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I saw an LT4 gain 5 rwhp between two dyno runs by doing this. I know they are supposed to help stop turbulent air, but so is the accordian thing in back of it. I also have a nifty difty do-nothing air foil in the throttlebody.
In theory is seems feasibly, remove the screens and more air can physically move through. Hell the 2002 Z06 MAF basically is a modified MAF.
Thanks, I'll do it this afternoon if I get more +'s than -'s.
Scorp, I've run mine back to back with and without a screened MAF. I can't say there is any seat of the pants difference. However, if it did gain 5hp you would not feel it from the drivers seat...dosn't mean it isn't a good thing.
I can't say there is any seat of the pants difference. However, if it did gain 5hp you would not feel it from the drivers seat...dosn't mean it isn't a good thing.
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Yeah I'm not expecting to feel anything at all, but every little bit helps. [img]http]//www.corvetteforum.cc/ubb/smile.gif[/img]
I think I saw something at www.c4vettes.com, which says to remove the two screens and make absolutely sure you clean the MAF device bore of all metal fragments from your screen removal activity but do not touch the wires on the inside of the MAF. You should get a 10HP gain by this. Check it out. Tom
Scorp] remember to use a razorblade and cut the adhesive between the plastic ring with the screen and the MAF so you can reverse it if ou need to.[/B][/color]
Eh... I'll just buy a Granatelli if I wanna reverse it.
You can also remove the cooling fins from the heatsink. These were added to the Bosch version by GM after some durability testing in death valley. Bosch never found them necessary when they did the original design.
Can tell you I did this a few years ago & after about 6000 miles the engine developed a stumble at part throttle. After replacing the burnoff relays, ignition wires and module, and setting the minimum idle speed about 5 times .... I bought a new MAF and the problem went away, put the modified one back in and it came back. I heard the screens do more than straighten the airflow, they attract/block small debree from hitting the wires. You'll also see the Block Lean numbers running around 132-138 (instead of 128). Controller is adding fuel which means the MAF is reading less air than is really going through it, I think...
I've seen lots of numbers on improved air flow, but I gotta tell you, I really don't think removing the screens will add much performance (you can feel or measure) and you run the risk of killing the MAF should anything hit those wires.
How much air does a screen stop? I'm not doing mine
My MAF is gutted and descreened and I haven't had any problems with it, plus it's the original sensor since the car was new. But I didn't see any loss or gain by doing so. Some have had good luck with it, and some haven't, as SuperL98 can attest to. It's your call...
I've had the MAF on my IROC fully modified (screens & fins gone) for 4yrs and on the Vette for 1yr with no problem and possibly a performance gain.
I believe the air flow numbers in TPIS "Insider Hints" so I modified the MAF. Of course the screens at least tend to protect the sensor wires, so I always run with an air rilter in place. Nothing will get through my K&N that wouldn't pass those screens too.
I think that as we push into the 350 HP range and above this mod becomes effective. If someone has a spare stock MAF for an '88 L98 I'll be glad to make some back to back runs and compare time slips.
Might be a simple answer to all this. Look at the MAF values with a scanner. Only an 8 bit output, I beleive, it can only read 254 grams/sec. If your full throttle runs read below this, don't expect gains by playing with the screens. Most stock to mild L98 read about 200 to 211 grams/sec at high rpms. My supercharged L98 hits the 246 grams/sec at around 5600rpm. Seams like the stock MAF has all the airflow it needs for most of us.
By the way, you can plot out the MAF values of a full throttle run, and see the shape of your horspower curve vs rpm. You can also use these to compare effects of modifications, by comparing these curves. After all it measures airflow, just like an engine dyno.
If your a real nut you can take the injector pulse width readings, your injector flow rate, and the MAF air grams/sec values, and figure your full throttle fuel mixture pretty close.
So if a LT4 gained power by removing the screen how much more power do the '92 and '93 LT1's have over the '94-'96 LT1's? The '92 and '93 have no MAF and no accordian hose while the '94-'96 do.
The screens are to straighten the air. On my Trans Am, there is a 90* bend right in front of the MAF, so the screens are needed (though many still remove them). On ours vettes, the path is straight. Take 'em out.
Scorp I removed mine when I first bought my Vette over 6 years ago and never had a problem. I'm not sure if I gained anything, I sure can't feel any difference.
There may be a gain to doing it, but the MAF is going to read less air than is actually going through. This will lean your A/F. On a stock car, I wouldn't mess with it. On a modified car, I'd switch to MAP.