REALLY basic torque converter question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,817
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From: Hartland WI
REALLY basic torque converter question
Automatic transmissions have never been my strength and I know little (ok, almost nothing) about them.
So here goes - What is the significance of stall speed? When is higher/lower desirable?
Sorry - but I had to ask
So here goes - What is the significance of stall speed? When is higher/lower desirable?
Sorry - but I had to ask
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,345
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
"stall speed" is the engine rpm that the TC allows at full throttle starts.
A higher stall speed TC lets the engine rev higher at the start, putting it deeper into the power band. For an engine with all its power located up in the higher rpm range, this is a real advantage.
For stock motors, it just makes it feel like the transmission is slipping...IMHO.
Larry
A higher stall speed TC lets the engine rev higher at the start, putting it deeper into the power band. For an engine with all its power located up in the higher rpm range, this is a real advantage.
For stock motors, it just makes it feel like the transmission is slipping...IMHO.
Larry
Team Owner
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higher stall is desirable when your torque peak is at a higher rpm, close to the torque peak is where you want to be
For L98s the torque peak is low, so 2000-2200rpm is desirable, whereas the LT1s is up higher so for optimum 1/4mi times the stall needs to be 3000 or higher.
But for a street driven car the stall should be kept below about 2600 or it'll feel really weird.
For L98s the torque peak is low, so 2000-2200rpm is desirable, whereas the LT1s is up higher so for optimum 1/4mi times the stall needs to be 3000 or higher.
But for a street driven car the stall should be kept below about 2600 or it'll feel really weird.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,817
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From: Hartland WI
Thanks - That makes sense - at least to me. Since I plan to keep my engine basically stock and am more into solo/auto-x type stuff than drags I guess I don't have to worry about the TC either. Good to know.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: SE NY
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What year Vette do you have?? I think the early TC were around 2,000rpm and later ones about 1,500rpm.
I had a 2,000rpm installed in my '88 and it feels stock for normal driving but does launch a lot harder. I have a 3,000rpm TC in the IROC and didn't want one that "loose" for the Vette.
For auto X you might consider a TransGo shift kit with a manual valve body setup, if you don't mind doing your shifting manually on the street too.
I had a 2,000rpm installed in my '88 and it feels stock for normal driving but does launch a lot harder. I have a 3,000rpm TC in the IROC and didn't want one that "loose" for the Vette.
For auto X you might consider a TransGo shift kit with a manual valve body setup, if you don't mind doing your shifting manually on the street too.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Hartland WI
Originally Posted by 65Z01
What year Vette do you have?? I think the early TC were around 2,000rpm and later ones about 1,500rpm.
I had a 2,000rpm installed in my '88 and it feels stock for normal driving but does launch a lot harder. I have a 3,000rpm TC in the IROC and didn't want one that "loose" for the Vette.
For auto X you might consider a TransGo shift kit with a manual valve body setup, if you don't mind doing your shifting manually on the street too.
I had a 2,000rpm installed in my '88 and it feels stock for normal driving but does launch a lot harder. I have a 3,000rpm TC in the IROC and didn't want one that "loose" for the Vette.
For auto X you might consider a TransGo shift kit with a manual valve body setup, if you don't mind doing your shifting manually on the street too.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
