones, as to have old ones removed and used. I had to have the crank resized .010. This meant I needed oversize bearings for the crank and the rods. They also installed the new cam bearings too. It was reccommended to put a new timing chain and gears (block had 112k miles on it). The only original is the block and the redone crank. For $1200. Then I bought a LPE 219 cam, and had the alum D113 stock 1990 heads redone by LPE with new springs and larger valves for $1900. Top that with the $1400 super-Ram, and $220 for new injectors, and $300 for new sensors, then the new plugs and wires and distrib cap and water pump and hoses...... it gets to many thousands really quickly. But now I have a replacement matching number block in garage to look at. Good luck in school and your project.

 

Bogus, the charge for assembly was about $200. That was shop labor for the extensive cleaning they do. Really wasn't much done to heads other than routine mtce for high miles. New heads are in future, but as car has been sitting for 3 years, want to get it up and running before getting too carried away. Still have to select a cam, am leaning towards a Comp Extreme Energy either the 262 or the one just under. Don't know just yet.

 

with the block bare all the machining shouldnt cost too much. dont forget to have them use a torque plate when honing its worth the price.
with all the heads i've looked at the fastburns seem to be the best for their price. The main problem with those heads is they use the new intake bolt patern(vortec style). so your 85 base will not bolt on these heads but you can find on that will at scoggin dickey at www.sdpc2000.com
as for what to do to the internals(bore, stroke) that all depends on what you want. The book on sb by lingenfelter is a good reference and should help you on deciding what to do.
all in all it comes down to what do you want to spend and what do you want out of it.
so many choices it just drives me nuts.