R23HTC

Anyone that's keeping up with the posts probably knows that I'm probably looking at a new motor. My questions are:

What's more cost effective?

1. Rebuild/Replace. Pros/Cons

It appears that the lower end is the problem.

2. Can you/or should you just do the bottom end without doing the top end.

3. What should I expect to pay for each of #1.

Any and all responses, opinions, or others welcome.

moffitt

If you have 140k on the top end it won't be aby better then the bottom end. I would replace the engine with either a new or low mileage engine.
Oh, what the hell do I know!

joalyons

Having rebuilt a few chevy small blocks (one within the last two years that I turned into an aluminum head, full roller motor) I would say, buy new from GM. In my opinion you cannot beat the price to power ratio of the ZZ4 motor. Im not sure how that matches with your F/I setup or emissions but you can check with any Chevy dealer.

GlockLT4

What's the best place to obtain a ZZ4 motor?

9C4403

I don't know about the lower or bottom end but i recently had my cam,lifters,springs, rods,rrockers,timing chain etc. replaced right there in Plano. "Horsepower store"!! Cost me around $750.00 parts & $600.00 labor. Not too bad!! Car runs GREAT!!! BYW saw your car on Plano Prkwy as i was leaving HorsePower Store. Don't know if you saw me, but the guy in the passenger seat waved!! Good Luck!!!

-=Jeff=-

Well,

Can you still get a crate LT1 from GM? or even the Crate LT4?

Before you decide want you are going to do.. New or rebuilt, you need to decide if 'stock' is good enough.. if not now is the time.. upgrade the cam port the heads, maybe even stroke it. Call MTI see what they say. you need to decide what you want.

If stock is fine and you never want to go faster.. try an get a Crate LT1 or LT4. At least with that you can wrap the old motor in plastic and when you sell the car you will still have the original motor. So tell us what you want first

R23HTC

At the moment, I'd like it fixed for free. Since that won't happen, as inexpensive as possible. I had high hopes, but this wasn't suppose to happen this soon. I do know what ever I do, I don't want to be put in the spot of having to do it over again or to were I can't modifiy if I want to.

mikey

i did the crate motor route the first time.. the LT1 crate, (no intake) was $1800 last year.. now it's $4800.. so this year i rebuilt the motor.. 383, forged internals, internally balanced.. la de da.. you can probably rebuild it for under $1k or you can just build the race motor that you're going to build in a year or two anyhow..

-mikey

Robey5

I guess that I am fearing the same sort of dilemma. I had a bit of an oil snafu not too long ago, and I am hoping that there was no significant damage done to the engine. It is a little louder at the top end...but I am not pushing it too much yet.

So: here goes. You want CHEAP; go with a used low mile engine that you can verify milage or go to a reputable (HA!) junk yard. You may get one for a somewhat reasonable price! ~I would budget about 1500 worth of space on your credit card to do the whole job by yourself. 1200 for a used lt1 is possible, if you are able to do your homework.
If you are in a rush, and have a good sized budget, buy a crate lt1 if you can get ahold of one. I would do the job yourself if you have the tools, and are not afraid to get dirty.

One last thing. If you are going the used route, do yourself a favor and replace the opti/plugs/wires prior to dropping the engine in there. I also would like to hear it run prior to purch(if I were you).
Ebay?

SPD DMN

Try picking up a used Camaro LT1 short block and rebuild your Vette block while you are still using the Vette. Or fix teh problem in th eexisting motor and be done with it. Not sure you can find very many LT1 crate motors anymore. The ZZ4 won't work for us without converting to TPI.

ChrisB

It depends what your goals are.

1) If you are happy with the way your motor is currently performing then simply replace it with a low mileage/new shortblock, and get a valvejob/surfacing done to the heads.

2) If you would like more power or more torque, this is a good time to build up your bottom end. You will have to work your head accordingly - since the really determine your actual power output (heads and cam) - your bottom end will determine what the potential will be though (heads will effectivley determine how close to that potential you are).
You can do it pretty cheaply - A cast 383 crank, 6" I beam rods, Keith Black, SRP, or Speed Pro pistons (200-400 bucks - most expensive part). Since yours is a vette you have 4 bolt mains already - just add in some bearings, rings, bolts and you are done. With a budget bottom end like that and a good set of stage II heads 400-430rwhp (depending on how agressive your cam choice is). You would also be good for up to a 150 shot of nitrous.

LouisBarton

I have a Jasper performance LT-1 long block in my 92. Love it. And it comes with a warranty. Wide range of performance options and I'm sure they could build a 383 for you as well. Give 'em a call at 1-800-827-7455, M-F and ask for their performance division. You'll be able to actually talk to the man who'll personally supervise your engine's build up. Better budget for other bolt on expenses and keep that Opti-spark dry during the change over or you'll be replacing that too and it's a budget buster.