U-Joint--- What are the problem Symptoms
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas tx
Hey guys the other day my car started making a small clicking sound in the rear driver side. I thought that it was maybe the brakes but I knew that I had replaced them about 7k with full metallics, I did remove the wheel and the brakes are fine. There are no loose parts and the rotor is good.
I the clicking sound first occurs after I go into reverse and start forward(this is the point of the first click) Then I noticed that when I went around hugging curves where the concrete railing allow me to hear the echo of the click and pinging sound. has anyone experienced this. I am assuming it is the U joint?????
I the clicking sound first occurs after I go into reverse and start forward(this is the point of the first click) Then I noticed that when I went around hugging curves where the concrete railing allow me to hear the echo of the click and pinging sound. has anyone experienced this. I am assuming it is the U joint?????
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 57,805
Likes: 23
From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
Jerry Watts told me if it's clicking, it's just the brake pads sliding in the caliper.
He told me not to worry. If it's a grinding noise than it could be something else.
In the last year, I've replaced the brakes, rear hub/bearing and all the U-joints and I still get the clicking.
He told me not to worry. If it's a grinding noise than it could be something else.
In the last year, I've replaced the brakes, rear hub/bearing and all the U-joints and I still get the clicking.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
I had a clicking in my rear at one time, turned out to be a missing spring clip from the brakes. If broke in half allowing the brakes to vibrate....put new one on and noise went away. Give that a real close look.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas tx
Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
Jerry Watts told me if it's clicking, it's just the brake pads sliding in the caliper.
He told me not to worry. If it's a grinding noise than it could be something else.
In the last year, I've replaced the brakes, rear hub/bearing and all the U-joints and I still get the clicking.
[/color]
He told me not to worry. If it's a grinding noise than it could be something else.
In the last year, I've replaced the brakes, rear hub/bearing and all the U-joints and I still get the clicking.
[/color]
That is strange... but I am sure that yours does not click while you are driving. Mine increases on high engine RPMS. I think that yours is the Normal brake caliper sound?
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, Tn. 37211 TN.
Why not just take the car to a shop and let them look at the u-joints? You have to raise the car to inspect anyway. Be sure that you go to a dealer or shop that will allow you to see the problem not one that doesn't allow you in the shop for "INSURANCE" reasons. I always feel like these guys are trying to hide something. 
My local Chevy dealer charges $65.00 per hour for diagnostics.
Have you ever tried to change out a u-joint?
Especially on a vetts rearend!
My local Chevy dealer charges $65.00 per hour for diagnostics.
Have you ever tried to change out a u-joint?
Especially on a vetts rearend!
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
From: southwestern Michigan USA
dont know anything about a "click" but if you get a definite "clunk" when you shift its a pretty sure bet that its the u joints, really not that hard to fix if you have the means to get the car in the air, parts are reasonably cheap...
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
92lt1,
My car had done the same same thing for the past 2 years! I have tried to inspect the U-joints while up on the lift but they seem to be pretty tight. Perhaps they are work and just cannot get enough force on them to make them move during inspection. But to sum it up they do exactly the same thing as yours. If you do find out what it is..please email me the solution...Thanks a million.
My car had done the same same thing for the past 2 years! I have tried to inspect the U-joints while up on the lift but they seem to be pretty tight. Perhaps they are work and just cannot get enough force on them to make them move during inspection. But to sum it up they do exactly the same thing as yours. If you do find out what it is..please email me the solution...Thanks a million.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 4
From: Youngsville North Carolina
I brought my 96 A4 LT1 in the shop last week for some repairs (Intake oil leak, 2 tranny leaks). I told them my car clicks when placing in drive and on the 1-2 shift. The easiest way to reproduce it is to just go from reverse to drive to reverse again while standing still. Anyway, they inspected the ujoints and said they were fine. They played off the noise as normal. I am waiting for a vette event so I can let others hear it and see what they think. It does not clunk or grind, but more like a clicking or popping sound. It is coming from the rear. I am at 65,000 miles. Seems like similar situation to what others are experiencing.
Kevin
96 CE
Kevin
96 CE
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville Fl
Ok...a clunk noise from rev to drive, park to rev or park to drive IS normal for a car with mileage, it is from play in the differential.
The click/clacking noise from U-joints will make you embarassed to drive, and it gets pretty loud if you let it go too far.
Clicking from a broken brake pad spring will only make a noise coasting, and will instantly go away as soon as the brakes are applied.
I think you have bad U-joints from your description.
The click/clacking noise from U-joints will make you embarassed to drive, and it gets pretty loud if you let it go too far.
Clicking from a broken brake pad spring will only make a noise coasting, and will instantly go away as soon as the brakes are applied.
I think you have bad U-joints from your description.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas tx
Originally Posted by BBA
Ok...a clunk noise from rev to drive, park to rev or park to drive IS normal for a car with mileage, it is from play in the differential.
The click/clacking noise from U-joints will make you embarassed to drive, and it gets pretty loud if you let it go too far.
Clicking from a broken brake pad spring will only make a noise coasting, and will instantly go away as soon as the brakes are applied.
I think you have bad U-joints from your description.[/color]
The click/clacking noise from U-joints will make you embarassed to drive, and it gets pretty loud if you let it go too far.
Clicking from a broken brake pad spring will only make a noise coasting, and will instantly go away as soon as the brakes are applied.
I think you have bad U-joints from your description.[/color]
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 0
From: Big D Tx
Cruise-In II Veteran
depending on milage, you might want to replace all of the u-joints now, and possibly the rear wheel bearings. the bearing couldve been part of the clicking problem too. i noticed when one of my rear bearings went out, it made noises when i turned a corner. when my u-joints started to go out, they were making a click from stop and a slight creeking sound as the wheel turned. after i replaced the half shafts' ujoints, the car felt very solid. all 4 of mine in the rear were going bad so it was very sloppy with alot of play in both sides. i think the u-joints may have caused the bearings to go out too.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
This thread has certainly been an education for me and cause for ponder. My 92 has 123k on the differential. half shafts replaced around 90k. Brakes on the rear are due in the next few monthes-have pads, money awaits George W's refund. Mine clunks not clicks at the low speed forward to reverse. I've only owned the car for two weeks so I can vouch for previous maintainance on the diff though two previous owners were both enthusiasts. From what ya'll have writtend so far, I have the following plan: Change diff fluid COMPLETELY via Mityvac and replenish anti slip additive next week. if not better, get brakes done. If not better, check for play in U-joints and diff gears. Maybe I get those 3.73's after all 
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 29,937
Likes: 22
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Cruise-In 1-2-3-4-5 Veteran
Still looking for anyone who's got a clue about my rear-end "POP!"
When I'm driving, and have to brake fairly hard, there is a very loud "POP!", only one, coming from right behind the driver's sear - left rear wheelwell. It sounds like something thumping a fiberglass tub - it's not a metallic sound.
When I load the rear suspension up with hard braking, it's "POP!" sometimes followed by a softer pop or two, and I can feel it in my butt. Repeated hard braking sets it for a while - I can go BRAKE (POP!) BRAKE (Pop!) BRAKE (pop!) BRAKE (quiet), but when I accelerate away, it will be back at the next hard stop.
When the car is put up on a jack, or on a lift, when the weight comes off the suspension, something unloads with the same loud pop. But I can't find it (I haven't had a shop go looking for it yet.)
I have absolutely no unusual tire wear on my left rear tire. I was rear-ended at a traffic light about a year and a half ago, just had to get my bumper cover repainted - she hit me square on the license plate a low speed.
The black paint is flaking off of the body bracket that mounts the upper and lower control arms on the left side, but the paint is not flaking off on the right. But all of the bracket bolts and spindle bolts check tight with a torque wrench.
Anyone?
When I'm driving, and have to brake fairly hard, there is a very loud "POP!", only one, coming from right behind the driver's sear - left rear wheelwell. It sounds like something thumping a fiberglass tub - it's not a metallic sound.
When I load the rear suspension up with hard braking, it's "POP!" sometimes followed by a softer pop or two, and I can feel it in my butt. Repeated hard braking sets it for a while - I can go BRAKE (POP!) BRAKE (Pop!) BRAKE (pop!) BRAKE (quiet), but when I accelerate away, it will be back at the next hard stop.
When the car is put up on a jack, or on a lift, when the weight comes off the suspension, something unloads with the same loud pop. But I can't find it (I haven't had a shop go looking for it yet.)
I have absolutely no unusual tire wear on my left rear tire. I was rear-ended at a traffic light about a year and a half ago, just had to get my bumper cover repainted - she hit me square on the license plate a low speed.
The black paint is flaking off of the body bracket that mounts the upper and lower control arms on the left side, but the paint is not flaking off on the right. But all of the bracket bolts and spindle bolts check tight with a torque wrench.
Anyone?
